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So I have this original Optima that has been a backyard runner for me for a while and I've finally decided to clean it up. I'm digging through my RC junkyard and putting together some piles of new parts for the job and I looked at this vintage Parma Ford Ranger Truck body and thought it might be cool to do an Optima truck conversion build. I pull the body out of the bag and the wheel base was perfect (that never happens for me). I've always liked the tires that came on my Traxxas Slash trucks. They are nice scale BFG's. Before you know it I have what you see here. Everything looks like it will work well (yeah right ) It already had the associated shocks on it when I got it. I just made the aluminum bracket to have a proper upper mount for the shocks and a platform for the body mount that I haven't come up with yet. Maybe Traxxas adjustable mounts? For you Kyosho purists out there cringing at the idea of this project---not to worry. Nothing I'm going to do will damage any of the original Optima parts except for the front bumper and it already has some rash so no loss. I do however have a decent collection of NIP original Optima parts so it should be a nice clean build instead of just a junkyard dog basher. I'll try to take a bunch of pics as I build it and keep you guys posted on it's progress. Bring on the comments and opinions----good and bad.

For the body mounts, look for Kyosho Scale Car body mounts (number starts with OR). They are height-adjustable body mounts that depending on the version are entirely hidden from view.

Hey, for some insparation I have done the same thing not too long ago, I used the Kyosho ultima outlaw body and wheels and tires. The body mounts are from JG.

Thanks for the tips on the body mounts. That truck looks cool. I wonder why they never made an optima outlaw truck from the factory? It does give me some ideas for the front shock setup. I was thinking it would be nice to use long shocks in the front and have them mounted more vertical for a more truck-like appearance. Also while I have no delusions of building a very capable crawler here, It would be nice to be able to set up a longer travel suspension with soft springs for better articulation. I got it all torn down. Everything is filthy, but in good shape. Aside from a few missing screws, this car was in remarkably good shape. Mostly just needs to be cleaned. The transmission is a combination of bearings and bushings so Ill get that all squared away with a fresh set of sealed bearings. This would be a great project to use a belt drive conversion but I haven't seen one of those anywhere for a while.

That a new one for me. Never seen a Optima base truck before. Looks great.

I've drooled over this Optima based truck since '87

Those wheels are screaming Short Course Slash - Don´t do it

DennisM wrote: ↑Wed Aug 30, 2017 1:46 pm Those wheels are screaming Short Course Slash - Don´t do it

I think it's not so much the look as the size which bothers. This might look better with smaller wheels and tires.


My optima mid with 96mm tires and 1/12 short course type wheels

I agree Mr ED - the short course wheels looks great on Your build. Smaller wheels and narrow body which allows full articulation.

The wheels are not my favorite. I just like the tires. The wheel/tire combo is just for sizing right now. I really don't want to build an outlaw style truck. I'm hoping for more of a scaler crawler dimensions. I dont want pin spike tires sticking 2" out of the wheel wells. The idea of buggy turned into outlaw truck has been done alot since the late 80's-early 90's. Even right from the factory from almost every manufacturer. I will probably find some other wheels with similar dimensions and we'll see how the tires end up. I admit, in the pics, its hard to see how the uncut body looks with tires this big. I like the honest input guys. Keep it coming and we'll see how it comes together. I just finished cleaning and started the reassembly. Ditched the bushings in favor of bearings in the tranny. Straightened out one little binding spot in the chain and buttoned it up with some fresh stainless hardware.

Basher67 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 30, 2017 3:15 pmI really don't want to build an outlaw style truck. I'm hoping for more of a scaler crawler dimensions. I dont want pin spike tires sticking 2" out of the wheel wells.

On this point, we definitely agree. 2 of my personal annoyances are touring/onroad cars with tires (usually rears) sucked way inside the rear body wheelwells...even worse if it's a muscle car body and the rear tires are each 3/4" or more inside the rear fenders...it looks so wrong. I'm also not a fan of trucks having tires sticking way out past the wheelwells, and worse if the wheels aren't even close to centering within the fenders. Often the front wheels on those trucks are stuck so far ahead of the front wheelwells, it just looks ridiculous. LIke, why even have wheelwells in the first place? Fortunately in all the examples above, the tires are centered within the wheelwells.

I like things to look more realistic.

I got the the rest of the chassis assembled less shocks and front tower. Everything came out good. No stripped screw holes. No hogged out or chipped outdrives. Chassis still has adjustment room for chain stretch--- this might be the easiest optima I've refurbished. I used Stainless hardware throughout. Cleaned and lubed all the bearings---all the usual stuff. Drivetrain rotates nice and smooth. No binding in the suspension hinge pins.---Now we're ready for the fun stuff To start with, the initial idea of adding a piece of aluminum to the original front shock tower wasn't doing it for me. I've decided to reshape a rear shock tower so that it bolts to the front. This will facilitate a longer shock in the front and will hopefully look a little more "factory kyosho" and a little less "home made hack"

Made some progress tonight. Got the modded front shock mount installed and tried on a set of first gen RC10GT shocks. Everything clears and cycles smoothly. The lengths are pretty spot on. I was worried about binding with the dog bones at such a radical angle but the whole truck rolls very freely and smoothly. I may install some internal limiters in the shocks to tone down the angle a bit anyways. Going to shop for wheels and tires tonight.

This build is in serious trouble right now. Starting to second guess this whole thing. I trimmed the body tonight and realized that it has "ground effects" shaped into the bottom sides of the body. I don't know how I missed this before. Once the body was trimmed it became painfully obvious that this body was meant to be on a 230mm wide pan car. Anyone looking to build a RC10L Nascar truck? So now, the thing that got me started on this build is not going to work for me. I tried a Blackfoot body and the wheelbase was close---just a little too short. The width is what isn't happening---too narrow. So now I'm looking for a body that will work for me. 264mm wheelbase and 200-220mm wide is the optimum dimensions.

Basher67 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 01, 2017 12:03 am Made some progress tonight. Got the modded front shock mount installed and tried on a set of first gen RC10GT shocks. Everything clears and cycles smoothly. The lengths are pretty spot on. I was worried about binding with the dog bones at such a radical angle but the whole truck rolls very freely and smoothly. I may install some internal limiters in the shocks to tone down the angle a bit anyways. Going to shop for wheels and tires tonight.

Nice job on the front shock tower extension. Here's how I did a similar mod with my Barney Optima, so it could use long rear shocks on the front. I fabricated tower sections from carbon fiber for both front & rear towers, while still using the existing towers, to add strength. For the fronts, because I find the 2 solitary screw mounting holes as a potential weak point, I used the existing stock top shock mount holes to bolt on the carbon fiber tower to provide extra support.

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