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Yo! I'm not very good with build threads, but I was encourage by JK to do one. So, we'll see how this goes and plan for lots of editing of my posts.

I basically wanted to try and build an updated RC10RM buggy to see if it can be as competitive as current buggies, period!
blah, blah blah.. here are the pics!

I will add more pics, descriptions, and links to used items as I can.


RC10 Worlds parts
Rere
- Front Pivots
- Rear Mounts
- Stealth Tranny Case(rear/mid switchable)
http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/6565/
- Motor Plate/Gear Cover
- World Car Towers(Temporary)


AE B4 Parts
Front
- Hex Conversion
- Caster Blocks
* 20deg Caster Block ASC9592 (Noseplate = 30deg kickup, these blocks "-5deg" put 25deg caster at the wheel)
- Steering Arms

Rear
- Hubs
- Hex
- Driveshafts

Turnbuckles
- Steering: Std B4
- Front Camber: 1.65"
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/1403/
- Rear Camber: std B4

AE B5 Parts
-FT Chassis Plate (hard), ASC91513
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91513/
-FT Chassis Cradle (hard), ASC91515
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91515/
- Chassis Brace, ASC91521
- Battery Foams, ASC91536
- Hvy Duty Ball Cup Set, ASC91453
-

-Front/Rear 12mm hex wheels

AvidRC
- B4 Clamping Hex Set
AV1002-SET

Schelle Innovations
- B5M Carbon Battery Strap, SCH1088


Shapeways Parts
Front arms
http://shpws.me/Gint
Rear Arms - require Rc10 Original Inner Hinge pin
http://shpws.me/Gmda

The steering bellcranks in the pic are these:
http://shpws.me/DW6d

















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Whoa....I encouraged someone.

Looks good. Chassis painted or powdercoated?

Plans for steering?

Electronics?

Stock or Mod?

Krylon Paint, for now. I wanted to see how it looked and get it all setup before looking into Powder Coating.

Steering setup
- Shapeways(shown above) or a modified B2/3 bellcrank(more akerman adj)
- I'm working on problem solving the servo mounting space, possible issue. When trying to use the B5 mount locations with these two possible bellcranks systems, the B5 servo mount cradle may be a touch too forward for the std RC10 steering location. I have few different configurations for steering/servo setup to look at, including wheelbase adjustment.
- I have a simple but very different steering soln too, but I'll use it on my other chassis. It to tough to put it on the RC10 tub.

Electrics
- I have a tekin RS Gen2 nib and ready to go
- Novak 8.5 BL or Trinity 13.5 BL.. I think my local track(160mi away) is running 13.5BL for 2wd buggy now, unless I run 17.5BL. Its a small tight track.. 12sec/lap
- spektrum 6070 LowProfile, waiting on USPS

-Body
I have a few ready for Paint, Classic, Turbo Mirage.. but I'm looking at a custom build for this too. Eventually.

I'm planning on fabricating new towers this wknd. I completely see what you were talking about, on how the towers for using Big Bores are very different.. Major pain!

Are you running the B4/B5 kit Big Bore on your car, or are you using a longer Rear Big Bore Shock on your RC10?
The AE SC rear BB shocks are the closest to RC10 Rear length.,

B4.2 big bores. I found the 'lowered' rear tower did not work for the big bores, I went back to a standard sized rear tower, and it is spot on perfect. Love it. Ill need to clean the car up this weekend and take some pics for you, showing droop and eyelet to eyelet measurements.

I love this!! kinda the same route I take with my cars. I like to build runners, stuff that I think will be fast. I'm really interested in the steering you come up with. What kit is the one pictured, with the inline ball?

josh wrote:I love this!! kinda the same route I take with my cars. I like to build runners, stuff that I think will be fast. I'm really interested in the steering you come up with. What kit is the one pictured, with the inline ball?

The steering bellcranks in the pic are these:
http://shpws.me/DW6d

If I decided to just trim off the B5 servo mount tabs, and drill to use B4 servo mounts, this steering setup is ready to use.
but, im waiting for my servo to come in before I do that. Its the same situation for the B2/3 bellcranks too. I'll post a pic with the B2/3 setup this wknd.

I've TRIED doing the shelf-queen thing, but its never worked. They are made to be raced!! My xx42 car is pretty much a self-queen now, bcz lack of belts. Otherwise, I would have never picked up my 22-4.

JK Racing wrote:B4.2 big bores. I found the 'lowered' rear tower did not work for the big bores, I went back to a standard sized rear tower, and it is spot on perfect. Love it. Ill need to clean the car up this weekend and take some pics for you, showing droop and eyelet to eyelet measurements.

Sweet!
Ya, I was looking at how my B4.1 V2 rears on the standard Worlds Rear tower look, and could not really see why I would need to lower the tower. The droop looks spot on as-is!

Pics and measurements would be great!

I've noticed that the Rc10 Worlds Rear tower is almost identical mounting positions to the B5r tower. The B5 tower just has a different slope from outer to inner hole, so that's one of the things i'm going to try in a new tower. Same with matching the slope angle on the B5r front too. Since the B5 angle doesn't raise the arm droop as much when changing shock angles... then maybe add wing mount holes.

awesome, thanks for the link!

Man those B5 chassis parts look like they were meant for the tub chassis! Nice work - any detailed pics of what you did to mount them?

Awesome!!

I didn't take any when I was actually do the battery cradle mod.

