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Please just move on if you get annoyed by my ignorance

I have a couple of old goldpans that have been collecting dust for years. I put them away when I realized I had no tools (imperial) to work on them....
But now, with the "remake" of a 4wd kit going on here at rc10talk, as well as rumors of a MIP re-release of their 4wd kit, it just started getting interesting again.

Since I never have been working on RC10's I do have a few rookie questions that I hope someone would donate some of their precious time answering

1. Are all "A"-staped goldpans the "Caddilac" variant? I have two A's, one with a deep stamp that is visible both from the top and the bottom, and one with a very shallow A, that is barely visible from the top. Are both of these "Caddilacs"?

2. Where does the "A"-stamps place themselves in the timeline/heritage of the RC10?

3. I have read that to mount a stealth tranny on a A-stamp chassis, I will have to drill some additional holes in the chassis. Does the re-released stealth tranny from the worlds car have the same screw hole pattern as the old stealths? Will the re-re stealths fit in the same way as the original stealths?

4. Do I need a stealth tranny to use the 4wd remake and the potential MIP re-release 4dw kit, or could these be used with the old 6-gear tranny?

I will come back with more questions later, I'm sure

Thank you for your time.
Tom

Hi Tom

Fellow newbie, here. It's my understanding that some "late" Edinger chassis's have the A stamp. By comparing other components you should be able to determine which version you have. All the info can be found in the following "excellent" thread:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13059

John

2) No stamp and A stamp were the same chassis, the no stamp are earlier but A stamps could still be edinger, Cadillac, even early CE. Rere are also no stamp so be careful purchasing on eBay!

3) a stealth will not bolt into an A stamp without drilling. AB stamp was the first to offer stealth holes. The rere no stamps are all drilled for stealth.

4) both MIP and the kit that Brian and I are working on require a stealth. Brian is working on a special case tho, it will bolt into the 6 gear holes and hold stealth internals. I'm sure the cases will be available around the same time along with the conversion parts.


Your cars may be worth more (financially or sentimentally) intact tho. It might be worth spending $100-150 on a used CE to get the proper arms, shocks, trans, etc. You can also pick up a rere worlds car pretty cheap now and they are also a good base for the conversions (need to swap the nose plate and trans case)

Thanks for the insight city.life and gomachv!

I actually believe my two goldpans are "bastards", with a mix and match of parts.

Here are some pics.

RC10 1
This one has a Andy's bumper. I only know because it says "Andy's" on it
RC10 2
This one has different shock towers than the first one. Also the bell crank is different. The front arms are Andy's, because they have the text "Andy's" on them
Could someone tell me what I have here? Are these "bastards" something worth restoring? Are there any parts on them that are in the "rare" category, and that is worth taking extra care of?

Thank you for your time, and I appreciate all help with this. Like I said, these have been in "deep storage" the last 10 years or so, because I was put off when I discovered thay had imperial screws

Tom

looks like two nice examples of the 6 gear CE. the 4 hole tower places the first as an early CE, the second if it came with that loose front end is a later 6 gear.

the second has a hot trick front tower, andys front arms, and a JG rear shock tower.

Thanks jwscab, now that I know a little bit more about them, it will be easier to know where to look in the excellent thread that city.life posted earlier!

gomachv, I didn't notice first what you said about Brian working on a special tranny case for the 4wd kit. I think I'll just wait for that instead of buying a stealth or re-re stealth case. I still need the gears, though..... but I imagine those should be quite easy to get hold of, with the re-release and everything.

Tom

can't see the rear wheels clearly, but I forgot to mention the fronts on the first appear to be maybe B4 wheels, the front on the second are HPI super star wheels.

jwscab wrote:can't see the rear wheels clearly, but I forgot to mention the fronts on the first appear to be maybe B4 wheels, the front on the second are HPI super star wheels.

Here are the wheels and tires. All tires are Team Losi, except for those on the HPI wheels, they are Pro-Line.

RC10 1
RC10 2
Thanks for your help.
Tom

...and I suppose the front arms are the short, and not the long versions?

the andy's are 'long' as well as the other arms, referred to as 'team' arms. the short front arms are really short.

take a really close look at that rc10 thread, many good reference pictures.

jwscab wrote:the andy's are 'long' as well as the other arms, referred to as 'team' arms. the short front arms are really short.

take a really close look at that rc10 thread, many good reference pictures.

Thank you, jwscab. That was actually what I was hoping!
The rc10 evolution thread is great, only a bit "overwhelming" for a rc10 novice. But I'm slowly getting there

Tom

Thanks to the kind people that helped me in the right direction, I have now concluded that both my RC10's started out as CE's. One early and one later.

One of them will be restored as a RC10 Championship Edition. I even think I have the correct, brand new, Protech II body somewhere.....

The other one I will use as a base for a 4wd project, as soon as the parts are released

Thank you all for your help.

Tom

EDIT:
Naaah... it wasn't a "Protech II" body I have, but rather a #6160 "Protech". I don't know the difference, but I hope it wil fit anyway