RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Been waiting for along time to get my hands on one of these. Today was my day. It spent most it's life as the shelf queen of a hobby shop owner. It was displayed up off it's tires, so no flat spots, but age got the best of it anyway and they have some dry rotting as well as the on/off switch cover. Otherwise it appears to be super clean. Isn't going to need to much to restore it. It came with the original manual along with a spare parts tree with the front steering/suspension parts. The vintage Tamiya 1200mah nicad pack was a cool bonus. I don't know what the chances are of it still being usable, but it looks really clean---no corrosion or anything. The old school Futaba radio with it's original manual was also a cool bonus. I couldn't be happier. Hope you guys enjoy the pics

That looks really nice. what are you planning to do with the yellow body? repaint or keep as is?

I don't mind the yellow, but would like to be rid of the cheesy flame decals. Ideally, I would prefer it olive drab green, but overall the paint job looks pretty good. I may try to color match the yellow and just repaint the outside of the jeep and finish detailing the eyes.
I saw some reproduction tires on ebay. Anyone have any experience with these? Are they a good accurate reproduction?

.

Wow, nice score! I dig the old Futaba

I saw these tires on ebay. Don't want them unless they are good accurate reproduction. Do you have any experience with these? Are they as good and accurate as they look?

Good reproductions would be better than dry rotted originals.

.

Good to know. Price is pretty reasonable at 60 bucks. I'll have to order a set. I've used MCI for quite a few decal sets and have always been very happy with their product. Some of the reproduction stuff out there is very good. I have a couple sets of reproduction kyosho tires on the way from marwan and I hear his products are very good. It would be nice to take my willy for a spin. Even if it's just around the living room on carpet.

.

Thats for sure. I needed a set for my optima mid build and didnt care for the prices of half worn originals. I like having the original hump pack to leave in as display and I think I'll solder up a new pack like you say to run it a little. I don't see it getting much run time as I don't want to beak anything. Those links you posted were a good read. After checking a few things it listed, it appears that it is not the super rare early release.

Well, I've been slowly working on on my Willy. Thought I'd snap off a quick pic before it gets removed from the work bench. As you can see from the first pics when I found it, It received an almost total repaint, new decals, and new tires. When I get some time, probably after hunting season, I'll do a proper photo shoot for it. Right now, the benchtop teaser pic will have to do.

That takes me back. My second car was a Willy's wheeler , the Honda city turbo , I had a lot of fun with that car , later in its life I converted it to a wild willy

Well, I've been slowly working on on my Willy. Thought I'd snap off a quick pic

Didn't think this was that sort of forum

That looks fantastic Basher! Well done

But now it's just another Box Art Clone!

ahh I'm starting to appreciate all the unique schemes ppl painted theirs BiTD

If you're running M38 it's good to have both 5c & 6c packs. Don't need case, just shrinkwrap is fine. M38 goes pretty quickly on 6c so only use that in a large open area. Indoors the 5c is better, especially if driving less than full speed your MSC will thank you.

MSC resistors can get hot enough to heatsoak the bonnet/hood above & melt a dimple.

Also take out the battery when charging; nimh can get very hot even during normal charging. Nicads get hot BiTD when overcharged, until the plastic case is melty & bubbling. If that happens whilst it's still housed in chassis, battery tray starts melting and your motor subframe gets out of alignment etc etc