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As with so many things, the wife found it in a box and said get it working or get rid of it.... so I'll be rebuilding my childhood XXT! No, not a Sport, KE, CR, or G+. An early 1992(?) XXT, complete with Novak Rooster & GreenMachine. Nearly stock except for Ti turnbuckles.

Batteries are all long since dead and the charger doesn't work at all apparently. So new battery and charger are up first, I'm looking at Floureon 2S 30C battery and Tenergy TB6AC. I'll get a little low-voltage buzzer until I decide to jump onto the brushless bandwagon (currently thinking about a HK 13.5t combo).

So, suggestions on spares to keep an eye out for or tips/tricks to keep it in good shape? I remember a bunch of Trinity parts were available, and digging around forums it seems that a transmission brace would be a highly recommended. I also read that boiling nylon for a few minutes can help stave off brittleness. I'm all open to suggestions.

So far this place has hands down the most collected knowledge on these old cars. Thanks all for sharing it!

I've recently rebuilt (really just freshenend up) 2 xxt's. One is running a trackstar 4000kv motor and esc combo with the hydro drive. The other has a reedy 3300kv and xp esc combo I robbed out of my old b4, this one has the standard slipper. Both seem to be a good fit for the truck. The one area I've had issues is the front hinging areas. There is a company on eBay that sells repro front bulkheads, and they seem to be holding up well. I've been running one for a few weeks now. The upper brace broke this weekend at the hinge, so I'll be looking for one of those soon. Other than that all I've done to the truck after sitting for so long is rebuilt the shocks. Haven't had any other issues between the two. I'm by no means a good driver, but the old xxt was holding its own at the track last time I took it there.

Keep a stock of parts on hand...

Bulkhead(s), pivot plate, hubs, diff gear... etc.

You can buy a reproduction body on eBay now too.

I'm pumped about the new bodies! I recently fixed up a XXT, and my research said to be careful with the diff. I bought an aftermarket aluminum diff gear, but hopefully it won't be necessary... I've also bought a few items from that ebay seller, and they have been awesome!

The eBay member who makes 3D printed front bulkheads for the XX / XXT is also a member here. He also has a website from which you can buy most anything you'll need: www.oldrc.com. Also check out www.vintagelosi.com for some light reading. The XX and XXT are fantastic vehicles. They both have a special place in my collection. Share some photos when you get a chance!

The original body is still in good shape, and I have a spare still in package.

I found a set of MIP 1201 CVDs, the one upgrade I always really wanted as a kid. Plus an extra set of rear shocks I'll mount in the front for extra ground clearance for bashing.

I'll get some pics up later

Oldrc and valkrye seem to be the best two bets for parts so far

Nagreennd: where did you find an aluminum diff gear? I had only found one for the xxxt.

Hammad Ghuman made a alloy diff gear for the XXT. They pop up on ebay from time to time. I don't think it is completely needed, the issue was more of setting up the differential and slipper correctly. I learned this the hard way, I converted one of my XXTs to brushless when Novak first released the Super Sport SS5800 combo. It was like night and day compared to the old Novak Duster and Trinity Midnight motor that had been in it.

The diff gear issue wasn't it wearing out, it was not having it set tight enough to prevent it from slipping and not having the slipper slip enough. So after a few runs, sometimes one, the slip in the differential would cause the balls to heat up enough to melt the inside of the gear, ending the life of the poor gear.

I eventually got the HG alloy gear, actually found it in a random "brand new stuff but it's old junk box" at Trains and Lanes. I really didn't install it for quite awhile, since I had figured out prior to getting it what the actual issue was and had corrected it.

That and new diff balls, since the diff slip debacle had left the ones I had with flat spots, but being oblivious I had rebuilt the diff a couple times with the same diff balls. So I could damn near lock it down as much as I could but it would still slip due to the out of round balls. They were the original kit ones and honestly the diff always felt gritty from the beginning. So they probably weren't all the round to begin with. Then throw in an overpowered brushless motor, I'm surprised they still looked round.

BUHAHAHAHHAHA.... It's alive!

Ended up with a Vans' 6500mah 2s. Soldered up new 10ga wiring (10yd BoyBoy wasn't the best at soldering) with some Deans connectors and just got done letting her rip at little. I was a little worried that the electronics were bad, but everything came up just fine.

I must say though, 20yrd RoadHawgs don't have the best grip in dew covered grass!

Any suggestions for some all-around play tires? I'm leaning towards Proline Dirt Hawg II

Haven't updated this in awhile... I'll try to get some pictures up later

What I thought was just a busted upper brace turned out to have cracked the servo saver as well. After getting those replaced I stripped out the diff gear. I need a job as a destructive tester!

So it was time for some noticeable repair and upgrade/tuning

I repaired/re-inforced the upper brace with Carbon/Kevlar.

Retrofitted an eBay aluminum XXXT steering setup.
Installed some Lunsford Titanium kingpin studs
Refreshed shocks with some 35wt oil
Installed 2.5* rear hubs
New DirtHawg II tires

Scored a HG aluminum diff gear on eBay awhile back, so that's now installed with fresh ceramic balls.
Installed an aluminum upper shaft/gear while I had it all torn apart.
refreshed the hydradrive with heavy fluid and scuffed up the slipper pad
Covered it all up with a new RPM molded cover

We'll see how it handles tonight!

Check the diff over and over until you feel it is totally broken in. Did you replace the rings as well?

I flipped the rings, but didn't replace.

Did a "break-in", checked the dif. Ran it some, checked the diff... stripped the nut. It had the 6 washers called out in the manual, but that was leaving only a thread or two engaging the nut and nothing into the nylok which is why I think it loosened up in the first place. I'll have to play with the washer stackup this time.

So, ordered the "improved" one piece nut and some bfast XXXTCR rings/shims

ManMan wrote:
So, ordered the "improved" one piece nut and some bfast XXXTCR rings/shims

Can you point a guy in the direction of this mythical "improved" nut? I just stripped on of mine too trying to crank down on it.
Thanks!

If I recall there are 2 types of nut from Losi. What part did you strip? The metal nut or the plastic?

I would send you a pics but I am stuck in Melbourne, Australia until June.

knixdad wrote:If I recall there are 2 types of nut from Losi. What part did you strip? The metal nut or the plastic?

I would send you a pics but I am stuck in Melbourne, Australia until June.

I have the two-piece version...a small lock nut inserted into a plastic "cup" that has the tabs sticking out the side.

I've spent a few days in Melbourne. I wouldn't have minded getting stuck there for a little while longer

sunshineFC3s wrote:

ManMan wrote:
So, ordered the "improved" one piece nut and some bfast XXXTCR rings/shims

Can you point a guy in the direction of this mythical "improved" nut? I just stripped on of mine too trying to crank down on it.
Thanks!

Losia2911