RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Quick glance around I can't seem to find this broken steering linkage "piece."

Anyone know the part number and the best place to buy one? Thanks for any help!

it's p/n 6255. There are a few on ebay but definitely not cheap.
If you don't mind aftermarket, you might find a better deal.
like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Steering-Cranks-For-Team-Associated-RC10-6255-Dhawk-Racing-DR-920038B/201533862346?hash=item2eec5ab1ca:g:QvcAAOSwnHZYb6GY
You'll want to fit a servo saver with those.

Or, you could just hammer something out of some scrap aluminum and paint them red like these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Trick-Universal-Steering-Kit-010-RC10-Red-Fox-Red-HotShot-Red-Prince-VTG/174247923032?hash=item2891fc4d58:g:GJoAAOSwnAJekhFJ


jk

I'm scoffing at 25 let alone 55 Maybe I should just pour my own. One wall crash cost $25 hobby is still going strong! Then the Chinese ones will arrive in about 2 months.

I hear ya. Parts for these cars are becoming rather scarce and expensive.
Anyway, I've ran into a similar problem recently.
I needed a set of bellcranks for a very basic runner car I'm building and the only set on hand was broken - just like yours.
So I re-made the part from aluminum.

You can upgrade to world's parts or a nice rack unit from factory works. It's one of those parts it needs an upgrade once you start breaking the stock parts. You can find lots of used steering parts on ebay too, which is pretty much where we are for the most affordable solutions now that the supply has been shut off.

Figured out another (potential) solution for us. Cleaned up the original part by gluing it back together and sanding, stuffed part into warmed (soft) clay, placed a couple dabs of hot glue so I could extract the original part from the clay, mixed and poured liquid plastic into mold, extracted part in 15 minutes, cleaned up mold lines and installed. The plastic material threaded better than expected. Only time will tell....

Awesome!
I've seen this done before and always wanted to try it myself.
"Liquid plastic", is this two-part epoxy?
Anyway, please let us know if it works?

One of the first and best tuning parts in the 1980s for RC10 I got was Team Losi aluminium bellcrank. It shipped with steel axles (or is it a "post"?, forgive my english) for bearings, and also with steel 8-32 screws to bolt those on. Then you had to get some bearings/oilities (same size as on front wheels). Then put a Kimbrough servo saver, and never have trouble again. Last year I completed a whole day race with my Edinger using this same old setup and some cheap stock servo without any breakage.

Houge made a similar bellcrank but made from plastic (ABS?). I've got this on my Houge car, but the problem it has that you can easily overtighten the plastic axles so they get "swollen" and ruin the bearings. I've used an additional nut to first secure the screw to chassis, then only hand tighten the axles on top of them. This setup is also durable with a servo saver. Never broken anything.

World's car bellcrank looks like an exact copy of the Houge one, but made from harder plastic (nylon?). I've no experience with these yet as my World's car is still waiting for assembly in the box.

Finally, I've also got Dhawks racing aluminium bellcrank in one of my cars. I would recommend that only if you cannot find anything else. It has metric screws that appear to be close enough to 8-32 but I don't know. Also the screws/threads itself are the axle for the bearings, it feels kind of sloppy/slacky.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 22, 2020 1:27 pm Awesome!
I've seen this done before and always wanted to try it myself.
"Liquid plastic", is this two-part epoxy?
Anyway, please let us know if it works?

Liquid Plastic that I used is "Task 8", which mixes 1:1 officially. Will update when I get some use on it.

Here is a 3D model of this part that I posted on Thingiverse-https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4541684. No idea if this part will print correctly. I ordered 3D printer yesterday. Can't wait to test it!

EDIT: Prints ok.

New member, so I'm a little late to this.

But if the 3D printed ot cast pieces don't work out for you, I have a few laying around in my spare parts box. If needed, I'd be happy to mail you one.