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I bought my son (11) the RC10B6D Club Racer. My dad bought me my first RC10 around the same age. So the plan is to take him to the track to race in the club division. I would like to build my old gold pan to keep up in this class as well and have some fun and participate in the race activities as well. I am looking for advice on upgrades and electronic packages to make the older car as competitive as possible with realistic goals of keeping it fun. If I get hooked at the club level I plan on moving in to a new car and attempt modified. I have gotten a few parts on order. Wide A arms. Front wheel conversion. Rear wheel conversion. Bell cranks from ASC though I really wish I could find the JConcepts ones. New titanium turnbuckles and ball caps. After a good cleaning I think I may be on a good start. The electronics today really have me confused. I like the idea of staying with Reedy on this but am looking for all suggestions from anyone doing the same thing. Pinion and spur sizes etc. Thank you all for being a part of this sport and keeping it alive. It consumed me as a boy and coincidentally after pulling out all the old boxes seems to have me hooked pretty hard again.

There's a lot to consider. I am assuming you will be running on clay. So once you have freshened up everything making sure your bearings, diff, and shocks are all working as should you then need to consider multiple ways to get modern wheels on it to run 2.2 wheels and modern tires of your choice.

You'll need new bearings and axles for rear hubs (associated sells a kit #6802) to do this and associated sells a kit with new front axles (#6801) Go to the website and look at the parts for the rerelease cars as a good education. If you use these two kits rerelease wheels are good for rear and fronts are any B4 wheel. Just noticed you already have some of this on order, good.

As to electronics, for club level I would get a 17.5T ESC combo from one of many options. You don't have to get into all the settings on them but it is something you can learn over time. I run this one in my RC10 and it is pretty easy to learn and basic if you want to stay Reedy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASC293C-Reedy-Blackbox-600Z-ESC-Sonic-540-FT-Brushless-Combo-17-5T/401369803373?epid=11003810797&hash=item5d73812a6d:g:Q00AAOSwOwlZcTml

You'll probably want a modern radio too. By the time you are done a RTR will look like a bargain but what you have will be way cooler. It is not easy to take one of these old guys and get it up to speed of a modern buggy but at club level it can be close if you are a great driver in my experience. On astroturf Ihave sturggled to get pace but certainly enough to have fun in club level.

What a great story about you and your son getting into RC racing. This is a great father/son hobby. My father is no longer with us but I have his Edinger restored and on the shelf as a little reminder. He got me hooked on RC back in the seventies - with planes at that time.
I can completely sympathize with you regarding the modern electronics being so confusing. I was away from the hobby between '94 and about 2014 so I totally missed the transition to lipo, brushless and 2.4 g. I hasn't take me long to fully appreciate the technological advances that have take hold in the hobby. Gone are the days of rebuilding motors (replacing brushess, trueing the comm, etc). Now, simply oil the bearings and your good.
I guess in addition to the items already mentioned, you probably will want to replace those missing nose plate tubes and to flip those shocks right side up.
Best of luck with you and your son. Can you keep us updated on your progress?

Great advice from both of you. I will be on clay at “The Track” in Gaithersburg, MD. That is the exact electrical set up in the club RC10B6 I believe. I wanted to make sure that would be enough to keep up. At $120.00 seems like a great deal. Other than Amain taking 2 weeks to ship things (bad experience the first time) hopefully they get faster. I think I have the wheel conversion figured out. I have also ordered the front bumper tubes. I believe the nose plate is bent, but I can’t seem to find a new one. I will plan on “adjusting” this one to work. I did purchase the Futaba 4PV to handle this and hopefully some additions in the future. I can come clean on here because I know my wife won’t read this post. I also just picked up the released worlds car. So probably gonna want to set that one up as well. Unless there is any reason to leave it in the box. Which seems like a waste to me. In my opinion the vintage cars in good shape are not bringing enough money to sit on a shelf. I will definitely post pics of the progress and the experience along the way.

