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I have been giving some thought about doing an RC10 runner build, picking up parts slowly over time. There are a ton of used chassis on Ebay that say buggy truck chassis. When I tried searching on here it said the words were too common to do a search. Hopefully you don't mind me asking a question that has been answered a million times. Are these chassis interchangeable? Some are gold, some are black. Both A stamp and B stamp are available. It would be a runner so which stamp would be better for me?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Yes they are the same for the most part. Early models will not have holes drilled for the stealth transmission, A stamp. B and C stamp will be drilled for it. There are some other small changes with battery tray screw holes but overall the truck and buggy parts will interchange.

Thank you. i guess I will check out the B stamp chassis as that will give me the most options as far as fitting a transmission. This will probably come together over a couple of years, so I don't really have a set plan. I still have a lot of research to do to decide how I will roll forward.

It looks like the gold pans for sale are all A stamps. Running a black chassis is no big deal, but I like the look of the gold one. Would the 6 gear transmission hold up with a brushless system? Most likely 17.5, but could go to 21.5 if it seems to overwhelm the suspension like my Tamiya re-re's. I won't be racing, just running at the park down the street. Thoughts?

6gear will be fine on a 17.5 brushless system.

I know it's about obvious, but better safe than sorry for an RC10/T beginner: the "chassis" is really two parts together... the "tub" and the nose plate. If you Q is about the tub only, then you got the answer already Please remember the Truck plate is different between both vehicles, the truck's is narrower and accomodates longer front arms. you can still mix and match as the parts will bolt on no problem, but if you mount normal buggy arms on a truck plate, the track will be really tiny.

Now - to confuse you even further, there were some longer buggy arms which were purposedly designed to be mounted on a truck nose plate, but this is probably a bit too early in your RC10 journey to bore you with that

show us your project when it starts!

all the best
Paul

Thanks for that bit of info. Is there a way to figure out which type of chassis is which?

I don't really have a build plan. I figured if I bought a chassis(just the tub) I would be starring at it all the time to keep me motivated to keep buying parts. My financial situation sucks so this would be a very long, slow moving build. If AE still made re-re kits I would be having a hard time choosing between the Ultima kit I will be getting soon and an RC10 kit. I'm just starting to look at parts because I would like to have an RC10 to drive as well. It's the car that changed everything, I have to experience it for myself.

if you have a black or gold rounded tub, it will fit either buggy or truck. there have been 4 revisions, A, B, C, the re-release which has no stamp. all are essentially interchangeable with only very minor differences. the biggest difference is the A stamp does not have the stealth transmission holes, however they can easily be drilled and countersunk. there are templates that can be found relatively easily.

I misread Lonestars post. I thought he was saying the chassis tub was skinnier, but he was talking about the nose plate. Some of the gold tubs available have been drilled for the stealth trans. I'm having a hard time deciding what to do. Piecing together a runner will end up more expensive, but will be spread out in small amounts. Finding a roller would be cheaper, but I need the money beforehand. Maybe it's time to start playing the lottery

Buying a good complete roller will be more money up front, but will pay off with not having to source parts one at a time. Which you know will be more time consuming and costly. But hunting individual parts will get you exactly what you want if that's the route you end up going. It's kind of like buying a sport speed controller back in the day only to pay more later for one with no motor limit. We've all been there on that one. Or going for the sport kits (when they still made those) and upgrading over time vs the team model. It's a shame prices have become so outrageous on parts. As you've mentioned though this is not a "hurry up and get it done" build which will help in parts hunting. Daily searches on ebay will pay off with some patience.

I put together a Tamiya Sand Scorcher over a 2.5 year period a few years back. There is no way I would have owned one otherwise. I am disabled so money is tight, but a little here and a little there is easier to handle. My cars are from the cheaper end of of the Tamiya line. Ghetto is how I roll

It's not ghetto, it's cost effective. And it took me about 1.5 to 2 yrs to get my T5M nitro conversion together. Mostly limited parts availability for what I needed. Get what you can when you can, for as cheap as you can.

Last night I won an auction for a parts lot to start my RC10 runner project. I need to order a set of hardware to get things going. This will probably be a long term project, but I will end up with a car set up the way I want it. I can't wait to get started.

At one time, one of my 10T's had an A stamp chassis and 6 gear. It was pieced together from leftover items from my buggy builds and spare truck parts.

It was my basher for a while. I later collected the parts to build it correctly and then used the chassis and trans to build another buggy.

My plan is for a long arm buggy with a stealth trans. I will have to get a template and drill the chassis as it is an A stamp. I figure if I have to piece it together I may as well do it exactly as I want to. Black arms, gold shocks, Jelly Bean wheels(maybe dyed black). Should be a fun little park runner and will look great, IMO.

I just ordered a hardware set from Team KNK. I'll be able to put together the parts I have so I will be even more motivated to get the car together.