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Hey guys, I want to be able to crank the engine over without it starting. How do you disable the ignition on an 03 Suburban with a 5.3L?

Start the Burb every day, no problems, let it sit for more than 2 days and when it first starts it's got quite a bang/rattle. It only lasts a fraction of a second and it's gone, until it sits for 2 or more days and cold started again. I have a sneaking suspicion that the lifters are bleeding down and want to use this to verify the theory.

I have no idea on that car, but are you able to disconnect the spark plugs? Maybe there’s a fuse for spark plugs alone?

Pull fuel pump fuse

Bakauata wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 8:02 pm I have no idea on that car, but are you able to disconnect the spark plugs? Maybe there’s a fuse for spark plugs alone?

The problem is not destroying the CPU, or some other component, in the process. I know there is a way to disable the ignition safely, just trying to figure that bit out.

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 8:03 pm Pull fuel pump fuse

Another friend said the same thing, sounds like a safe way of doing it. I sincerely appreciate the input.

Sorry Halgar, but every time I see this thread I wanna ask "Did you try peein' on it?"

Don't click the link . . . Don't click the link . . . DAMMIT!!!! Why'd I click that link!?!?!?!!?

FWIW, peeing on it was the first thing I tried!

I used to have to do this as part of a testing process and here's a little trick that might help , if the key has a security transponder chip embedded in the plastic part of the key then this should work , wrap the plastic part of the key in tin foil ,baking foil,pie tray etc , this isolates the transponder from communicating with the sensor ring on the steering column , most cars will now crank over but not start as the immobiliser has not received a signal from the transponder , its a very simple thing to try and like as not it will work , if it does not work then it took little time or effort and was no loss.

RC10th wrote: ↑Sat May 04, 2019 8:03 pm Pull fuel pump fuse

+1.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good repair manual, Chilton, Clymer, Haynes, Even an online manual/resource would be nice. I'm not ready to tackle changing lifters by myself, but there are a number of other things that need attention that I can do.

The very best is the original service manual which is printed by helms. They have the best detail and troubleshooting guides, but obviously are pricey. Worth the the money though for tough issues.

You might be able to find the manuals as CDs or downloads cheaper.

What are you looking for information for? Engine/pcm?

Try to join a forum dedicated to your particular vehicle. You'll get tons of the most relevant advice, specific to your vehicle. If you're lucky, they will have links to download those expensive OEM service and parts manuals. I'm on a forum dedicated to each car I own and you won't get any better info than those places. I was able to download complete service & parts manuals for my Dodge Magnum (or the entire LX series, for that matter) on the http://www.lxforums.com site, for example.

Whatever you do, don't try to download manuals for free online, because no matter what search keywords you enter in your browser, the manual that somehow, magically EXACTLY matches your keywords will turn out to be a malware download.

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2019 7:10 am What are you looking for information for? Engine/pcm?

Well, I'm just about to tackle the brakes, and while this is a super easy job, I don't have the Torx wrench to break the front calipers loose and I have no idea what size I need to buy to do it, a good manual should have that in it.

As the title of the topic implies, I also want to safely disable the ignition and still be able to crank the engine, something that a good manual should have in it as well.

Minor electrical nuisances, such as the way the aftermarket stereo was installed, the dash gauges rattle upon start up which indicates that the actuator motors need to be changed out - apparently a common problem on this generation of truck.

I doubt that a Chilton-esque manual will be able to walk me through changing the lifters, but if it can I'm up for that too.

My computer geek is going to look for a PDF/downloadable manual, she's really good at finding stuff that the average person can't, so we'll see what she comes up with.

As for finding a vehicle specific forum, I'm considering that, and have tried to join a few, but they're so damned worried about spammers that they make it virtually impossible to join, let alone make a post. The last three sites I've tried to join I've not been able to get past the F'ing Captcha. Even if I can get past that, then I have to be approved to make a post, even after that there is still no means of making a post. Literally makes me want to take an axe to the computer when that level of stupidity is employed. I am a founder of Clodtalk, so I'm not new to forums, I know how they work, it's very aggravating when "security" controls are taken to such extremes that render the sites unusable.

Taking the vehicle specific forum to the next level, I'd love to find a mechanically inclined individual to help me take on larger projects, such as changing the lifters. Not unlike playing with RCs, it's more fun when you have a like-minded someone to play with, than playing with yourself . . . er, uh, BY yourself!

Halgar wrote: ↑Thu May 09, 2019 2:08 am

jwscab wrote: ↑Tue May 07, 2019 7:10 am What are you looking for information for? Engine/pcm?

I am a founder of Clodtalk, so I'm not new to forums, I know how they work, it's very aggravating when "security" controls are taken to such extremes that render the sites unusable.

Taking the vehicle specific forum to the next level, I'd love to find a mechanically inclined individual to help me take on larger projects, such as changing the lifters. Not unlike playing with RCs, it's more fun when you have a like-minded someone to play with, than playing with yourself . . . er, uh, BY yourself!

first point you made steers me clear of those pages. If it so hard to get to make a post there usually isn't enuf good info on those pages to help anyway.

and the second point

good luck with your endeavor Halgar!

Interestingly, there is a local auto club that has a shop and tools for rent (very reasonable rates), as well as knowledgeable folks on hand to help out with whatever you've got going on. At first blush, membership and shop fees would run me around $500, parts for a lifter change $200-ish totaling $700. Local shop rates are around $130/hour, 10 hours for the job, plus shop mark-up on parts easily makes this around an $1800 job.

I also just found out that another neighbor is a certified GM mechanic, so I'm willing to bet with his help the job would still be less than $1000.

Thankfully, I do not believe the lifter issue to be a pertinent problem. I don't have a ticking issue, it's a leak down over several days that creates a bit of a rattle on first start up. By the time you let go of the key, the rattle is gone. My current "fix" is to simply start the Burb for a few minutes every day to keep thinks pumped and happy, thus no leak-down, no noise, no mechanical issues. Long term I'll probably change the lifters, for now, I'm going with my "fix" and living with it.

5.3 LS, correct? I believe since they use a coil-on-plug type ignition that you should be able to simply remove the coils from the plugs, though there may be a security or safety feature that could prevent that... But it's worth a shot!