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I recently came upon an original gold pan RC10 for $140. Is this a good deal?

It has all the arms, a rebuilt transmission, shocks (seller told me that they leaked), and a good differential.

However, the seller told me that I would have to replace the dogbones and outdrives, as well as the wheels. I’m also planning on installing modern AE V2 shocks (if possible).

I plan on installing in a XR10 Justock ESC, a Reedy 10.5T brushless motor (considering putting in a 13.5T to reduce stress on the transmission), a battery holder mod (to fit in my LiPo shorty), and a modern Savox servo. Is all of this possible?

What else might I have to replace?

I plan on bringing this gold tub RC10 (if I get it) to the desert during the summer instead of my RC10B6.1 FL, as I don’t want to ruin the bearings. I race my RC10B6.1, and I don’t want to mess it up by bashing it in the desert.

Hi. You should check eBay sold prices as a reference to compare against what you are being offered.
I don’t want to speak for others, but I think people here will tell you it’s worth what it’s worth to you.
Also you need to get a better picture of what exactly you are being offered. There were many original “gold pan” RC10 models. Not all have the same value or tech specs. Particularly pay attention to the transmission type in car; original six gear, or stealth.
Check out the thread on 25 years of RC10 history here on the forum to determine whether the car being offered is a very early sample which could increase its value.
Without this information I doubt anyone will be able to help you.
Post some pictures if you have them. That will help people determine what car you're looking at.
And finally, worn dog bones and out drives could mean it’s been heavily used. Many other components could be worn also.

very well said above.

the only thing I will add is that many of the new replacement parts are getting harder to find, and particularly, drive line parts like outdrives can be difficult to source, or you might be surprised at the value they have/price for them.

So I agree with above, get some pictures, information, and do a little detective work to see how much it will costs to get it running. You may find that there are other better deals out there on ebay, or at least go to the table with the knowledge that the car might not be worth as much as the seller thinks it is.

I decided to buy a different RC10 for $179 total (including shipping). The seller says it's an A-stamp chassis. Bottom is pretty scratched, as well as the front and rear edges. It has a 6-gear transmission, which sucks, as I want to use a brushless 10.5T motor at least. What can I do to this car so I can use that motor?

Edit: I'll be able to post more detailed photos once it arrives. The photos shown are what the eBay seller took. I can provide more images from the seller if needed.

I am not seeing the pictures. You may be adding them to your post incorrectly.

See this thread for help:

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=86&t=16337&p=469413#p469413

I actually managed to see the pics by right clicking and opening in a new tab.

Anyway, the car actually looks very nice. Yes, it's scratched up underneath, but the rest of of it look good. Suspension arms, shocks, wheels and other parts look very nice. Looks like it's missing the battery holder and the servo mounts. Tires look new.

Also, you'll find that, this being and A stamp chassis, it won't have screw-holes pre-drilled to mount a Stealth transmission. You can see these holes are missing in the underside photo. This chassis also does not have pre-drilled holes to fit batteries lengthwise in the car, but that may not be an issue if using lipos.

Judging by this, the wide front A-arms, and the front shock tower, you likely have an early Championship Edition RC10. But someone else may know better.

Championship Edition RC10s came with bronze bushings I believe, so you may want to consider purchasing a set of ball bearings.

What bushings? For the wheels, or just in general? Do you know a part number and the quantity I'd need?

Also, I'm thinking about buying a stealth transmission and drilling myself. Any drilling tips? Would the current 6 gear transmission be able to handle a 13.5T Reedy brushless motor?

The bearing set is #6905.

For 6 gear transmission, you would need at least new idler gears from the re-release, the original white ones will not probably last very long.

Thanks for the info! Before I start ordering, do you know if the ASC6805 rear re-release wheels will fit?

I'm buying an Associated front wheel conversion I found somehow. Do I have to use the ASC9688 front wheels, or can I use any front wheels?

lazyfortress wrote: ↑Tue Mar 17, 2020 9:08 pm What bushings? For the wheels, or just in general? Do you know a part number and the quantity I'd need?

Before ordering, check if the front wheels and the rear hub carriers have bearings or bushings, and, if you are up to it, check the gear box too. The previous owner may have already installed them.

lazyfortress wrote: ↑Wed Mar 18, 2020 10:14 pm Before I start ordering, do you know if the ASC6805 rear re-release wheels will fit?

These are for 3/16" axles and older buggies have 1/4" axles. You need to check first which you have (most likely 1/4"). There was a conversion kit #6802 but that's probably impossible to find now, individual parts may be still obtainable.

The RC10 arrived today, and I’ve provided more photos.

What really sucks is that the spur gear is 54T, not 71T like the re-release RC10 has.

The wheels are weird. The axles up front are smaller than the rear axles, not all the same like my B6.1. I don’t really know where to start with the restoration.

Sorry if I’m asking too many questions, but what do I need to mount modern wheels on my buggy? All of the conversion kits are sold out.

Is there anything I can do to change the spur gear to 71T?

Edit: I also already ordered the bearings. Kinda wish I hadn’t lol.

That looks like a great buggy. Not sure why you'd want to change the wheels already if those tires look new.
I'm not an expert, but a 71t 32p spur would probably be huge. All you need is a 32p pinion. Your spur gear looks super clean, almost unused.
I'm not sure what your expecting from this buggy, but why not just put a brushed, or mild brushless motor in it and see how it goes.
Other than that, it doesn't look like it needs a lot of work.
I would open the gear box to make sure it's all good in there, but if you don't want to, just make sure it's turning freely and run it.

Oh, and if you have the bearing set, put those in there.

Hi, I would advise against converting to rere wheels as its really a bottomless pit of cash and they have issues. It is way easier/cheaper to get JC racing wheels.

As far as spur gear goes you need need to decide on what you want to run 32dp or 48dp, either way you need either pinions or spur. 71T 48dp spur for 6 gear is too small your gear ratios will be wrong and cause overheating, you need 81T, available at Amain. If you dont already have 32dp pinions this is your best bet.

As far as running the 10.5 with a 6 gear... If its on a track with jumps you will need to reduce the speed and punch with the transmitter.
Bare in mind the 6 gear maxed out with 17 turn motors back in the day once SCE cells came out in 1988 and people started putting in hotter winds that's when the fun stopped and people started breaking idler gears, black idler gears came out much better but....

If you are just bashing tone it down a little to be safe.
I advise you to either pin your diff rings or glue them with either epoxy or loctite 270, cyano is better than nothing. make sure your diff does not slip, any slipping will kill the diff really quickly.