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A friend of mine asked if I could build him a replica of an old Reedy silver can modified motor for a restoration of his. I have never gone earlier that the Yok style motors so this is new for me. It looks like it was common to remove the crimp tabs and use small sheet metal screws to hold the endbells on. What were some popular winds for these early motors? I am not against hand winding armatures and re-balancing them. Was there anything different about the brush setups? I was planning on using new Johnson 540 motors as the starting point. Any suggestions?

P.S. Wire gauge.....what was commonly used in that period?

Update....Ok I think Im going to ditch the Mabuchi and go with Igarashi N3649 based motors as the basis for the vintage reedy replicas. Should be able to dye the endbell and fit ball bearings without much issue. Does anyone know what reedy used for brush material on the early motors?

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Ok I get what you are saying. But take the motors in this thread:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=94&t=37849

These are the style I am trying to duplicate, so say back in '79 or '80 could you order different winds or was there just one or??? That is before my time so Im not sure how things were. I know individuals were building their own, but im curious what you could buy at the time.

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Interesting subject. I'd love to see some pictures of this process if you have the opportunity to take some, especially if its becoming a now-forgotten black art.

tamiyadan wrote:a lot of the old reedy catalogs just say

05 motor Modified on the label no wind or turn information.

some info here
hot was 32 Turns where the basic stock motors were 35 Turns
https://classicrc.wordpress.com/motors/trinity/trinity-igarashi-red-can/
35 Turn, 23 AWG
https://classicrc.wordpress.com/motors/mrp/mrp-550/

35 turn (this would be later 1983-1984)
https://classicrc.wordpress.com/motors/reedy/reedy-05-stock/


building a end bell
https://classicrc.wordpress.com/motors/checkpoint/checkpoint-igarashi-modular-endbell/


Really this will get you in the ball park.

Fantastic!!!!! Thank you! I had not seen that site before. Looks like It would be better to start off with a can from a N3654 and cut it down to 49mm length, use a 540 size armature, re-wound, add bearings and I love that brush system. Should be easy enough to re-draw in CAD and knock some parts out. This is going to go in a RC12 running 1200mAh cells. I will for sure take pictures.

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Dan,
Yeah this is more for my own entertainment.....you know how it is.

Dynos-Check! I have a Tekin and a CE.
Magnet Charging-Check! I have that capability at work.
Balancing-Check! Again have that at work.
Ohm Meters and such-Check! Way too much of that stuff....

I think you are right though, I need to borrow an original and take some data off of it first.

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Ha dont have the wife factor so Im good there. I used to build and modify yokomo motors back in the day, just never got into these can motors. Now I work at a place in engineering with a lab full of equipment to make DC motors......so why not experiment? I know what you are saying on ohm meters, got it covered. Beating the performance of the old "mod" motors should be easy, but what I would like to do is match the performance fairly close. And this isnt for racing but I guess just to give the car the right "feel".

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Yeah....me thinks thats a good start too. Here in engineering we have all the magnet charging equipment as we develop them for our own products. Nothing like water cooled induction coils and a bank of capacitors thats about the size of a fridge. For this application though, probably getting the winds and torque curve close along with a period "look" will be the order of the day. I do have a stock of dry magnets..........but I dont know how crazy I want to get......Im already crazy enough.