B6.1D v. B6.2 for stock any major differences?

[bozack]

So a local place is selling the B6.2 but I found somewhere online that has a 6.1 for a lot less, thinking of building a stock setup and wondering if there is anything major I'd miss out on, figure I can use the money saved on the kit on better electronics since I need all of that as well.

Thanks

[Lonestar]

So a local place is selling the B6.2 but I found somewhere online that has a 6.1 for a lot less, thinking of building a stock setup and wondering if there is anything major I'd miss out on, figure I can use the money saved on the kit on better electronics since I need all of that as well.

Thanks

only a few minor updates from the 6.1 to the 6.2

you defo want to know whether you're comparing apples to apples and make sure you compare D(irt) to D(irt) or C(arpet) to C(arpet) - now THESE are different.

if the same, then if the discount on the 6.1 is solid, I'd recommend the 6.1...

[bozack]

only a few minor updates from the 6.1 to the 6.2

you defo want to know whether you're comparing apples to apples and make sure you compare D(irt) to D(irt) or C(arpet) to C(arpet) - now THESE are different.

if the same, then if the discount on the 6.1 is solid, I'd recommend the 6.1...

Thanks, the site says its the 6.1D model and the place has been around forever, I wanted to go local but the difference out the door is over $100 between the two which I figure I can put to new electronics. I read that the rear hubs on the 6.2 are newer and they have screw holes for mounting a fan as well as a small wing for the front....I wonder how many actually mount fans for their motors and if this is an issue for 17.5 turn motors.

[duckhead]

only a few minor updates from the 6.1 to the 6.2

you defo want to know whether you're comparing apples to apples and make sure you compare D(irt) to D(irt) or C(arpet) to C(arpet) - now THESE are different.

if the same, then if the discount on the 6.1 is solid, I'd recommend the 6.1...

Thanks, the site says its the 6.1D model and the place has been around forever, I wanted to go local but the difference out the door is over $100 between the two which I figure I can put to new electronics. I read that the rear hubs on the 6.2 are newer and they have screw holes for mounting a fan as well as a small wing for the front....I wonder how many actually mount fans for their motors and if this is an issue for 17.5 turn motors.

The transition from B6.1D to B6.2D is minor in comparison to the B6.1 to the B6.2.

Short list of changes:
- New Pro-line Body
- Front wing and mount now included
- 13g Steel Chassis weight included
- New rear arms, hubs, axles, outer hinge pins
- 27.5mm rear shock bodies versus 31mm
- Standard rear shock tower versus 'long' shock tower
- Included both layback and laydown transmissions versus layback only
- HTC outer slipper versus standard outer slipper

Is there $100 in value there really boils down to the driver. If you are a club driver, or someone who doesn't need to have the latest and greatest and capable of tuning then I would say no, it isn't worth it. IMHO, the only real benefit is the new arms as they are symmetrical so they can spare either side of the car in the event of a breakage. All of the other items can be added over time.

Front wing and mount can be purchase from a variety of sources. Chassis weight for stock racing (on dirt/clay) is just more weight that we as stock racers typically pay to shed, not add. My recommendation would be the FactoryTeam carbon fiber plate, it is light and being able to mount electronics on something that is removable is awesome. Rear hubs, yes the top mounted ball stud is nice, but again, not a huge improvement. Upgrade to the FT aluminum rear hubs instead when ready. Shock bodies, and transmission housings are surface specific. HTC slipper is a minor at best upgrade for modified racers. Look to get the FT Direct Drive if you are looking for an upgrade.

Hope this helps.

->Mark

[bozack]

The transition from B6.1D to B6.2D is minor in comparison to the B6.1 to the B6.2.

