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so i ordered some of the worlds re release cv joints for my current build. my car is running new rpm rear arms,new re-release rear inner arm mounts,re re outer hubs,carbon works rear tower and kyosho velvet shocks. i also bought the blue pin washer (see link)

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associated/setuprc10wc/RC10WC_RCCA_Review/Pc0540200.jpg


now iam also running the og stealth tranny (with upgraded top shaft and slipper) with the og (fresh build) diff. when i installed the cv joints with the blue pin washer on the outside (like pic in link) and what ever shims i needed to move bone in towards tranny, my dog bone pins are barely in the out drive. a little flex and i can pop them out. i could not get enough shims on the inside of the axle with out taking the blue washer off from the outside. by doing that i can get the dog bone in far enough so iam comfortable.

my question is, are the outdrives different on the re-release diff? its either that or the current parts iam using together.
what do you guys think?

This has been a problem with the world's cars. Not sure why, but the bones are pretty short. If you've already moved all the spacers to the inside, and all that is left is the blue one on the outside, the only other thing I can say is check the camber (a degree can make the difference between keeping the bone in the outdrives or not!) and make sure the wheelbase setting on the inner mounts is leaving the bones as straight as possible.

Put some limiters in the shocks.

i ended up putting the blue washer on the inside of the hub. not what i wanted to do but gets the bones in the outdrives.

i do have limiters in the socks but i havent gotten to the point of bench set up yet. just building stuff now. if there is to much droop when i put the tires on ill prolly put more limiters in the rear shocks. this car is going ot be raced.

I noticed this when I built mine. But, they haven't actually fallen out yet when running the car. I still have the blue washer on the outside.

i wasnt comfortable with the amount of bone in the drive cup. thats why i put the blue washer on the inside. i could of just used shims but damn it i bought those washers and they were going to be used.

I forget the part number, but one of the centers bones for the b44 is the correct size needed. They made a mistake with the kit.

I believe the kit bones are the rear center bone from the B44.

I have original MIP CVDs (b2/3) and some re-re. When I get a moment, I will align the drive pin holes and check length. I dont seem to have droop issues with the MIPs.

The World's Car kit CVA bone is the rear center bone from the B44 (part number 9760)

The same bone is also found in the 1/4" Axle RC10 CVA set (part number 6369)

I use the rear center bone from the B44.2 (part number 9911)

It is approximately 1.25mm longer

9911 is on the left, 9760 is on the right

VTBruiser wrote:The World's Car kit CVA bone is the rear center bone from the B44 (part number 9760)

The same bone is also found in the 1/4" Axle RC10 CVA set (part number 6369)

I use the rear center bone from the B44.2 (part number 9911)

It is approximately 1.25mm longer

9911 is on the left, 9760 is on the right

YES!!!!!!

Showcase1186 wrote:
YES!!!!!!

I'll take that as a sign of approval

The 9911 bones work great on my World's Car build

The extra 1.25 or so mm may not seem like much at first, but at least in my case prevented me from having to limit the rear shocks too much and/or run the bones too close to the end of the outdrives

Idk why but I grabbed the universals off my b2. When I go cv joint, I like the b44 fix. Genius!

*Bookmarks topic* I will be buying two.. or more.. of those next month!

So a stock World's Car should have those bones a set of trans cases and an idler to make it right heh. Well and tires. Oh and The top shaft except the shaft in mine was good. heh