RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Ive been driving my T3 for a little bit now and like the B3 I love it! Matter fact my T3 is in almost like new condition compared to the B3.

The only issue I'm having at the track with high traction Clay is if anybody's been to lrh Hobbies the track is awesome the new layout killer but my truck looks up so well it just wheelies like crazy cuz the front end is so light and it unloads the front end and turned really bad I've heard about putting weights in the bulkhead I know all about that but I just bought a set of yellow 3 piece front wheels for that truck and was wondering if I use a 3 piece front wheels instead of the one piece would they be heavy enough to give that truck sufficient weight to buy tin and not unload the front end so easily I haven't seen that topic posted I was curious there still like one set left on eBay by the way

I was never a big fan of adding weight and I'm not familiar with your track but if you go up a spring rate in the rear it won't transfer so much to the rear lifting the front. If you have the springs to experiment with I'd go that way first. You can also try different battery positions. If you run a shorty pack and move it all the way forward you can do alot there but honestly theres a need for alot more information to get you dialed in we'd need before someone could nail down your wheely situation.

Also, if you are wheelying that bad you might wanna check your slipper before you're rebuilding the tranny too...

Todd

Thank you Todd for your response in both of the threads i started....

I will try the kingpin retention set on my B3 im sure it will work just asking what others have done in this situation

As for the T3... I have gone up in spring rates and am running red rear springs with 40wt oil ....still wheelies bit its been reduced a bit. It will still pick up when i smash the throttle on the main straight and in corners feathering the throttle will lift it enough to cause a sliding push but soon asni let off the front tires grip like glue and that baby is arching the turn like magic. I LOVE my T3 even more than my B3.

My shorty battery 100c 4600mah is all the way forward as far as it will go and let me tell you at this point I'm not even sure the truck is Roar legal as light as it is in stock form with that shorty battery it's amazing how like that truck is I love the way ot drives and my tires are identical front to rear jconcepts dirt webs brand new gold compound.

Believe it or not, my slipper is adjusted to slip a foot to foot and a halh out of the corner like the old days setting up my jrx-pro and LXT. I just returned after a 25-year Hiatus to find a 13.5 turn motor that I'm running brushless in this truck goes faster than any mod Motor I've seen back in the day... it's almost like it's not even a bad problem to have what I'm experiencing but I know I can go faster through the turns if I could just get the front end to stay a little more planted and I'm exponentially regaining my form every time I go and drive at the track it's so much fun again I'm really enjoying it.

Kids these days are spoiled with the latest generation of cars I mean driving my b5m drives like a Cadillac just perfectly hooked up Every which Way

Oh.....and i bought the same caster blocks i did for my T3 as I did for my B3 so if all goes well ill be herting the 25 degree caster setup on my truck too.

25 degrees has always been the hot setup at any track i used to drive at ...wonder why its not more standard?

If not already in use, you could use a low profile steering servo and dremel out the front wall of the Battery compartment. Then move the shorty pack all the way up to the servo.

Just be careful, I destroyed the mounting tabs of a servo once that way

Have you tried running a non-shorty pack? A longer battery might give the weight difference you need. I remember having to add weight in the front bulkhead when I raced my T3 in mod class. Also, where is you rear hub placement at?

Is there any way you could ajust your ESC so it won't wheelie as much? punchrate settings maybe? or that the power kicks in at a higher RPM?

Ill try reducing the "punch" setting and see if that helps, bear in mind i am running a 13.5 lt motor and hope to retain enough punch out of a corner to clear most "out of corner" sized jumps. I realize thats an ambiguous length but i think most of you that run on tracks have an idea on what i mean.

Btw i recently picked up a nice T4.1 and i am having a much more pronounced problem with the front end than with my T3....see new thread please.

You might try searching for an aluminum bulkhead for your T3. Forgot who made them, but the weight might help. Did you check the wheel base length?

As far as the T4, it has the 2:60 trans vs the T3 2:40 trans. So it will have more bottom end punch. Might try bigger pinion or smaller spur gear to see if it makes a difference. Also, check the front bulkhead. If it's black plastic, you can get a factory team blue aluminum piece to replace it. Again the weight might make a difference.

Im curious.....the stock setup for the rear arm mounts is 3* toe in and 3* anti-squat. I mistakenly purchased some 3* toe in and 0* anti squat mounts from Associated's web specials section bec I figured id need them some day annnnnd I was testing out my freshly rebuilt and broken in diff with ceramic balls and brand new rings. Dont worry I made sure to give it plenty of break in time every single time I made the diff screw tighter. Anyway I was driving on a brand new street smooth and tacky with my Trinity D3.5 13.5t motor which was moving faaaaast I didnt realize how quick the truck was approaching me and if I didnt lift my left leg I wouldve went head-on into my shin, I guess I didnt lift fast enough and somehow clipped the truck which didnt hurt me but got my T3 doing cartwheels from full tilt boogie. Normally I HATE driving my dedicated RC vehicles I like to take to the track on the street but needed to test my diff and get my slipper set and .....oops! I broke my left side rear arm mount which was probably already on its way out and bound to happen.

Given my thread and the issues ive had thus far.....would replacing my 3* anti squat mounts with 0* anti squat mounts further cause frustration or might it somewhat help my situation. I do he done a lot of reading on the effects of anit squat but some info is conflicting and/or confusing. I do have a problem with initial corner bite or lack thereof on brand new jcponcepts barcodes gold clay compound on all 4 tires, I have the rears mounted standard with the correct outside edge on the correct wheel and in fornt the same barcodes are mounted inverted so the recommended side edge is on the outside and outside is inside on both wheels and im not at a loss for front end traction WHEN there is weight being shifted to the front wheels to make them bite.

Would going from 3 degrees top 0 degrees anti squat help or hurt my truck setup? I can always add shims under the front or rear mount holes between the chassis to get some anti squat back.....just curious what you guys think.

PS for what its worth I know im new but I want you guys to know that I will ALWAYS try and read up as much as possible to educate myself before coming on to post a question and ill try to make my posts shorter in the future as well.

More toe gives more drive and tightens up the car, it tends to drive straight. Less toe frees up the back of the car.

More rear antisquat doesn’t let the car transfer as much weight over the rear tires and helps the car turn "rotate" better. Less antisquat lets the car transfer more weight over the rear and generates a little more rear grip. Less antisquat is also better for a bumpy track surface.

I know that there is a Tuning Guide for de B3 and T3. It is mentioned in a few posts on the forum. I'm sure that will answer your questions !

Tuning guides can be found on AE's website under each specific vehicle. Just look for the the instruction manual and tuning guides.