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I think I finally have all the parts needed to start my Ten4. I wanted something a little different than a pan, and once I saw this AE graphite chassis I had my project! Since the chassis had a few extra holes drilled already, I knew that I wouldn't be destroying a survivor chassis drilling any holes needed for this project. Here are the parts laid out, just waiting on the Shapeways box which should be here Tuesday. Since the graphite chassis was never thought about someone crazy enough to use one, I will need to design a front tensioner and figure out the belt length when fully assembled. I'm looking forward to this project!

Ahh, you beat me to it! I have a Graphite and CC/Trinity chassis in basically the same condition as your graphite so I'm right there with you on this one. I haven't decided which, but I won't be able to start mine until the winter anyway. Best of luck to you with your Graphite 10-4!

With the Columbus Day holiday and being off, I made some progress. Too bad USPS was off also or I would have had my Shapeways delivery and probably close to completed.

I like where this build is going. It's gonna turn out good.

Wifey looked over at my laptop and thought it was a pic of my table then proceeded to ask if there were more than one of me.

vintage AE wrote:I like where this build is going. It's gonna turn out good.

Wifey looked over at my laptop and thought it was a pic of my table then proceeded to ask if there were more than one of me.

Looking good so far!

Looking good!

Cheers, Dave.

I had some time to work more on the Ten4. Very challenging build where I am always filing, Dremeling or testing something. It's like the original RC10 build back in 88, lol! Since Shapeways sent the wrong part and I still don't have resolution, i'm basically at a standstill. I used the rere nose piece I had as a template for the steering mount holes. The rear wing mounts are Yokomo YZ-2 pieces. I really like the screw mount system and the wing washers they include.

I attached a photo of the front belt tensioner I designed in CAD and will print. The only place I can mount without interfering with anything is the pass through hole for the nose tubes. I am hoping this will work well, but realize there will be some flex due the the graphite chassis design. I don't know if I can measure accurately for a belt now or do I need the front tensioner?

Finally, I don't know if I should dye any of the parts black. I was thinking of dying the rear arms and the front steering assembly on the arms. I'm torn if I should do the rear bulkhead or trans cases. I will say, there 3d printed parts pick up all kinds of dirt!

Hi Pumpkinfish,

Check with mk-Zero or GoMachv, the front tensioner also lifts the belt to go over the battery cup and

battery.

Can you design the front belt tensioner mount so it is the same height as the one on a tub chassis?

Cheers, Dave.

Looking good man, can't wait to see more progress. Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.

On the front tensioner, you could always add a "leg and foot" to it that would rest on the chassis, with or without screwing it to the chassis.

To design the front tensioner, I installed the base and shaft on my rere and measured how far away it was from the shock tower and how high off the chassis. I then cut cardboard strips and taped them in place to get measurements to put the tensioner in the correct location. But now that I am thinking about it, I have my rere in the short nose position. Is that how the other cars are built? Maybe Brian or Jeff can take measurements for me where their front tensioner sits and I can rework it. Ahhhhh I'm second guessing myself!

My car is LWB, and Jeff has built one in SWB. Either way, the tensioner goes in the same place on the chassis, but is closer to the transmission in the SWB version.

BTW, I've been making the sprues between parts about .8mm in diameter, you probably don't want to make it much smaller than that... looks tiny on your part.

Good eye, I have mine at 0.4mm.

I was thinking, would I be wrong if I was to extend the steering nut up and make that the front tensioner? Seems like it could be a more universal fix (and less "flexy") than my shock tower mount point.

worth a try! I think for tub cars the nose tube mounting location is pretty ideal, and very stiff, but for graphite cars or other "special applications" it would be nice to have a good option.

Another piece that would work and keep our geometry similar is the rc10gt chassis brace. I thought it would be handy for a flat chassis with bolt on kick up, but would be great for yours too