B1M
- Phin
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Re: B1M
Oooh. Nice idea on 3D printing a gear cover for mid-motor.
Something to think about for people doing mid-motor builds on a tub....the rear most 6-gear trans holes match up with the bulkhead holes on an RC10GT chassis and the rear most holes for the GT transmission on the GT chassis are in the same place that the holes for a Stealth trans are drilled in a gold tub when it's reversed for mid-motor.
So a GT rear bulkhead can be used for a mid-motor build and you won't have to drill extra holes in the chassis for the bulkhead. However, since the GT bulkhead is shorter than the RC10 bulkhead, you will need to get creative in order to brace the trans to the rear bulkhead.
Something to think about for people doing mid-motor builds on a tub....the rear most 6-gear trans holes match up with the bulkhead holes on an RC10GT chassis and the rear most holes for the GT transmission on the GT chassis are in the same place that the holes for a Stealth trans are drilled in a gold tub when it's reversed for mid-motor.
So a GT rear bulkhead can be used for a mid-motor build and you won't have to drill extra holes in the chassis for the bulkhead. However, since the GT bulkhead is shorter than the RC10 bulkhead, you will need to get creative in order to brace the trans to the rear bulkhead.
- mk-Zero
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Re: B1M
Thanks guys!
As for the rear, yes I hope to bring it to the same width some how. Fred says he's workign on similar arms for the rear. I may design up some if he doesn't do his soon, I'm getting antsy
As for the rear, yes I hope to bring it to the same width some how. Fred says he's workign on similar arms for the rear. I may design up some if he doesn't do his soon, I'm getting antsy
- mk-Zero
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Re: B1M
Correct. I was playing with the CVD's from my B44 a couple days ago, I think maybe I could work something out with them.Mr. ED wrote:That will mean you need longer dogbones UJ's or CVD's too.
Maybe someone should make a new design for rear wheels with more offset on shapeways.
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Re: B1M
I do have an early mockup of the rear arms. The problem is that I need to get them printed to see if they work as I hoped. An order placed with Shapeways is at least a 3 week wait and I haven't placed the order yet. I'll try to this weekend. If I get the parts in and they don't work as hoped, I need to modify the file and try again. I'll probably know enough after the first one to get a second one correct, assuming I'd need to revise it at all.
I'm designing them to work with B4 rear hubs and B4 cvd's. You'd just need to enlarge the hinge pin hole on the hubs to 1/8".
I'm designing them to work with B4 rear hubs and B4 cvd's. You'd just need to enlarge the hinge pin hole on the hubs to 1/8".
Raborn Racing Originals Shapeways store
- JK Racing
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Re: B1M
Unless you make a hub carrier as wellfredswain wrote:I'm designing them to work with B4 rear hubs and B4 cvd's. You'd just need to enlarge the hinge pin hole on the hubs to 1/8".
--Joey --
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
Vintage A&L and Factory Works
Old School Racer & Vintage RC Car nut
JKRacingRC.com
- mk-Zero
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Re: B1M
Last night i machined a rear arm from some Delrin i had laying around. I extended the arm in the area where the hub goes by about .35 inches and didn't drill and holes in that area.
That way i can play with different CVDs and hubs and see how they will work together to change the rear width and arm length.
That way i can play with different CVDs and hubs and see how they will work together to change the rear width and arm length.
- mk-Zero
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Re: B1M
I finally got around to doing some milling on the chassis, pretty much the last major thing i needed to do before doing final assembly.
Under the battery, i did a World's style H pattern, then i milled a recess for the ESC and the receiver to sit down in. This serves two purposes, removing weight, and lowering the cg. And finally i milled a pocket below the servo for weight reduction
with the electronics in place none of the machine work will really show, so i may still mill out on either side of the chassis like a World's car too, just to add a little more bling.
Under the battery, i did a World's style H pattern, then i milled a recess for the ESC and the receiver to sit down in. This serves two purposes, removing weight, and lowering the cg. And finally i milled a pocket below the servo for weight reduction
with the electronics in place none of the machine work will really show, so i may still mill out on either side of the chassis like a World's car too, just to add a little more bling.
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