RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I am getting back into the fun and resurrecting an old Gold Pan! It's nearly brand new and never run. I have been out of the game for so long that I have simple questions but I cannot find the answers on the forum.

1. Are you just using servo tape to mount the ESC, power switch, and receiver to the pan?
2. I would like to convert to Lipo and I see many people running the battery tray down the centerline on the pan. Do I have to drill and countersink new holes to attach the battery box in this position? Is it better to just keep th battery box spanning the width of the chassis?
3. I have the driver to put in the buggy, how does he attach to the body?

I have ordered Reedy Sonic 17.5 brushless, LRP Comp Flow ESC, DS1313 servo, and Futaba Radio. I only plan to put around the house and street, no bashing . Is this a decent setup for this? Not looking to win races. I just need to decide how to fit a battery! I was thinking about NiMH with this setup; what would my runtime be? Not looking to break speed records!

Thanks,
Kevin

If you decide to run a shorty lipo I have bolt in trays that will be for sale soon, once my machine is back together.
No drilling needed

Otherwise you can use a long battery strap and standard battery mount along with foam spacers

Are they the Original trays? I have the original ones that came with the car but it seems they only line up with the holes in the chassis when they are mounted width-wise.

I am hoping to find a tray that will mount in the existing holes and line up with the battery recess in the rear bulkhead.

For some other lipo battery mounting options, see here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=38736.

Thank you.

I have decided to swap to the "new" rear bulkhead and drill/tap new holes for the battery tray and run the battery down the centerline. I think I have figuresd out all the other questions too!

I'll post some pics in a week or so once complete!

Yes I use double sided tape for everything including the front battery cup.. Mate with electronics like that you are more than set for the street you could race competitively with that stuff . Good luck an have fun mate

If its new never run original don't drill any holes in chassis an get some chassis protection stuff to cover the bottom of chassis.. Or find a used rc10 to have fun with

Thanks for the replies. It's going together now. I decided to change the rear bulkhead and drill the front battery tray holes....I know, I know! I plan to just run it around the yard a bit and it will really just sit on the shelf.

It still has the original Associated tires!