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Here is another project underway. I think this is an old Hyper drive H10. I am not sure but I think it was their first 10th scale pan car. A fairly nice car looking past the goofy tires stuck on the rims. Guess they wanted an off roader. It has a real nice Tekin G12c III, Hitec 645MG servo and B&R stock motor. Now for the bad. Someone locked up the diff with super glue, smeared some on the chassis and applied it to the pivots on the t bar assembly so it doesnt move. The battery layout is neat because it will accept a lipo just fine. It will be a challenge but I like stuff like this. I will reconfigure this back to on road. I would also like to convert it back to belt drive so I need to find a spur, pinion and belt.

Anyone have a copy of the assembly manual for the H10?
The body is really cool......I dig old Corvettes. I can work with this one. Best part is the protective over spray coating is still on it.

This will make an interesting restoration project. A little (perhaps a lot?) of acetone will dissolve that old CA glue.
A few of my racer friends bitd ran these cars.
The Greenwood Vette body is going to look great on this car - with some proper rear tires of course.
Looking forward to an update.
I was never really sold on the Hyperdrive belt drive system. It seemed like a solution in search of a problem.
However, I can understand why you would want to convert it back to belt drive; it's a Hyperdrive car so it must be belt drive.

I think I know why someone used half a bottle of CA on the axle. The threads on the end of the shaft are jacked up and the diff could not be tightened to any extent. So here came the super glue! My mission is to at least get the delrin hubs off the axle so I can soak the assembly in acetone. This may take a while....

Great project. Hate the kragle - hope you can beat it:)
- Limestang

Yuck, what a mess! I don't envy you but acetone is your friend now.
I'd recommend stripping it apart as much as possible then treat it like a tire removal job; prop the assembly above a pool of acetone in a sealed plastic container and leave it for a couple days. This should soften the glue enough to pull the rest of the axle assembly apart so you can do a proper cleaning job on each part.
If it all seems incredibly daunting, just imagine how great it's gonna look when it's finished.
I didn't realize before that the hubs are delrin. Very cool!

Doug-

Nice tip - I will try the sealed acetone container on the sub assemblies. I tried to drip the acetone on the end of the axle but it evaporates too quickly and turns the glue to gel and then re-hardens back to its original state. I did try soaking a cloth in acetone and folding it over the front axle servo mount plate and after 15 min, it removed the smeared on glue and did not attack the plate. Looks new now! I used some rubber gloves too and the dissolved glue gets all gooey and hardens up sticking all my fingers together and eats holes in the gloves!

The delrin hubs are neat but need some repairs. The right one has a screw hole that has cracked off and the left hub setscrew hole is stripped. I can drill an opposing set screw hole on that one and re thread. I am thinking on the right hub, I can drill 4 new holes between the old ones and re thread them as well. It would be cool to get new life out of them. It gives some character to the car too. Consider it "old battle scars".

I’ve never tackled anything like you have there but when I’ve used acetone to remove tires, I will leave a folded paper towel laying in the acetone bath in the sealed container for use in washing the softened glue from the wheels. As you know, you have to work quickly so having a pre-soaked towel ready to use the moment I remove the tire seems to be helpful. Every second counts. Many times, I’m not able to fully clean the wheel before the glue begins to re-set so I will place the wheels and a fresh paper towel back in the sealed container overnight and complete the job the next day.
Regarding the hub damage, I guess it depends upon what you have planned for the car. If it’s going on the shelf, you might consider a patch job on the broken wheel screw hole (epoxy perhaps) rather than drilling and tapping another set of holes. If you’re plan to run the car, then maybe it’s best to drill/tap a new set of holes. I say this without really knowing how rare these Delrin hubs are.

The other thing that breaks down super glue is boiling in water , again its a trick for removing tires but it can deform some plastics .20 min in boiling water and it might start flaking off , I think with what you have there it might be a case of trying everything ! Good luck .

Dadio,
I can give the boiling water a go, thanks! I rigged up a setup using a jar with acetone. I sealed the best I could with a rag and hopefully the fumes will soften the glue. Maybe overnight.

Finally the outer washer popped off revealing the next layer of this onion.

Very odd that someone stuck a Bolink/RJ Speed diff hub on that thing. They are a very “economy” diff. Not sure what the original parts look like but it should have alloy diff hubs and no thrust bearing on a car of that grade.

I was thinking that as well. Without a H10 assembly guide, I am at a loss not knowing exactly what originally came with this kit. I think the H10 is from 87 or 88. Pan cars from that era frequently used this style thrust bearing even on the early 10L's. I have a spare Associated wide axle and may install it, but that depends on the condition of the one that is currently glued in.

One of the members here that doesn’t post much is going to try to get me some scans to pass along. I’ll let you know

Well I haven’t got any scans yet but he did send a pic off Peters website showing a wheel-off view of the hub and by golly it does look like yours. Also you can just see the blue of the thrust. Looks like it is right.

Thanks for the pic! Yep - same thrust bearing. I appreciate the help and looking forward to the scans. It will help greatly!