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I really don't get to the track to much(ever) and VONATS 2017 was a great intro to some real track time. Scr8p and I were talking about running/practicing on an offroad track in NJ over the winter season(indoor), so it's perfect time to try and put something together.

At VONATS, I had my son's car updated to meet the class requirements, but it's really his car to drive so I need to build up one for me. BTW, he's 7 and he helped me build it up for him, as he says 'dad, my favorite part is that thing in the back with the gears, whats it called again?'

I have a bunch of cars but never post builds much, probably because they are mostly kits in boxes, to be built at some later time.

This build is a pretty straight forward' Whats Old is New' based on Jake's (Seabass) arms I got quite a while ago, and again, sat in a box. Originally, I was going to use these arms with a narrowed RPM style chassis, but to try and keep 'breakable' parts to ones I can get more easily, plus the headache of bone engagment/hub/spacers, etc, I'm sticking to the standard chassis and b4 universals.

This is definitely not a shelfer, though I'm using some new parts, there will be a decent number of used parts(most of my builds are). I am trying to go with mostly white and black theme on this.

I'll be showing the non-associated hardware and components I normally use to build up cars.

Here is a short build list:
well used Black B stamp with some 'extra' holes. Ugh.
Jakes 'WOIN' arms front and rear
used stealth that will be rebuilt, b4 slipper and topshaft
NIX inline bellcranks, possibly changed to standard style TBD.
V1 threaded shocks 1.32 and .89
25 degree caster blocks
RPM truck rear hub carriers
B4 CVD's
custom front shock tower/nose bracing TBD
Trackstar 17.5 combo

Here's a quick pile 'o parts pic, to be continued............

Old is New has been re-released here lately

scr8p wrote: ↑Thu Oct 26, 2017 1:37 pm Old is New has been re-released here lately

But does the transmission spin smoothly?

that is a good question. I will be using a new b4 top shaft as ordered this week, direct from associated, so who knows when it was manufactured. I will be posting the result of the rebuild to see if there is any binding due to that topshaft.

Most importantly I have found over the years here, having a cutting mat with official grid and measurements in the pic makes an old RC10 look very high tech, I do the same thing

Like if you took everything out of that pic and set a cup of coffee there, suddenly that mug looks way more engineered.

Haha, yeah, that mat is really helpful, I've found it's great for cutting tape masks for painting.

Here are some new parts that just arrived, some for this project, some for other builds:

So normally I don't use much of the standard associated hardware: one, I don't like rust. two, I have a bunch of stainless hardware. three, I hate how the #4 screws fit in the countersinking. four, I don't really have 'new' kits so bulk hardware is easier.

Most of my hardware is either old stock that my dad gave me, or from mcmaster-carr as much as possible. certainly, there are some specific stuff that I do get from associated.

pic of the screws I use vs the original HW and how they fit in the countersinking:

Quick pic of my hardware stash(about half of what I have):

On to some build pics:

popping the trans apart to update the top shaft, all looks pretty clean and new. No need to do anything except swap out the top shaft and check for clearance to the motor plate. everything checks out great.

the steering rack I plan to use is from shapeways, a NIX product, allows you to mount the servo east-west and tuck it up forward cleanly. To keep the parts strong, I reduce stress from threading and the bearings, quick ream for the bearings, and tap the holes about halfway(this way you get some nice fit, but reduce the internal stress.) At Vonats they seem to hold up pretty well with my rough driving, so we'll try it again. These are labeled 'race' parts.

The battery cup I trimmed for two reasons: one, the cup was already cut up in front. two, I didn't want to drill any more holes in the chassis, the lipo packs I am using need about another 1/8" clearance up front.

With the forward part missing, the battery strap will have features to prevent the battery from walking forward. I applied the same method to the 2wd car I ran.

First opportunity to fab something: I don't have the shorty 8-32 screw for the nose plate. Throw a screw into the lathe to part off: Second look at other items, it turns out I only have some hinge pins. I know I will be making wing tubes possibly, as well as new brace tubes. For these parts, I use 1/8" titanium stock and cut to length and add e-clip recesses. The tubes are from K&S, 3/16" tubing they refer to as 'tappable' with a ID perfect for tapping a #4 screw. Again, mcmaster for titanium, tower or similar for the K&S tubing.

Can't believe you guys start OIN build threads these days... I'm gonna look stupid when I post pics of my (almost...) finished car!!!

This one looks very good

Nice work so far, lookin' good!

Re Stainless screws

Have you bought the packs offered on line? Or are you bulk buying individual screws?

Are all stainless sets cross head like you have used or a hex head screw?

There are a bunch of guys that sell hardware packs at reasonable prices. Knk , fastener express, couple others.

If you are in the USA, McMaster-carr carries pretty much thousands of styles lengths and materials in various bulk quantities. I prefer the Philips head with stainless hardware, because it's rather soft and hex can strip easily.

For me, while kits are good for onesie twosie build, I would spend way more than just bulk purchase.

Looks like I will need to order some more titanium rod for hinge pins, and I also have some bellcrank nuts to make as well. Stay tuned.......