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Front suspension and steering
- RPM blue T4 arms
- FT hing pin mount
- front arms forward 5mm
- RPM ball cups
- FT rod ends
- Titanium turnbuckles
- FT 12mm clamping hex
- 12mm big bore, red spring, 40wt, 1.7mm
- 10mm 2nd shock, no spring, 30wt, #2
- relocated camber link to match steering angle
- FT aluminum bellcrank steering
- FT steering bearing kit
- Hitec 645 metal gear servo

Rear Suspension and Drivetrain
- RPM black arms
- 12mm big bore, yellow spring, 50wt, 1.6mm
- 10mm 2nd shock, no spring, 30wt, #2
- FT aluminum hubs
- CF outer camber towers
- 1/4" CVD stub axles
- T4 CVD ball/bone
- T4 transmission
- FT lightweight ball diff
- 3 degree kickup shim
- AVID trans and hub bearings
- AVID top shaft & motor centering kit
- FT V2 vented slipper
- yellow pads
- clear gear cover
- 87t spur

Electronics
- Castle Sidewinder 3 ESC
- Castle 4600Kv 4-pole motor
- 11t pinion
- Airtronics 461 receiver
- Airtronics MT-4 radio
- Orion 100c 4500mAh shorty 2s LiPo
- Pro-Line CF battery strap

Tires and Wheels
- AE 12mm hex 2.2 truck wheels, white
- Pro-Line Masher 2000 tires

Decided to install dual shock rears

Very nice.

Looks like a hoot to drive!

Thanks guys. I might bash around in it today with a gopro inside.

I just can't start telling you all how smooth and in control this thing is. I was amazed today.

At about the 5 minute mark I lawn dart it into a juniper tree. Not a scratch. I beat the piss out of this thing for 2 straight batteries. Nothing but grins.

http://youtu.be/eBI5qibR-EE

[youtube]eBI5qibR-EE[/youtube]

it can take some abuse for sure! cool car/truck

Thanks broodenburg.

I made it home from RCX today. Or should I say Traxxas Expo. Picked these up

Built a light controller. This can not get any easier. You jest need a 3rd channel on your radio and receiver. With this your lights are controllable by the radio AND able to be dimmed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2N2x_SDHJdc
[youtube]2N2x_SDHJdc[/youtube]

Instructions:
1. Find an old unused servo.
2. Open it and pull out the circuit board
3. Leave the "dial" potentiometer and wires connected
4. Desolder the motor off (these 2 leads on the board are your LED hot and ground).
5. Plug 3 wire from servo into receiver AUX
6. Test with multimeter, turn dial, Find as close to zero volts as possible and leave the dial. Note positive and negative sides.
7. Super glue, hot glue, or shrink tube the dial so it cannot move.
8. Wire on the leads to the LED lights (motor lead holes on the board).
9. Cover the circuit board and all wires with electrical tape or encase it somehow.
10. Set your 3rd channel and have fun!



*gopro battery strap installed

ESC TO THE LEFT AND LIGHTS TO THE RIGHT

I really did not like these when they came out. NOW it looks badass! Love it!

We got a convert!!^^^




Awwlllll 1 person gave it a thumbs down haha

SC10mB jumps great on 3s. On 2s it cannot clear the 1:8 scale triples but on 3s it sure can. It is almost as touchy as the 1:8 4x4s. Very very controllable. The ESC didn't like it though. It took it but it was hot. Had a hilarious time driving full throttle off the track into the rough surrounding terrain. It takes whatever line you point it in.




If only AE would make this. It would justify the 10b as RTR while at the same time flip a middle finger to traxxas.