BUT, I will take some pics, Sat, showing the basics of what I did.
The only thing I cant show are the before/after dremel work..

Lookng good, thanks for the comparison pictures of the arms and the link to get them. Definitely made my weekend !

A quick electronics mock up.

My CF sheet arrived yesterday, so towers will be done this wknd!

Thinking maybe an esc tray....

Servo/steering don't work asis, may Chang the bellcrank arm mount position to allow full steering throw & servo clearance.

Will post pics to show cradle mod in the next couple of days.

The Cradle mounting pics & details. I will be adding descriptions to the photos through the day.

Tools for mod
- Drill Press
- Dremel w/1/4" sanding drum, lots of patience.
- Diagonal cutters


Procedure:
- Photo 1:
I have numbered the screw hole positions, of interest, on the B5m Batt Cradle & Nose.
Hole numbers 1 & 3 must be drilled through the topside side of the Battery Cradle, for Photo 2 needs.
The Battery Hold-down posts holes already go completely through the top and bottom of the cradle.

Note - hole #3 is not a necessary hole. It also requires to be drilled perpendicular, when drilling the hole completely through the battery cradle - the hole is originally an angled hole for mounting to the angled sides of a B5m chassis. And because I see it as being an "optional" mounting point, I have not included its use in these instructions.
1)



- Photo 2:
I insert (4) 4-40x1/2 FHS into the two non-countersunk holes along the sides of the tub chassis, then set on a flat surface.
Next, I place the B5m batt cradle inside the tub chassis to where the threads of those 4-40 FHS rest on the inside walls of the batt cradle - it helps to center the cradle.
Then, I push the cradle as far back in the Tub Chassis as I can, press firmly on the cradle, and use a drill bit to mark the position of "#1 holes".
Remove the Battery Cradle & 4-40 FHS screws from the Tub Chassis, and drill the #1 holes into the Tub Chassis.
Use (2) of the 4-40 FHS screw to now mount the B5m Batt Cradle inside the Tub Chassis - don't snub the screws down much.

Now, use the drill bit to mark the Battery Hold-Down post mounts, #2 holes.
Remove cradle, Drill the #2 holes in to the Tub Chassis.
2)



- Photo 3:
Segment "a", Assemble and connect the B5m nose piece to the battery cradle.
Next use the #1 & #2 holes to mount the Nose/Cradle assembly to the bottom of the tub chassis.

Segment "b", Now flip the tub chassis right-side up so you can easily see the B5m noseplate overlap next to the neck of the tub chassis.
Use a sharpie marker to outline the curve of the tub chassis neck on the B5m nose piece.

Segment "c", Remove the B5m assembly from the tub chassis, then separate the B5m Nose from the battery cradle. The nose is now ready to trimmed.
The area of the B5m nose piece outside of the sharpie line needs to be trimmed away to mimic the drawn curved line.
NOTE - the closer you get to the sharpie line, when trimming, take more time trimming to match the curve. Trim, then test fit inside the tub chassis, and repeat to desired effect.
3)



- Photo 4:
Show the Nose piece trimmed to the shape I wanted to go with.
Segment "a", bottom view of nose showing chassis mounting holes #5 & #7. I originally drilled hole #5(servo mounts) to aide in strengthening front/rear tub chassis flex. After lots of time spent evaluating how to mount steering components, I've decided that I should have drilled the #7 hole for use in chassis strengthening instead of the #5 hole.

Segement "b", top view of nose showing hole #5, and #4 & 6.. I wanted at least two points of the nose plate to attach to the tub chassis. To help with reducing flex in the neck of the tub chassis, and to help reduce flex b/t the B5m Nose/Cradle.. I don't really see much difference b/t choosing hole #4 vs #6. I just believe its better to choose two mounting points that are farther from each other, vs closer to each, when wanting to reduce flex.

Segment "c", is only to show the side of the nose after trimming, and what it should look like when done. Hole #'s are for reference only.
4)





-Photo 5:
Finished build of Nose/Cradle assembly mounted in to tub chassis.
5)

My steering Solution:
-Since I had already drilled the holes for the B5 servo mounts into my tub chassis, I want to do my best to figureout a way to use them and not drill any more holes.
Cutting the b5 mounts off and using B4 or B-Max2 servo mounts are a lot easier option, but this way allows me to securely mount the servo while still using the #5 holes to bolt B5 nose to the tub chassis.
- My soln; I used the B5 Blue Almn servo hangers to line up and drill a lower mounting hole in the plastic B5 servo mount, tapped with 3mm tap, & sanded 2mm of plastic off the front of the B5 servo mounts to recess my LP Servo. This gave me tons of bellecranks clearance while keeping the servo as far forward as possible.

- I will try an extended rc10 Nose plate with a zero mod B5 nose later on.


Shock towers are the next thing on the sketch pad! Then ball-links, electronics, and finally testing!!!!!!!!!!

Joey, I saw what you were saying about the Rear Rc10 shock tower. It is pretty perfect already for the BigBore shocks, no shortened tower needed!

















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- the current Drag Link is from a GT2. Its slightly longer than the RPM Rc10 drag link, and I was just curious what change in ackerman it made - last photo. I will most likely go with an adjustable drag-link for racing.

I've been wanting to try a brick pack in my goldie for a bit. I may need to borrow one and figure out how to mount it before taking the plunge and purchasing the pack. If I do...I like the B5 insert as a mounting option.