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I went to local track yesterday to get some parts and really got bitten by the driving bug. And none of my RC10's are still driveable and all are waiting for parts so I decided to build my RC10B2. I will retire it as soon as I get something else ready. But anyway, the car is in pretty good original shape and this time I didn't take it completely apart. Basically I just refilled the shocks and replaced the wheels with 2.2" B4 wheels.

I'm quite excited as last time I was at the track is almost 20 years ago. I remember my last day driving as I broke my Optima Mid Custom Special and Parma Euro Panther(both almost vintage already back then) on the same day and called it quits. So it's been quite a while.

Here's the car before I did anything with it.

RC10B2 by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

RC10B2 by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

And here it is waiting for electronics. I have all but ESC so I hope I can test the car soon.

RC10B2 by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

RC10B2 by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

RC10B2 by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

I have, as always, some questions. B4 wheels seems to have different offset compared to original ones, mostly with the front wheels. Is it still OK to use those or should I try to find something else?

I'm totally lost with all the modern electronics. I have 13.5T motor and previously I only drove 27T brushed ones. This will probably be a lot quicker but what would be good starting point for gearing? I have 84 spur and various pinions. Slipper is original but I will use that as I have nothing better.

Really nice car *thumbs up*

I'm totally lost with all the modern electronics. I have 13.5T motor and previously I only drove 27T brushed ones. This will probably be a lot quicker but what would be good starting point for gearing? I have 84 spur and various pinions. Slipper is original but I will use that as I have nothing better.

If you are running in 0 Boost mode (Stock Racing) you want a final drive ratio of around 6,5:1. I think thats not possible with a 84 Spur as it would mean you have to use a 31 pinion gear (84 (spur) : 31 (motor pinion)) * 2,4 (drive ratio b2) = 6,5 (final drive). If you are running with boost you are looking for a final drive ratio of ~9,6:1. However all that depends on the size of your track, use a smaller motor pinion for tighter tracks. Hope that helps

regards

nice car! What body is that?

The B4 rear wheels have less offset. So you would need B4 rearhubs as well. This again means you have to use the B4's (longer) CVD's as well.
The front ones should be just fine if I'm correct.

In the end the width of your car should be max. 250 mm.

OK, thanks for info! I'm not sure I know what boost means but I suppose it is timing. My ESC is or will be Hobbywing Quickrun 120A so I don't know if it has programmable timing. I suppose not. But I will start with gear ratio between 6,5 and 9,6 and see how it goes. I also have to go through my stash if I find smaller spurs. The track looked like it has limited traction and is pretty short so speed will not be an issue even with too low gearing.

The body is made by Hot Bodies. It's quite OK but I prefer the original B2 body. I have it also but it's pretty bad. I don't know how much driving this will see as some of the spare parts are really hard to get, at least front arms seems to be nonexistent. I have one extra pair but that's it. So I'm not sure if I want to put too much effort on the wheel issue. I'm sure my driving will be basically learning how to drive on the track after such long break so as long as the wheels turn freely I won't notice the difference.

Sorry i forgot to explain this. Boost is timing added in the speed controller dynamically instead of statically on the motor end bell.

Regards

I measured the widths and at rear it’s almost 250mm, maybe 248mm. At front it’s much narrower, about 235mm. I think I need wide front axles but don’t have any extra ones. And looks like I need to get the full rc10 front wheel conversion kit to get them as noone seems to have just the axles.

Front B3 arms and axles are available on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-Front-A-Arms-RC10-B3-ASC9107/372222830366?epid=1100417834&hash=item56aa35a71e:g:PEAAAOSwpw1aYCvL

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-RC10-T3-B3-Blue-Inline-Axles/232673205670?epid=1800162364&hash=item362c675da6:g:AZ8AAOSwQS1aNqYz

I changed the front axles to wide #7222 ones and went for a drive. With 27 brushed motor it was really slow but after so long break it was still fast enough. Hard to say how the car handled as my driving skills were totally lost. But as it now looks like I will end up breaking parts I think it's better to retire this car and start driving WC instead.