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I just got this new 6565 Stealth trans case yesterday, bought off of eBay. The plastic is different, a lighter color than the beige ones.

The cases have a severe warp, not cool at all. I'm really bummed out about this. I'll not buy a bunch of them in the hope of getting a good one.

(click the pic for full size)

Ah man, that sucks! Color is nice though

Wow

stupid Q: when you put internals in and you tighten it gently, does it bind? In other words, is it just cosmetics, or there is a true structural issue to it?

Thank you.

Paul

Just run a bead of RTV around it and button 'er up.

Lonestar wrote: ↑Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:30 am Wow

stupid Q: when you put internals in and you tighten it gently, does it bind? In other words, is it just cosmetics, or there is a true structural issue to it?

Thank you.

Paul

I'll try that today and report back.

If using re-re diff parts can you report on the diff movement/fit/slop/play?

Ive had older ones do that as well. They pull together. I would fire off an email to associated though and see if they will bin check them and send you “fresh” replacements.

RC10th wrote: ↑Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:46 am If using re-re diff parts can you report on the diff movement/fit/slop/play?

I have one set of re-re outdrives NIP. I don't have enough parts to build that diff yet, they are on order. I can give you a report on that soon.

The trans cases do pull together as @GoMachV says. I've used all new parts (6580,9601,6570) and fresh Avid bearings. The diff outdrives are CPD aluminum. The screws are snugged up, no torque on them. As you can see, there's still some gaps in the case that can suck up dirt/dust. The bottom gap may close slightly once bolted in a chassis. There's no drag or notchy feeling at all in the tranny, smooth. It will get even better once broken in.
So all hope is not lost

It still sucks (dust) but it will rotate

Thanks for the extra info!

not uncommon. all of the ones I've ever seen have some bit of gap here or there. as long as the two halves mate and the inner lip doesn't hang you should be good. That inner lip provides most of the sealing.

I declare this one buildable. Now to check out the Rit Dyemore Sapphire Blue dye. If it's not a good shade of blue, I can always go with black over it!

Try screwing the halves together and put it in boiling water for a little while. Let it cool while it's still screwed together. Maybe put a bolt through the out drive holes too.

I've done that with a warped Kyosho trans case before and it helped.

RC10th wrote: ↑Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:46 am If using re-re diff parts can you report on the diff movement/fit/slop/play?

Hey mate, I got the parts to build the diff this morning.. built it

I've got 0.005" play, side to side. I'd say that is acceptable.

was hoping to see the Rit sapphire blue to see if it was a good color for you. That alloy should really pop on blue. So far it looks great anyway as is...which is odd for me since I literally swapped out any white parts for black parts on any gt's I ran but I like the white tranny cases or the zebra look as some say about it.

You can get just about any color of blue from that sapphire blue by just how much time you leave it in. If you aren't going full on Sapphire try to keep a time of how long you keep it in there down to the seconds and you can get a pretty uniform color through different parts at different times.

Anyway, keep us posted

Todd

Sadly, I didn't get around to doing the dye pot this weekend. I have some more of the new 6565's coming so will have a dye party then. I'll be doing some "science" to get the color right... shooting for a bright blue. Thinking to do a peroxide bath to get the case "whiter" on one of them as a test.