That ESC/motor combo also comes in 13.5T flavor, if you absolutely want to make sure you keep up...
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/search/?t=parts&query=Blackbox+600Z+

Tamlok wrote: ↑Wed Oct 25, 2017 6:43 pm That ESC/motor combo also comes in 13.5T flavor, if you absolutely want to make sure you keep up...
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/search/?t=parts&query=Blackbox+600Z+

Will the car hold up to that? Stealth tranny? Does anyone have advice on pinion / spur selection?

I ran 9.5 in my gold pan racer with no problems just upgrade to a V2 slipper and you will be good.

Same here. I run 10.5 with rere and vintage and have yet to strip a gear. Besides, you can adjust the slipper if you want some added insurance against a blown tranny.

Take a look in the back of the re-re Worlds manual (free download from AE if you don't have the paper copy), there is a chart with pinion/spur based on your motor. Good starting point and as always monitor your temps. Have you been to The Track yet? I went about six months ago to check it out and inquire about the popular classes. Seems like modified is the norm, with stock only running during big events. Might sway you on what ESC/motor to get.

I was there for the fall opener or what ever they called it. They had a sport class on that day. I know some guys there that run mod. I will call today and ask Mimi about the classes she runs on the reagular. She sold me both the club car and the worlds. It would really be a shame if we can’t race there after all this.

Build the rere. You are right, let's say it goes up one day a couple hundred bucks, hardly retirement money. Read all the threads on what to do if your tranny is an unfortunate binding one, seems a 50/50 shot. In essence, find an old stealth case and old style idler gear solves it.

You may have issues with CVA's popping, mine do not but you can go with longer bones if necessary, can't recall part number. I also changed my bellcranks to Dhawk aluminum. I've run a lot of laps on mine on turf and clay. The stock ball ends not the best either, choose your upgrade, I run RPM.

As noted, whether you go 17.5T or 13.5T is really a function of what class you are running. If you are just bashing around, get the 13.5T. That is what I run and has held up just fine.

Ok. So I have the release and the old gold pan with all the new mods. Both are going to have the cva axles. So is this issue fixable? And is it a bad idea to build both of these cars as the similarity is almost to close? Idk. Its disappointing to hear so many issues with the parts as I always felt associated was the better brand to work with.

Brad wrote: ↑Thu Oct 26, 2017 1:21 pm Ok. So I have the release and the old gold pan with all the new mods. Both are going to have the cva axles. So is this issue fixable? And is it a bad idea to build both of these cars as the similarity is almost to close? Idk. Its disappointing to hear so many issues with the parts as I always felt associated was the better brand to work with.

AE is still a good brand, but those re-re's are made in China instead of the good ole USA. Most if not all of those molds had to be recreated. I believe all of the new style spare header card replacement parts are from China as well. Someone else may be able to clarify even more.

the re-releases are a combination of molded parts and manufactured parts from China and USA. The classic was fine, the worlds had four major/minor issues; a crappy idler gear and a case that isn't perfect but only fits said crappy gear, as well as dogbones that are too short on the CVA's, finally, a b4 top shaft that was machined improperly.. Super frustrating for sure.

jwscab wrote: ↑Thu Oct 26, 2017 8:37 pm the re-releases are a combination of molded parts and manufactured parts from China and USA. The classic was fine, the worlds had four major/minor issues; a crappy idler gear and a case that isn't perfect but only fits said crappy gear, as well as dogbones that are too short on the CVA's, finally, a b4 top shaft that was machined improperly.. Super frustrating for sure.

Ok, so in gathering this info I am trying to understand how to get all said issues resolved. I ordered the #6371 the 3/16 cva set. Is that the exact same part that comes in the worlds kit or is it a “fix” for that part. Also Associated is out of that part so... Maybe there is a way to limit travel so the dogbone doesn’t get over extended? Here are some of the upgrade parts for the gold pan: