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I thought I'd start a new thread for this attempt restoration project. I'm only expecting a runner/basher out of this car.

I picked it up yesterday and gave quick description of what I found in the box here

Here are some further photos in better light:


Nice set of tires!
The servo saver and rod ends are much whiter than the other parts. They have obviously been replaced.
The front end is pretty beat-up. There is about 0.5mm play at the suspension mount on either side. The new cars I can compare to have none. But maybe it's OK?
Grease Lightning!
There also some play at the outdrive hubs. I'm dying to get into the transmission. So I'm going to start tearing this car down and post here with updates.

the ball cups and steering parts are a plastic blend, not just nylon, (or glass filled nylon), so they always look different.

that's a nice car to use as a runner. definitely break that down and rebuild as necessary, especially all that ugly gear grease.

looks like bushings, hopefully all the axles are not worn down.

jwscab wrote: ↑Fri Mar 29, 2019 10:11 am looks like bushings, hopefully all the axles are not worn down.

Yup. That has me a little concerned.

Just measured with a caliper: 0.185" between the bushings, 0.182" where the bushing sat. That's 0.003" or 0.08mm difference (my caliper is not this curate). There is a visible light when moving the caliper from one section to the other.

I will see how a set of bearing from another car sit on the axle and decide if getting new axles is in order.

Good luck with the build! I just rebuilt an A stamp for a runner as well and I'm loving it.

I have play in both front and rear suspension at various points, even with brand new parts. In fact, my brand new rear hubs and all control arms produce more play than my old original pieces. But since I'm not racing, I don't care. It bashes really well and handles fine.

Have fun!

SOS wrote: ↑Fri Mar 29, 2019 12:47 pm Good luck with the build! I just rebuilt an A stamp for a runner as well and I'm loving it.

I have play in both front and rear suspension at various points, even with brand new parts. In fact, my brand new rear hubs and all control arms produce more play than my old original pieces. But since I'm not racing, I don't care. It bashes really well and handles fine.

Have fun!

Hey, thanks! That’s the sort of encouragement I needed to hear.

Nice car; perfect for the task.
You'll probably want to re-hydrate the old nylon parts so they aren't so brittle.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 29, 2019 2:07 pm Nice car; perfect for the task.
You'll probably want to re-hydrate the old nylon parts so they aren't so brittle.

OK. I looked up the re-hydration matter and found information about boiling the nylon parts, but not the ABS or other plastics. So, I wouldn't mind doing this, but I have nowhere to source parts from if anything goes wrong. Which parts can I safely boil and which ones not?

It's safe to re-hydrate all plastic parts included with the kit but it's the glass-filled nylon suspension parts that will be subjected to the greatest stress. You can simply submerge them in a jar of water for a few days rather than boiling them (adding heat simply speeds the process). Either way, it's important to thoroughly clean the parts to remove all grease and oil so water can be absorbed. I've broken vintage hub carriers and steering blocks before learning about the advantages of hydration. It won't make the car invincible but it helps.

Thanks for the suggestion. I’m going to do it. I have time. And while the parts are soaking I have plenty of other stuff to look into; like the transmission and shocks.

I pulled the transmission apart today. It looked OK inside, no stripped or worn cogs. I did find a missing pin in the drive gear pivot, and a missing Teflon bushing.

There are a few transmission spare parts which came with the car, which is handy (epecially the felt seals).
There’s a couple of spares which I cannot ID. Anyone have a clue what the two marked in red below are? One bag has a gold anodized aluminum ring and two felt gaskets, the other has a very thin (metal?) rod and some folded instructions ( I guess I should just open that one).


I’m also thinking of leaving the bushings that came with the car in there for the time being. The hobby store that has some remaining RC10 spares is asking US$ 57 for the compete bearing kit for this car (see photo below). That’s just short of what I paid for the car itself. My wife will be traveling in a couple of months, so I could have her bring me a more reasonably priced kit, along with a few other spares and upgrades. The bearings are $16 + $5 shipping in the US from Avid.

That's a nice collection of spares although I have no idea what's in the two mystery bags.
Seeing that bag of bearings brings back memories. I recall that AE bearing sets were always very expensive. Today, I buy bearings from Avid.

You're about to embark on a pass-time that I've grown to enjoy. I like to buy old derelict RC10's (diamonds in the rough actually), pull them apart, scrub the nylon parts (warm water and dish soap) and get them soaking while going through the rest of the metal parts, sorting out what to keep and what will need to be replaced.

...and remember the good ole days.

After they're rebuilt, the nicer ones go on the shelf and and the others become new runners. I never seem to tire of rebuilding and running them. It's such a great car!

If you’re not worried about the bearings quality the Avids will do great, I have 2 types of Avids that are great but my old ass original associated bearings can smoke them.

The price is about correct for that bag of bearings I would jump on it.

Great project man.

Jake

Can anyone suggest how I should remove the “diff gear” from the “ diff shaft”?

The manual indicates the gear is simple press-fit onto the shaft.

EDIT: sorry just found this thread. This should have the answer in it.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=28674

I have always used two flat blade screwdrivers to pop the two apart, but you have to be gentle. It’s not on there all that tight.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sun Mar 31, 2019 11:13 am I have always used two flat blade screwdrivers to pop the two apart, but you have to be gentle. It’s not on there all that tight.

Great. Thanks. I don’t want to damage the plastic part.

This is what I use
Slip u-shaped part of wrench between bearing holder and diff tube.
Remove nylon bushing opposite the gear
Place gear end down.
Take blunt end of drill bit and tap the tube out
Chuck