Short list of changes:
- New Pro-line Body
- Front wing and mount now included
- 13g Steel Chassis weight included
- New rear arms, hubs, axles, outer hinge pins
- 27.5mm rear shock bodies versus 31mm
- Standard rear shock tower versus 'long' shock tower
- Included both layback and laydown transmissions versus layback only
- HTC outer slipper versus standard outer slipper

Is there $100 in value there really boils down to the driver. If you are a club driver, or someone who doesn't need to have the latest and greatest and capable of tuning then I would say no, it isn't worth it. IMHO, the only real benefit is the new arms as they are symmetrical so they can spare either side of the car in the event of a breakage. All of the other items can be added over time.

Front wing and mount can be purchase from a variety of sources. Chassis weight for stock racing (on dirt/clay) is just more weight that we as stock racers typically pay to shed, not add. My recommendation would be the FactoryTeam carbon fiber plate, it is light and being able to mount electronics on something that is removable is awesome. Rear hubs, yes the top mounted ball stud is nice, but again, not a huge improvement. Upgrade to the FT aluminum rear hubs instead when ready. Shock bodies, and transmission housings are surface specific. HTC slipper is a minor at best upgrade for modified racers. Look to get the FT Direct Drive if you are looking for an upgrade.

Hope this helps.

->Mark

Hey Mark

Yes this helps a lot, I ended up ordering the 6.1D as there is no guarantee I will even race, I have a B4.1 worlds now and was going to go back to practice with it until I saw how limited parts were..stormer had one on their site so I grabbed it.

I had seen some reviews which listed a few of the differences but none were as complete as this

As for the factory team plate does the kit come with a metal plate? I guess when I get it I will see...but I will check that out.

With the 6.1D I was wondering if its possible to eventually upgrade to the symmetrical rear arms if they end up breaking? I will definitely look into the FT aluminum hubs when/if the are needed.

I also saw the new model is drilled for a fan mount for the motor but wonder how many people actually put a fan on their motor, I ran years ago and this is new to me and wonder if it even matters for stock?

[duckhead]

Hey Mark

Yes this helps a lot, I ended up ordering the 6.1D as there is no guarantee I will even race, I have a B4.1 worlds now and was going to go back to practice with it until I saw how limited parts were..stormer had one on their site so I grabbed it.

I had seen some reviews which listed a few of the differences but none were as complete as this

As for the factory team plate does the kit come with a metal plate? I guess when I get it I will see...but I will check that out.

With the 6.1D I was wondering if its possible to eventually upgrade to the symmetrical rear arms if they end up breaking? I will definitely look into the FT aluminum hubs when/if the are needed.

I also saw the new model is drilled for a fan mount for the motor but wonder how many people actually put a fan on their motor, I ran years ago and this is new to me and wonder if it even matters for stock?

Sorry I neglected to mention the fan mount as well. There are plenty of fan mount options for the B6.1 (including simple things like using an aluminum servo mount), but if you wanted to you could buy the B6.2 side rails with fan mount and they would bolt right up to your B6.1.

Regarding whether or not you need a fan, if you are racing a hot stock motor with a lot of timing dialed in then you will want to keep track of temperature, and the fan will help a bunch. Other than that scenario, a fan is not necessary.

[DirtRacer]

I know it's a little late but isn't there a difference in wheelbase length? I think the Dirt version is shorter than the carpet version

[duckhead]

I know it's a little late but isn't there a difference in wheelbase length? I think the Dirt version is shorter than the carpet version

90011 RC10B6 Team Kit
90012 RC10B6D Team Kit
90013 RC10B6 Club Racer
91650 Chassis, B6

B6 series all used the same standard length chassis.

90020 RC10B6.1 Team Kit
90021 RC10B6.1D Team Kit
90021L RC10B6.1DL Team Kit
90022 RC10B6.1 Factory Lite
90024 RC10B6.2D Team Kit
91765 Chassis, B6.1

All B6.1 series and the B6.2D used the same standard length chassis.

90023 RC10B6.2 Team Kit
91850 Chassis, B6.2 (+3mm increased length)

B6.2 used a longer chassis.

[bozack]

thanks, I ended up getting the 6.1D but it has sat in the box for the past year and I am thinking of just selling my RC stuff....parts are so scarce for the 4.1 and 10.2 its not even worth running them.