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I finally got these new cars at home and will start with the Graphite car. It is in very good condition but I still will disasseble it and rebuild with time. But first things first. It came with wrong wheels so I was wondering what would it take to fit rerelease world's car wheels to it. I have a lot of them so I would like to use them. I know it's 3/16 axles I need but what else and where to get the parts from? Or are there any other dished 2.2" wheels that fit with original axles?

RC10 graphite and worlds by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

I assume that since you already have other RC10 that these will be shelfers.

Converting to B4 wheels (rere worlds) is not a good solution the CVA are expensive and the shaft is too short. The front axles need to be changed to compensate the different offset.
The new axles are blue unless you find the kit ones that where plain.

There are 2.2" dish wheels out there for standard 1/4" axles IMEX made some.
There are a pair of worlds front wheels on ebay now, postage is kind pf expensive
As a place holder, while you hunt down the correct wheels you could either drill the B4 rears or settle for the JC racing 5 spoke wheels.

I bought a set of the JC Racing wheels. I really like them. They remind me of the old HPI Super Star wheels, which were one of my favorites.

I would like to make at least one of these a runner as I'm not sure I want to start collecting shelf cars. Graphite car has not been used much as the chassis is really good but it is still used so a little driving will not do any harm I suppose. If I decide to run this I think it's better to use 2.2" wheels but I prefer the look of dished wheels. For a shelf car I would need to find a set of original wheels and tires and I haven't seen those for sale in a long time. If I find original wheels, what tire choises do I have?

If I manage to find rerelease worlds car cva's, will they be OK or are they too short? And I don't mind blue front axles but where to get them from? They seem to be discontinued form AE.

Converting to B4 wheels can get complicated.

Front axles your need:

associated part 6801 RC10 front wheel conversion.

That was easy, the next bit is complicated.

For the rear axle you have choices.

Dogbones or CVA?
Dogbones you need: associated part 6802 RC10 rear wheel conversion. plus dogbones part 6370 x2.

Bare in mind the toe-in will now be wrong. original cars had 1.5 deg arm mounts and 1.5 deg hubs. for a total of 3 deg.
older cars had 1.5 deg mounts and 0 deg hubs.

ReRe have 3 deg arm mounts with 0 deg hubs.

Basically if your left hub has a big "L" on it. Its 1.5 deg. if it has nothing it is 0 deg.

arm mounts are not marked

Fun huh...

The CVA way you need. part 6371 CVA 3/16" axle.
plus hubs, 7364, plus arm mounts 6360 you still need bearings, crush tube and the nasty blue spacers. 3977 (3/16 x 3/8 x1/8" bearing) 7377 crush tube. 9608 axle spacers.

Now you put all that on as in the worlds ReRe manual, and you find out that Associated made the axles too short. The proper way to fix is using B44.2 rear centre axles which are the correct length (2mm longer) part 9911 (discontinued).

There are other ways to do this using 3/16 x 3/8" flanged bearings gets around the hub issue, but those bearings you will need to get on ebay.

You just spent 100 euros because you will never find everything in one place and the shipping just keeps adding up.

Trust me learn to like the 5 spoke rims!

Mark Rogers (top Ausi driver) posted a photo ( Facebook, RC10 vintage mania group) of his RC10 graphite with 5 spoke wheels and it looks AWESOME!!! (sidewinder body helps!)

Schumacher do a few 2" tyres.

Wow, that's a lot of information! Thanks! I found a place form Austria that had almost all of those parts available so I think I will try the B4/rerelease wheel route. Only things they didn't have was 9911 B44.2 rear centre axles and 9608 spacers. But they had 6802 rear wheel conversion with crush tubes and bearings, so I took that. Best part was the pricing as it was only about 20 euros shipped as they seem to have huge discounts on rerelease parts.

But if this still fails I quess I have no other option than to start liking 5 spokes.

I spent this morning disassembling the car and next will whiten the plastic parts. They are much more yellow than my 1987 RC10 parts, but this came from California and I'm sure they have much more sun than we do up here.

Tell me that is not Awesome!!!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1909598162688446&set=gm.989416527893140&type=3&ifg=1

Here dish wheels action shot.

https://scontent-cdg2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/26961572_1910036252644637_729177001521552730_o.jpg?oh=5344d2b54b96059a4c2e89703c5d6fc5&oe=5B1C7783

TomiS wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2018 2:46 pm Wow, that's a lot of information! Thanks! I found a place form Austria that had almost all of those parts available so I think I will try the B4/rerelease wheel route. Only things they didn't have was 9911 B44.2 rear centre axles and 9608 spacers. But they had 6802 rear wheel conversion with crush tubes and bearings, so I took that. Best part was the pricing as it was only about 20 euros shipped as they seem to have huge discounts on rerelease parts.

But if this still fails I quess I have no other option than to start liking 5 spokes.

I spent this morning disassembling the car and next will whiten the plastic parts. They are much more yellow than my 1987 RC10 parts, but this came from California and I'm sure they have much more sun than we do up here.

Nice cars BTW Nice photo too, I need to learn how to do that

bluewormx wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2018 4:21 pm Tell me that is not Awesome!!!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1909598162688446&set=gm.989416527893140&type=3&ifg=1

It is awesome and seeing it makes me want a Team car even more. And Graphite version only, then my small collection of RC10’s would be complete. But I still like dished wheels more.

bluewormx wrote: ↑Sat Jan 27, 2018 4:25 pm Nice cars BTW Nice photo too, I need to learn how to do that

Thanks! That’s actually the only place in our house with enough light to get decent pictures so that’s why all my pictures are taken there.

I also found 9911 axles from local seller, they have 3 in stock. Are they really needed? I have already spent way too much on these.

I had to take a look on my worlds car driveshafts and they seem to have the same issue, on the spur side even more so. Is this even worse with rerelease parts? Could this be fixed with limiting schock movement (is it called droop)?

If you are going to race or run on a bumpy track your going to need to change the drive shafts to 9911. Reducing the droop helps,but you need some droop to land jumps properly without bottoming out.
The worlds car is probably not shimmed right. The cars with the universal joints came with about eight 1/4" shims you need to place two on each side of the axle. (Fig 98 in the manual)

I don't have the manual for worlds car but rerelease manual seems to be available to download so I need to print it when I get to the office tomorrow. But just in case anyone has extra original manual and box for worlds car, I'm interested.

https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/RC10/Worlds_Car/manuals_setups/

The original worlds car manual is there.

I think I'm following the same formula as with my previous project as this is in pretty decent shape. Only issue is that someone drilled a hole to the chassis between steering block holes for some reason. I think I will let it be as trying to fix it with some stuff may end up looking worse than it is now.

There is not much parts I need to replace but front arm mount are quite sloppy and steering blocks have some cracks. For a shelf car I probably would let them be but I may end up driving this after all. White plastics are in the jar right now so will be able to put this back together soon. I haven't found body yet but this should have Protech II if I'm not mistaken. This time I will try to paint it myself.

RC10 Graphite by Tomi Seppälä

RC10 Graphite by Tomi Seppälä

RC10 Graphite by Tomi Seppälä