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This is my latest project. I’m pretty excited to finally put this crazy idea that’s been stuck in my head for a while now

Not only is the chassis lipo compatible (standard or shorty) but it also retains the T plate styling that is simple and effective, as well as the stock shock and dampener assembly. Tweak screws allow you to balance the car. The front end can be as narrow as 7” or as wide as 8.5” by moving the plates in and out. The wheelbase will adjust from 9.4” to 10.5” with the same plates. Flip them over for half-increments. A standard servo fits well even at the narrowest position. I am working on a brace for the front end which will be nice for racers, but for bashers it won’t be needed. Jake brought up a good point too- it’s perfect for the drag racing crowd. The wheelbase and width adjustability makes it perfect for all kinds of bodies. The one change not shown in the built up pics is the bolt on bumper mount. In the shorter wheelbase modes it probably won’t be needed so it can be removed

I can’t wait to take it for a spin if it ever quits raining.

That is SWEET! A t-bar pan car with a standard form lipo center-mounted. Don't think I've seen that before. Should work perfectly in just about any racing class. Good job!!

Link cars are cool, but there are so many 10L’s out there that I figured it would be a simple and effective workaround for them.

simple and smart - I like it A bit worried about front-end solidity, though, with those bolted-on fixed "C-Arms"

The idea is to get the most compatibility and flexibility for bodies out of it. Anyone that wants to race has a much newer car This is just for parking lot bashing. The arm mounts are pretty tough. Joey will be testing some soon on the velodrome. we can always make fixed plates if the people want it to be more solid, giving up the adjustments.

Like it, interesting ideas!

GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 4:19 am The idea is to get the most compatibility and flexibility for bodies out of it.

Got it and I like it!

Very cool, always watching to see what comes out of Factory Works

Lonestar wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 3:49 am simple and smart - I like it A bit worried about front-end solidity, though, with those bolted-on fixed "C-Arms"

I thought the same thing. However, if it would clear the servo, you could attach a brace that spans the steering blocks. Just run longer 8-32 screws through the blocks and secure the brace with aluminum nuts. May require a washer or two under the brace to clear the servo.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 11:44 am

Lonestar wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 3:49 am simple and smart - I like it A bit worried about front-end solidity, though, with those bolted-on fixed "C-Arms"

I thought the same thing. However, if it would clear the servo, you could attach a brace that spans the steering blocks. Just run longer 8-32 screws through the blocks and secure the brace with aluminum nuts. May require a washer or two under the brace to clear the servo.

Actually, a brace will clear the servo - no washers needed. I've added a brace to my ole 10L. Of course, with a brace, you will sacrifice adjustable track width but I would assume one would be building the car with a specific purpose and body in mind. Anyway, as GoMachV has said, the design is likely sufficiently robust with or without a brace.

I guess where I went wrong is making two kits into one. I wanted not only Lipo compatibility but also an adjustable chassis like the old Advanced Engineering kits where the user could buy one bag of parts and have it fit most any body. I think the best way around this is to make one solid plate that spans side to side. Something that the user could still swap out easily. It would be sold in two widths, wide and narrow. You would run your stock upper brace if you want to (with longer screws and spacers to clear the servo). It would be a simple way to beef it up for people that are happy with no options

I wouldn't change a thing. Maybe add a 2-3pc adjustable front brace, simple straps you can bolt together at various widths as needed.

how does rear track width get adjusted? it looks like the left rear wheel is pretty fixed in location, does this mean your CG left to right moves slightly when run in a wide vs narrow config?

Width in the rear currently is just whatever kit you have. If your using a SS, it’s pretty easy to widen. Making a wide car narrow is harder

I’m making up some pod plates to adjust the width back there, but won’t be ready for a few days as I’m back on customer projects this week

GoMachV wrote: ↑Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:45 pm I guess where I went wrong is making two kits into one. I wanted not only Lipo compatibility but also an adjustable chassis like the old Advanced Engineering kits where the user could buy one bag of parts and have it fit most any body. I think the best way around this is to make one solid plate that spans side to side. Something that the user could still swap out easily. It would be sold in two widths, wide and narrow. You would run your stock upper brace if you want to (with longer screws and spacers to clear the servo). It would be a simple way to beef it up for people that are happy with no options

Wrong? Nothing wrong from my vantage point. I think the whole concept is ingenious. Anyway, you could certainly go with the single plate scheme as you've outlined above or maybe go back to the original design (with 2 "C" plates) and offer a top brace that has the same amount of width adjustability. OR, just go with the original design as it is. After all, no RC is totally indestructible. If you're ramming the car into curbs or light poles you should expect a few broken parts.

Just viewed the kit posted on ebay.
It solves the 'standard lipo in a t-plate 10L car' problem and at $79.95 shipped, I think it's a very good value. AND it's available just in time for Christmas.
Best of luck and please keep innovating.