RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi all,

Firstly, if this is i the wrong section, feel free to move it.

I've got back into RC fairly recently having raced an RC10 (among others) back in the 80's, so thought I'd buy re-re classic. I purchased a used classic that was a bit worse for wear but had lots of upgrade parts/spares. I decided to restore the classic back to original then see what parts I had left.

Here's how I got te car:



And here's the restored car:





And these are the parts I had left:

So, I've been buying some of the remaining parts and built up the stealth.




The plan now is to get the chassis and nose plate anodised black. Once that's done, I'll update the thread with the parts I've purchased and some build pics.

Thanks for looking and thanks for all the valuable info people have posted on the forum.

The restored car looks excellent and you have some really nice parts left over. Also, you appear to be very organized; I'm a bit jealous cause I'm not which is why I'll never post a pic of my messy work space. Welcome to the forums. I also raced at the club level in the late '80's and returned to the hobby in 2013.

Thanks for the welcome

Although the re-re classic isn't an original RC10, it's close enough to bring back a lot of my previously jaded memories of building and racing an original back in 1985 as a 13 year old

I hadn't been completely out of touch having aqcuired a 1/8 nitro buggy in 2004 and then a TT-01 & AE TC5 over the following years. It was only last year though that my interest re-ignited after getting the 3 cars above fully worked over and running.

This then brought back the urge to get a 1/10 buggy which was the only class I raced. Since this urge, I also bought the new Schumacher Cat XLS as I also raced an original swb cat.

Seeing all the builds on this forum has been a great inspiration for me a very helpful in choosing parts for next build.

Oh, I've just realised that the Dhawk caster blocks I have are 15° and I've bought the Worlds front arms, so take it I will need the 30° blocks from the worlds car to use the wide arms?

No I believe the wide arms will work with all caster blocks; 5 - 30 degree.
I still have my original XLS (recently restored), the chassis, belt and body parts from my swb car, and a new rere that will become a runner some day.
imho Roger Curtis and Cecil Schumacher are legends in RC.

So, thought I'd update this thread a bit...

Sorted through the rest of the left over parts, there's more wheels & tyres than I thought

These pics are the last bits from the RC10 Classic that I built...



These are wheels/tyres left. I have choice of original size or 2.2 all to fit 1/4" axles. (some jc front wheels with schumacher spikes not in the pic). As in the previous pic, included were the 2.2 rear conversion.

Now onto the parts I've purchased...

original gold shocks & Lunsford Titanium hinge pins.



Associated wide front arms & RPM rear arms.



Dhawk servo mounts.



Associated 2.2 wheels, still tyres to get for those.

I have all of the electrics...

Hobbywing Xerun V2.1 120A ESC, a choice of motors: Speed Passion 8.5 & 10.5, Turnigy Trackstar 10.5, a Futaba 2.4 2 channel reciever and a Savox 1258TG servo.



Tub & nose plate are at the platers as we speak so should be ready next week then the assembly can begin.

You've selected some really nice electronics. Apart from the Savox servo, I also have the exact same motors, ESC and Rx. The Trackstar 10.5 is excellent, the SP motors are a little down on torque (probably due to the small dia. rotor they use) but they will perform very well in a light car (2wd) and especially on a dry-slick track. I have the SP 10.5 in my B3 at the moment and it works very well and the run times are the best of all the motors I have tried.

Those rpm arms take the long rear hingepins. Pretty sure your set will have the short ones from the later style kits. Measure them up first but if you need longer ones you can call Lunsford and purchase them direct. You just need to give them the measurement you want.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Sat Jun 23, 2018 2:56 pm You've selected some really nice electronics. Apart from the Savox servo, I also have the exact same motors, ESC and Rx. The Trackstar 10.5 is excellent, the SP motors are a little down on torque (probably due to the small dia. rotor they use) but they will perform very well in a light car (2wd) and especially on a dry-slick track. I have the SP 10.5 in my B3 at the moment and it works very well and the run times are the best of all the motors I have tried.

Thanks for the feedback on the motors, I've briefly tested the SP 10.5 & does seem a bit low on torque, haven't tried the other two. I've used Hobbywing ESC's & Futaba recievers in my other cars and they seem very good for the price.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Sat Jun 23, 2018 2:59 pm Those rpm arms take the long rear hingepins. Pretty sure your set will have the short ones from the later style kits. Measure them up first but if you need longer ones you can call Lunsford and purchase them direct. You just need to give them the measurement you want.

Funny you should say that, I bought the hinge pins thinking they would fit the narrower rear arms but they actually have the longer inner hinge pins to fit the RPM arms. Looking at the Lunsford site, their Worlds kit LNS3011 use the shorter rear hinge pins.

Collected the chassis from the platers, it's made the scratches on the underside a lot less noticeable.







As this is going to be a runner I applied a carbon look skin...




Bit of trial fitting revealed I need to deepen the countersinks on the rear of DHawk bulkhead to fit the stealth. I'll do that tomorrow then start building up car.

Getting closer to finishing this up although I'm a couple of ballstuds short for the camber links and still waiting on delivery of the Associated shock rebuild kit that I ordered an age ago...





The J Concepts bellcrank needed 0.15mm (0.006") removing from the bottom shim to stop the bearings binding and I chamfered the inner edge of the RPM arms as they were rubbing the DHawk bulkhead and a little fettling in the arm mount area.





Everything else fitted without issue. I've fitted the 1/4" axles for now but will change over to the 3/16 axles at some point.

Looks awesome. This is going to be an incredibly nice runner! It's interesting how closely the ano matches the color of the Savox servo label. Really nice.
I wonder if it makes sense to somehow freeze the suspension hinge pins into the aluminum mount so that articulation occurs at the nylon arm rather than at the mount and perhaps prevent the aluminum from wearing. Maybe if you were to install a grub screw to lock the hinge pin, you wouldn't need to secure them with e-clips. I'm probably just over-thinking this.