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I need some help. There is an "A" stamp on the bottom chassis of the car. Is this a 6-gear transmission or could this be a stealth?
I recently changed the old electronics to a brushless Castle Sidewinder 4600 kv motor/esc combo and 2s Lipo. I ran into some problems with the gearing or transmission, not exactly sure. The car was only ran a few times with the brushless system. Attached pictures after the problem started. The spur gear balls look like they exploded. Diff ring was stuck to the spur gear. I tightened up the slipper and seemed to be a solution for a few pulls. I did nothing to the car after it sat for 20+ years. Only replaced the electronics and cleaned it up.

Recently replaced the diff drive rings, diff spring and nut. Cleaned everything. Also replacing with a new factory spur gear and diff balls. Any help to remedy the problem to be able to run the car with out any issues? Not sure if I should try to replace the transmission or any other parts. Is the motor to strong for the old setup? Maybe adjust the settings on the esc? Shelf the car and move on...?

updated pictures as of today 4/2/18 cleaned up and ready for new parts
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2r9so2e3mwdk0ny/AAAgmN2hsCLjGs5R0OohGJ6la?dl=0

pictures of problems after initial run
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l9e26gvro6ts0h3/AABPr8r9VbszKwglz6NqbBxya?dl=0

What grease did you use on the diff balls?

This one?

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2765&P=7

You have a six gear transmission which doesn't include a slipper clutch. You should use the appropriate grease that is meant for a ball diff and adjust the nut until the diff stops slipping under full throttle. If you use standard grease and the diff slips while running the car, it will overheat and could cause the problems you are seeing. Nice car, BTW.

Thanks for the responses. I'm not sure what grease was used since the car was sitting for 20+ years. Very well could have been for something else. I downloaded the manual and planned on ordering the Associated #6636 grease that you posted with a new spur gear and balls.

Also, you'll want to clean the diff rings very well if you intend to re-use them and their mating hubs. I use lacquer thinner (wear gloves, in a well ventilated area, away from flames, etc.) but other common degreasers can work equally as well. It's important to remove all traces of lubricant that may have been applied in the past. Once assembled, the diff should not slip. That 4600 is a pretty hot motor so you need to run the nut rather tight to prevent slippage; especially if you run on high traction surfaces.
Good luck and let us know how you fare.

I found a stealth transmission in good condition on EBay for $50. Would it be a better choice to purchase the stealth? Will the stealth transmission install without any modifications or extra parts?

the stealth trans would require new holes drilled in the chassis. Not super hard to do. Due to having a slipper assembly, the stealth can handle a lot of power if adjusted correctly, with the slipper acting as the 'fuse'.

that 4600kV motor is pretty hot, so you need to adjust the trans and be sure it's built just right. It will handle the power OK, but the diff rings and balls will be parts that can be easily damaged and need replacement, along with the spur gear if allowed to overheat.

As mentioned, do a proper lube of the diff balls and thrust bearing using associated lubes, the clear silicone for diff balls, and black grease for thrust bearing. Keep the diff as tight as possible, the more traction you have, the less time those parts will last. you may also want to consider doing the outdrive bearing mod, replace the felt seals with a 3/8" x 5/8" bearing on each outdrive, but you should also remove the inner bearing in the outdrive and replace with a spacer.

if you haven't, download the manual from teamassociated.com and review it.

I’m in the process of rebuilding my RC10. It started out life as a gold pan but I upgraded to graphite many years ago. My issue is the stealth transmission. With all the new Lipo batteries and brushless motors out there now do I need to upgrade the transmission gears to metal to handle the power and heat generated. And if I do where do I find a metal idler and diff gear?
Thanks!
Mike

no, don't need metal gears in order to run in a normal situation, ie, 2s, 7.4v lipo, motors down to 10.5 (or 8.5 if you know what you are doing). The slipper/spur setup from a B4 is a good upgrade that will help it live longer and give you a better slipper range.

The RC10 stealth transmission is "pretty much" the same as what is in modern cars, once you have upgraded to B4 clutch. All that changes is the gear ratio. This is a different problem, because you will need to run a larger spur gear to get your Final drive ratio to where you need it. You can safety run any motor in it.
Craig Drescher raced a 7.0 turn with a standard clutch at an EOS event back in 2013.

Thanks guys!
I was seriously sweating out the diff situation. I’m going to try the B4 set up as soon as I get my new electrics.

Here’s another question.
Is it possible to use the B6 rear wing mounts and wing on the 10 classic? Currently I have a Jammin Jay’s long shock tower bolted on and I know I’ll have to do some drilling. I’m hoping that if I can do this the wing mount will serve double duty as a wing mount and body post.

yes, that has been done before. there are towers from factory works and others that have the holes already drilled for a couple of positions.

Tag for reading later.

I am also thinking of going brushless. I’m just worried my transmission won’t be able to handle the power. I also have the older style 6gear tranny.

FYI I called associated today and they told me they don’t even have all the parts available for the 6 gear transmission. Which is why I’m on the fence about going brushless. Are aftermarket parts available for the 6 gear?