RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

My son is trying to race with a Worlds RC10. The under-steer is pretty difficult to work through compared to his modern B5M chassis. Are there any front suspension tips or tricks to adjust for the under-steering in an RC10?

just the usuals:

lighten front shock oil/springs
stiffen rear shocks/springs
add nose weight
adjust rear traction via tire pattern/softness
remove caster

On modern surfaces you really need plenty of weight up front to get it to turn in.
Here's the front end of Craig Dreschers car at the EOS on a high grip surface.

Drescher's front setup at CML cup in 2013 was 50w, blue springs and lot of nose and servo weight

Lets start with your current set up, including front/rear & tires, then what tires are you running on your modern car. My RC10s turn just as good as my B5r.

Craig Drescher's car has a bunch of weight in it, I had no idea. I have 21 grams in the front of my sons car, looks like i should add more. I ordered some 20 degree caster blocks. I have the softest front spring available, and 35 weight shock oil. Gold Dirt Web tires front and back. I am thinking about changing the front shock oil to 32.5 weight. Back shocks have 30 weight. I am also thinking about a different set of front Gold Dirt webs with open cell inserts instead of the firmer dirt tech inserts.

Before dropping weight on the nose, where is your camber link setting both front & rear? Shortest front and the "medium" from the original worlds rear bulkhead (must be drilled on the re-re) make the car rotate awesome. And yes, that was my indoor clay set up, with dirtwebs all around. Stock team shocks, #2, 32.5 f, 30 r brown front springs, green rear springs. ZERO weight on the nose.

JK Racing

What is the "Medium" Camber link setting you refer to on the rear bulkhead? I am using the hole that lines up under the wing wire tube. Where do you need to drill this "Medium" hole?

Let me try to get some pictures for you.

Thanks Rod...I've been super busy this week with vacation, havent even gotten my cars out of the box from racing to take pics yet

If the rear shocks are too far outside it won't allow the car to "roll" or "transfer weight"

Try moving them in one hole on the arm. Make sure you check droop though so the bones don't fall out of the cups.

Thank you everyone! Your tips are most appreciated. I had no idea there was a different style of bulkhead for the original worlds car, thanks for sharing the photo.

For me, the answer was lighten the front springs, add weight to the nose, and fabricate a rear sway bar setup. This has worked wonders for me. It used to just push straight into the barriers if I had any gas on it, now it turns much more predictably. I used sticky-back weights from O'Rileys.