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Hello, my usual runner was a OIN Rere World Car with Klein arms.



A few month ago, a friend of mine said that he found old RPM parts for me, and he gave me that:



As I already have a new build RPM world Team Car, It decided it was time to sold the Rere World and run a proper vintage racer.

I clean all RPM parts, and boil them a few minutes.



Then I found an cheapo RC10T on Ebay.



Nice rear suspension setup.



After full desassembly and cleaning, I cut the chassis with the RPM template.





Rear end with the rebuilded Stealth.

Nice cut job from the template.

Well, at least you now have an extra set of shocks from the RC10T, haha!

yellowdatsun wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2017 11:52 am Nice cut job from the template.

Well, at least you now have an extra set of shocks from the RC10T, haha!

Thanks, and yes I'm always happy to have more kaki shocks and black caps.

The front end is build with a GPM blue nose plate, it was an option for the RC10Gt. The black anodised part up front is for the front portion of the body.



I drilled the front spindle to adapt RC10Gt front axles because I will use B4 front wheels.

I've got one of these in my build queue! Great looking car, and I love that paint job in the first picture.

Thanks, that's the paint scheme I use on most of my "race" cars.

I used 3/16 3/8 flanged bearing and 3/16 CVA because I want to run rerelease Worldcar rear wheels: they are not vintage, but they are cheap and easy to find even in France.



I rebuilded the "6" shocks.



But I have only installed four of them.

Viper body, modern tires, it already looks fast.



I will race at the french VONATS with this car (we call this race VORN here). Brushless are allowed, but this year I want to use a brushed motor.

http://www.vintageoffroadnationaux.fr/fvorn/vorn-2017/

I found a nice LRP ESC.



And I bought a LRP 17x2 to give it a try...If its too slow I'll try a 12x2.

Everything is finished, does someone know if 20t is a good starting point to gear it with a 17x2 and a 2S LiPo ?



Same paint scheme as my previous worldcar rerelease.



25 years of evolution.

Great build. Thanks for posting.

Mais quel artiste!!!

Very, very nice build. The body paint and plastic parts combo is spot-on.

Gearing depends on the spur too 17x2 is torquey and in any case 20T looks a bit low-geared to me - what spur, mon ami?

a+
Paul

Its a 81t spur gear. Do you think I can use a 12x2 on 2S LiPo without burning the esc?

81/20*2.25=9:1-ish... I will check some of my older brushed gearing charts but you might be able to go higher especially on the low-grip surface you guys race on. I would press the bushings out of that mill no matter what and replace them with proper ball-bearings, always help

12x2 + lipo is pretty much equivalent to the hottest combos of BITD (the motor is a bit less demanding than top-notch but the lipo can supply all of it). If that LRP is top-of the line, then I think yes. If mid-range, I'd be a bit worried...

Lovely car no matter what

I have a car I picked up w/ white RPM arms... you just boiled them in tap water?

Checking the B4 instructions manual, page 20, and a bit of extrapolation, suggests 8.5:1-ish for a 17 turn... and this was with NiMH. Me says 8.2:1 is safe enough with lighter, better lipos

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 15, 2017 3:49 pm I have a car I picked up w/ white RPM arms... you just boiled them in tap water?

Yes, I saw that in this rcca article:
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2013/10/04/how-to-boost-the-strength-of-plastic-parts/

ra272 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 16, 2017 9:39 am Yes, I saw that in this rcca article:
http://www.rccaraction.com/blog/2013/10/04/how-to-boost-the-strength-of-plastic-parts/

Cool, thanks. I was wondering too if anyone tried "whitening" the white RPM arms like you do w/ dirty ugly white AE parts.