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Hello Gang,

I picked up this RC10T last week on eBay. I'm looking to get it running as a driveway racer, nothing special. I'm not sure what you guys can tell me about it. The arms are black, do you think they have been replaced? The rear axles have universal joints, not the regular dogbones, (1/4 at the thickest part where the pinholes are. Is it possible that this truck is a (team Truck) release? The fronts axles are 3/8". Are there any other ways to I.D. this truck?

I'm looking to upgrade to Lipo's, adding the hex hubs for modern wheels, and going brushless if you guys think it won't tear up the gearbox. I could really use some help converting to hex. I have done some research but the links for the parts needed are all out of date or not working at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm looking to blow the doors of my neighbor's kid's drift car next door, he said he has never heard of an RC10 anything...

Many thanks,
Salty

Yes, you have a later Team Truck .
Hard Ano shocks and Universals are a dead giveaway.

I am not a big Truck guy but I thought there were still plenty of truck tires to fit those stock rims (I think???)
As far as power upgrades and your Stealth trans goes, it's all about adjusting the Diff and Slipper properly.

Plenty of guys on here running old RC10's with modern gear, just give them some time to chime in.

nice score bud, you dont need hex conversion plenty of tires and wheels available also stealth trans can handle 4.5t brushless I would run something along the lines of a 6.5 - 8.5. Front axles should be 3/16 rears are 1/4" universals.

What kind of motor are you planning on running? I am building a 10T for a similar use, and I'm planning on using up a small stockpile of vintage brushed mod motors (all 10-14 turn range) with lipo. Right now I have a 10x3 and an old soft case lipo I got in a parts lot and I'm waiting for the stealth and motor plate to show up to complete the build. I like the idea of running old brushed technology to hang with current brushless runners in the 'hood.

AustinZ wrote: ↑Tue Sep 03, 2019 4:01 am What kind of motor are you planning on running? I am building a 10T for a similar use, and I'm planning on using up a small stockpile of vintage brushed mod motors (all 10-14 turn range) with lipo. Right now I have a 10x3 and an old soft case lipo I got in a parts lot and I'm waiting for the stealth and motor plate to show up to complete the build. I like the idea of running old brushed technology to hang with current brushless runners in the 'hood.

I’m still need to research motors, esc, and lipo’s.

Ok, after finding a very helpful and knowledgeable dude on FB I found all the info and parts I needed. Here is the part list and instructions I made.

Bearing: 3/16” x 3/8” x 1/8” metal, un-flanged. You will need 8 unless you have bearings on your front wheels, then you’ll only need 4 bearings providing they are the size mentioned. You can get them at AvidRC for a $1 each plus shipping. Their part number is R166ZZ

Dog-bones: Team Associated Part #7361, These are still available on associatedelectrics, but I found a set used for much cheaper on facebook.

Rear Stub Axles: Team Associated Part #9670. I found these are the best price on eBay.

Front Steering Blocks: Team Associated Part #9880. I found these are the best price on eBay.

Front Caster Blocks: Team Associated Part #7919. I found these are the best price on eBay. (Important note: this is super easy, please don’t let it deter you. You will need to drill out the holes on the parts that will connect with your existing arms. The pins on your stock RC10 are larger. In order for these to connect to your arms you simply have to drill out the a-arm hole on each of the new blocks. Double-check your existing pin size but they should be 1/8”. Carefully run a 1/8” drill bit through the a-arm connecting holes on each new Caster Block, do not drill out the steering block holes, only one hole per Caster Block. This only takes a second and is very easy. Let me know if you have any questions about this. Again, you are not drilling any of your existing parts, only one hole on each of the new Caster Blocks

Outer Hinge Pin Set: Team Associated Part #9622. I found these are the best price on eBay. These pins are the pins you will need to connect the new Front Caster Blocks to the new Front Steering Blocks. You will only need two of the six pins that come in the set. These pins are not like the pins on the RC10 that use e-clips to hold them in place. They require a small screw. I bought a big bag of these for $5 on Amazon. I will include a link to them but if for some reason you don’t want to buy the pack I can send you a set for $1, within the US only, please. I will include a link with the instructions for the front assembly for the Front Caster Blocks, Front Steering Blocks, Front Axles. You will see the placement of the screws I mentioned in the instructions.

Front Axles: Team Associated Part #7854. I found these are the best price on eBay.

Wheel Hex Adapters: Team Associated Part #9883.

Lug-nuts: Team Associated Part #6943. You will need new lug-nuts for the new axles. The lug-nuts are 8-32 if you want to get them outside of AE.

I bought the fallowing wheels and tires on eBay to test out as they were cheap for a set. They are taller than the 2.2” wheels at 82mm without the tires and 107mm with tires. Some of you are asking if anything rubs on the tires and wheels and I all I can tell you is there is lots of room with these wheels. However, I don’t know how most SC wheels are made these days as I don’t have an SC RC. I can tell you these wheels have a larger opening on the inside than they do on the outside. This gives them a lot more room than is needed. You might want to check in with someone that runs SC trucks. https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-4ps-RC-1-10-Short-Course-Truck-Tires-Wheel-12mm-Hex-For-TRAXXAS-SLASH-Car/192839624616?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

These are the 18-8 x 1/8” screws you will need for to hold the new pins in place. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00918NQRQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I want to explain the rear axles a little more. It was first suggested that I get Team Associated Part #7378. The problem with these are they are hard to find and they are expensive when you do find them. I was told that the 9670 work as well but are a little longer. If you use the the 2 hex adapters that protrude on the back axles this fixes that problem. I opted to use them on the front like intended and picked up two black nylon washers from Ace that I placed between the wheel and the lug-nuts on the rear.

Here is a link to the frontend steering assembly instructions, please see page 4-5.
https://img2.associatedelectrics.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/SC10.2/Factory_Team/manual_SC10.2FT.pdf

Let me know if you have any question. Good luck!

I have a 10T that I converted to hexes. You are spot on using the front axle assembly from the SC10. If you just wanted to use the original rear universals, check with GoMachV on here. He runs Factory Works and I have previously purchased a set of hex adapters for 1/4" axles.

Associated has a sale on MIP CVD 7379 bones https://www.associatedelectrics.com/teamassociated/parts/details/7379-ASC7379-mip_cvd_bone/. I got 4 of them, but how to get the proper axle, 1/4 or 3/16 to match? I have new dogbones and the old dogbones for the runner, as my original universals Im only keeping for the restoration side of the build. Need the axle for the CVD side to help with the runner side.

Tell me more about the battery hold down setup pls

AustinZ wrote: ↑Mon Nov 04, 2019 9:22 am Tell me more about the battery hold down setup pls

Guy on eBay sells them just search rc10 carbon fiber battery tray.

I have one myself great product.