RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi guys

I feel that something that's missing in this area is a consolidated thread that people can refer to when searching for parts or mods for their TRX-1s. Before I go on, I am anything but a guru on the car, i picked up a couple of them and raced one at a vintage meeting in October and am keen to get it running better for the race this year so I'm hoping to learn a lot as i go so anything you've done (period correct or otherwise) will be great

I've read a bunch of threads and i get a crumb of a lead from one, then a clue in another, the other thing I'm finding is "just get the black parts" is in a lot of threads from the 2000's but here in 2017, those parts are getting thin on the ground too

What i hope to create with your help is a list of original part numbers with a corresponding part number that works and is available and if any mods are needed to make that part fit etc. Obviously some parts are still available today using the original part numbers

I'm happy to add the content of your posts to this first post as we go along so all the info stays in one spot

Something i read today was a steering mod is to use the SRT steering knuckle (which i assume is part number TRA2536) with the TRX1 axle which apparently gives you a lot more steering but the tip didnt state why you get more steering, or if the knuckle will fit in the standard TRX1 hub carrier but it reminded me of a similar mod on the front of the JRX pro was to use the truck front hub/knuckle. Anyway so any tips like that would be fantastic too

Cheers for anything you want to add in here, I'm sure going forward, people will find it a valuable resource

Mikey



-Traxxas parts compatibility

Front Bulkhead - one trick i know for sure, you can use an older front bulkhead that is one piece, and trim out the middle, and use for the trx-1. I think it's the bullet front bulkhead (#1630), which is the same as rad and hawk (also, rad2, hawk2, LS2, blue eagle LS, Eagle, and Sledgehammer). - jwscab

TCP Compatibility - If for some reason you would like a narrower front end on your trx1, stock 2600 series trx3/tcp arms (#2631/2631R) will bolt right to a trx1. You need the aluminum spacers on the lower shock mount position. Remember to shim out your bump steer with all this and you might need a range of turnbuckle lengths. TRX-1-3


-Other Parts compatibility

I just found out something recently, that a trx-1 transmission will fit a RC10B2/B3/T3 motor plate almost DROPIN. Two of the mounting holes will fit #4 screws, but you need to open up the hole slightly for the top shaft to fit the slipper plate through, then drill and tap the other mounting holes. Since the B2 rear chassis has a kickup, you would need to bend up a small kickup to adapt the back of the motor plate to the TRX-1 chassis. - jwscab

RPM Nitro Rustler front arms (black RPM 80492, blue RPM 80495) : I run two traxxas bottom load shock bushings to "shim" the difference at the inboard mount AND I stack two 1.5° caster wedges under the front bulkheads to achieve the arm boss clearance at the chassis Then I run the 25° caster blocks (#2634R) with the 2500 series knuckles (#2536) listed as the tcp option parts. The 2500 series knuckle will not fit the 2700 series block.Remember to shim out your bump steer with all this and you might need a range of turnbuckle lengths. - TRX-1-3

RPM Bandit rear arms (RPM 73282) are a direct fit. You may need to trim some material from the inboard bosses and also the pivot blocks. 2750 rear arms and the RPM versions have 3° of toe engineered right into them

First-gen stealth diff ball gear (AE #6580) is a direct replacement for the traxxas one. Balls are standard 3/32". Carbide tungsten is better - Lonestar

Hinge pins aren't 3mm as one would think... they actually are 1/8" meaning you can mix and match with RC10/T parts if needed. - Lonestar

Replacement for slider driveshafts - The part number is C26506 (dual joint telescopic rear drive shafts for Traxxas Bandit 1/10) on integy.com
- badnat see thread http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=41796

I have found that the Axial 20t top gear fits the TRX gearbox perfectly. It's made of metal - so much better than the plastic parts and its cheap . Part AX30394 - Patrese

Also, the 18mm HSP idler shaft works perfectly. I use the Traxxas 1996 idler and insert narrowed Tamiya plastic bushings in the transmission housings and run bearings inside the 1996 idler. - Patrese

Plus with the Haiboxing/HBX slipper Shaft looks like it fits, part HBX-KB-61035 using Kyosho or Schumacher (with internal bearing) spur gears. This might be useful for non AE or Losi guys. Also usefull as the STRC topshaft doesnt seem available at the moment, although i have seen a few top shafts that can use older losi dual pad slipper plates (XX or XXX or early 22 compatible), which allow Losi or AE dual pad spur gears. - Patrese

-General Tips

Transmission internal ratio is 2.14:1 - TRX-1-3

A note on the 2700 series knuckles and aluminum front axles in the "new" header card: the axles are machined like poo and they streak taper just before the threads. Go with the 2500 series steel axles or find some "nitro buggy" knuckles and axles (#3337) - TRX-1-3

-Mods / upgrades

Slipper / Topshaft upgrade - St-rc makes or made a top axle you could use to mount a b4 dual pad slipper and spur.(#ST3793AE) - Mr. ED

Steering upgrade - I used the srt caster blocks (2634r/25 degree,2632r/30 degree), knuckle and axle attached (#2536) to a stock trx-1 arm. The reason that I even tried it in the first place was because I broke something and didn't have the correct replacement parts. The srt parts fit with little or no modding and ended up giving me a noticeably tighter turning radius - Harry697

Hex rims on rear - I used TRA3654 hex from the rustler on the rear axle to allow the use of 12mm hex rims, you need to use 5mm shims to space it correctly. Its an 8mm wide hex so it allows the use of wheels with not much offset such as tamiya DF03 rims. The best rims i found to use were the Team C ones T02033. Use a serrated lock nut on the wheel as theres not much thread left - Delorean

