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I've been approached to do a Masami scheme by Asso man for his NIX91 build. I'm pretty excited to up my skills and this will be definitely the most challenging paint scheme to date.

Thanks Rod for hooking me up with the Viper body, the Associated high downforce wing (I know it's not the correct one, but closest I could get)and the Team Bluegroove YZ10 undertray.
My attempt of masking off the window mesh My progress for the night. I'm going to take the roof decal and make a template to paint it on the roof.

Photo log entry 2

RC10 logo on roof. The decal I had was too small, so I got innovative. Even though I know the roof is slanted and the photo is slightly skewed it will be very close.

This is the photo on the laptop
The difference in size
Stick it
Cut it

Done for the night

That's a very complex paint scheme...I was just thinking it would be so much easier for you if you used liquid mask. You already have the lines drawn on the outside, all you'd have to do is lightly free-hand score the curves in the liquid mask with an X-Acto knife. The other advantage is almost zero chance of paint bleed. Either way, good luck with the painting, that'll be sweet when it's finished!

I was waiting for the liquid mask subject to come up. It's just a matter of time before I try it out. I think if I had some experience using it, it would be better than masking tape in this case. I will buy some though and give it an honest try.

I had only one experience with liquid mask. I received a B2 body that was previously coated with liquid mask before hand. Apparently, it was unevenly applied and I made a huge mess on shadowing and had to toss the body.

I saved a photo and completed the painting...kinda, for shits and jiggles.

Very nice start Anthony, take your time and do your best, I know it's a challenging one, so I'll be forgiving!

Anthony, that's really strange what happened with that other liquid mask failure...it appears that it was put on way too thin, and maybe wasn't all removed before painting those sections. I actually read that liquid mask, if applied properly, can be left on a body for a good long time and still peel off perfectly, because I wanted to mask 3 or 4 items at once, but was only able to paint a few of them at a time, before going on a vacation. It has to be sprayed or brushed on pretty thick...maybe 3 or 4 coats by brush or 6 or more by airbrush. The thicker it is, the easier it peels off. It can be a real pain if it's too thin because it tears easily when trying to remove it.

Good luck with the masking & painting, should be a beauty when complete.

I'll second that. The worst mistake in liquid mask is to apply too little. It makes for huge headaches and I've also thrown out bodies because of it (although I have also salvaged bodies with DOT-3 as well). Also, I have painted bodies that had liquid mask applied and sat for several YEARS with no ill effects.


That being said, great job so far on this project!! Looks like an exact replica to me

One trick to get off thin liquid mask is to use a q tip...I have been painting a bunch of bodies for customers, friends etc lately and on occasion i get a thin spot. I just push that spot with a q tip and it pulls the stuff right up. After i go in with some rubbing alcohol to clean the area up to make sure there are no fuzzies. That is the best solution I have found to date.

It still looks better than any of mine!

vintage AE wrote:I received a B2 body that was previously coated with liquid mask before hand. Apparently, it was unevenly applied and I made a huge mess on shadowing and had to toss the body.

2012-12-08 17.11.02.jpg

Thumb, I'd send it to ya, but Rod threw it out

Thanks for the liquid mask tips guys!

The masking is done now, I'm gonna hit it lightly with black tomorrow after I get breakfast and enough caffeine in me... that's when I'm at my best. I just opened a beer to celebrate the completion of masking, I have priorities lol.

I'd be lying if I didn't say I was worried about the narrow black line between the colours, but fingers are crossed. I laid down a couple of light layers first so it should be fine. I can always use a micro brush for any touch ups as I go too.

Now that the shading is done, I'm going to wait until tonight to lay down the green. The black should be good and dry, although since I don't have to unmask anything it probably doesn't make that much of a difference.

As a side note, I thought it was odd that the body was shaded along the perimeter of the body. For fun I did the whole perimeter, it should match up once it's trimmed. Also since the windows were shaded, I did the rear ones too, even though the rear gets trimmed off. I might as well paint it like it was BITD before the original one was trimmed.

looks GREAT!

I was worried you would get some ghost farts (ie static effect) working with all that black in such a small area

There are some spots that ended up shaded but not anything you can do about it. It's still gonna rock.

Tonight's photo entry... green and black, complete