Alloy top gear #2794 is a must have if you're gonna run yours... unfortunately it was rare as hen's teeth when I was looking for one. It's a PITA to fit on the axle. Heat it up in the oven before you fit in on so that thermal dilatation helps. (don't burn yourself, use gloves) - Lonestar


alloy diff hardrives (4628X, Drive Yokes, Hardened Steel w/ U-Joints) are a must have too. the flat spot and grub screw aren't enough for plastic outdrives to survive very long - Lonestar (with help from TRX 1-3)

Links for Info/manuals

EXPLODED VIEW
https://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/legacy_explodedviews_TRX-1.pdf

PARTS LIST
https://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/legacy_partslist_TRX-1_0.pdf

Removed For Clutter Control / Redundancy

Here's my method:

I have:

a bullet trx-10 hybrid
a bullet/rad/hawk/2/trx hybrid
Blue eagle
TRX-1

between all these guys, they used almost all of the various parts that traxxas made in the 90's, 00's and still moving forward.

at one time the traxxas website had all of the obsolete documents; not sure if they are still there, I downloaded all of the manuals and parts lists for these models, as well as the standard eagle and blue eagle LS, and use these as cross-references.

by looking between them and searching images of parts through google and ebay, I can get a really good idea what crosses between the models.

one trick i know for sure, you can use an older front bulkhead that is one piece, and trim out the middle, and use for the trx-1. I think it's the bullet front bulkhead, which is the same as rad and hawk.

I just found out something recently, that a trx-1 transmission will fit a RC10B2/B3/T3 motor plate almost DROPIN. Two of the mounting holes will fit #4 screws, but you need to open up the hole slightly for the top shaft to fit the slipper plate through, then drill and tap the other mounting holes. Since the B2 rear chassis has a kickup, you would need to bend up a small kickup to adapt the back of the motor plate to the TRX-1 chassis.

RC10B2/B3/T3 motor plates are available from team associated for 2 bucks right now.

St-rc makes or made a top axle you could use to mount a b4 dual pad slipper and spur.
I think... It's been awhile since I bought it.

I'm pretty sure that the SRT front knuckle mod was mine. It's been several years since I messed with a TRX-1 and don't exactly remember what all I did to make it work. IIRC, I used the srt caster blocks, knuckle, and axle attached to a stock trx-1 arm. The reason that I even tried it in the first place was because I broke something and didn't have the correct replacement parts. The srt parts fit with little or no modding and ended up giving me a noticeably tighter turning radius.

I'll try to dig up some pics and see if it sparks my memory as to exactly what I did.

Yeah, I know it was harry697 that posted it up about the front end work...thought it was on the traxxas board. I think he did it with the trx1 he got from me. Was an all white parts one and it pretty much brittled apart once he started running it and had to make some alterations with what he had when it fell apart

Todd

TRX3/TCP PARTS LIST

https://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/legacy_partslist_TCP.pdf

Ok so because a lot of parts are the same and some are interchangeable I am leaving the TRX3 parts list.

Rear bulkheads

2692 can substitute the 1992 rear bulkhead. The camber link holes are close enough. And you've got wing tubes with the 2692 if you are into wing tubes.

Period correct "hop ups"

A&L still offers some excellent NOS goodies for the TRX-1.
Steering, dogbones, battery straps, slipper clutch, LW transmission........

http://vintageteamaandl.com/

I wonder if these would fit, I bet they do.
http://www.activepowersports.com/integy-c26506blue-telescopic-rear-drive-shafts-1-10-bandit-c26506blue/?gclid=CI-0ztfI4tECFU1qfgodUtQIHQ

Hi Guys!!

great info here so far, i've put the into the main post in some sort of logical order and we'll go from there, let me know if its all good so far

cheers

Mikey

From a few TRX-1 rebuilds here and there:

First-gen stealth diff ball gear (AE #6580) is a direct replacement for the traxxas one. Balls are standard 3/32". Carbide tungsten is better

Hinge pins aren't 3mm as one would think... they actually are 1/8" meaning you can mix and match with RC10/T parts if needed.

Alloy top gear #2794 is a must have if you're gonna run yours... unfortunately it was rare as hen's teeth when I was looking for one. It's a PITA to fit on the axle. Heat it up in the oven before you fit in on so that thermal dilatation helps. (don't burn yourself, use gloves)

alloy diff hardrives (sorry, no P/N) are a must have too. the flat spot and grub screw aren't enough for plastic outdrives to survive very long.

will try to think about others

Removed For Clutter Control / Redundancy

TRX-1-3 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 01, 2017 1:05 pm 4628X, Drive Yokes, Hardened Steel (w/ U-Joints)

cheers!

cheers guys!

info added

if anyone can add any specific part numbers to any of the info above it would be great too

Mikey

Delorean wrote: ↑Thu Feb 02, 2017 10:49 pm cheers guys!

info added

if anyone can add any specific part numbers to any of the info above it would be great too

Mikey

Added some part numbers to the first post Mikey.

Todd

Yeah dude! I was scarfing an eyload here earlier today (at work *cough*) and saw the parts numbers request and thought damn I could do that and then I thought what a pain in the a........maybe later.

I check back, and you're all over it.

Thanks dude

your welcome but not a problem. I've actually got almost all the traxxas parts lists/exploded views for the vintage stuff sitting here on my desk so it was pretty painless. Hit up ebay for a few and have some youtube music blasting in my face and before I knew it I had the easy ones done

Todd