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Thought I'd just post a link here to my thread detailing the 100% intact and clean removal of CA glued tyres from wheels using a Heptane based de-bonder.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=36724&start=30

outstanding. those are some awesome results.

Awesome, just bought some to test over the weekend!

I had no idea about the results before I had a go with the de-bonder so I'm happily surprised at the outcome but I'm actually more surprised that I couldn't find any mention of it being used for this purpose anywhere....

Everyone else appears to go with either boil, bake or acetone!

fakiee wrote:Awesome, just bought some to test over the weekend!

I look forward to hearing about/ seeing your results!

LosiXXkid wrote:

fakiee wrote:Awesome, just bought some to test over the weekend!

I look forward to hearing about/ seeing your results!

Me too, i will try and post my results. I've got a couple of wheel sets to get through

I used boiling before with some results, but it took the dye out of the wheels. Can wait to try your method. Good find on the Heptane!!

I tried boiling & freezing; neither worked very well. The acetone fume method works great, but you need to leave it sit in a sealed bag for 24 hours.

Coelacanth wrote:I tried boiling & freezing; neither worked very well. The acetone fume method works great, but you need to leave it sit in a sealed bag for 24 hours.

With the de-bonder you've just got to allow it time to work. Once it has softened up the hardened CA, the tyre comes right off the wheel. Then it's just a case of cleaning everything up which is actually the most time consuming part but it's certainly worth the effort.

LosiXXkid wrote:

Coelacanth wrote:I tried boiling & freezing; neither worked very well. The acetone fume method works great, but you need to leave it sit in a sealed bag for 24 hours.

With the de-bonder you've just got to allow it time to work. Once it has softened up the hardened CA, the tyre comes right off the wheel. Then it's just a case of cleaning everything up which is actually the most time consuming part but it's certainly worth the effort.

That sounds exactly how the acetone method works, just faster. And faster is better.

Coelacanth wrote:

LosiXXkid wrote:

Coelacanth wrote:I tried boiling & freezing; neither worked very well. The acetone fume method works great, but you need to leave it sit in a sealed bag for 24 hours.

With the de-bonder you've just got to allow it time to work. Once it has softened up the hardened CA, the tyre comes right off the wheel. Then it's just a case of cleaning everything up which is actually the most time consuming part but it's certainly worth the effort.

That sounds exactly how the acetone method works, just faster. And faster is better.

The thing for me that stands out with this stuff is that it doesn't evaporate like acetone does so you can actually work with it in small quantities.

True, but it might end up being more expensive than a capful of acetone from a big 1L can of it. The fumes aren't going anywhere when it's in a sealed bag, so evaporation isn't an issue.

if you have standard rubber tires and nylon wheels, they are not easily damaged by acetone liquid. I recovered a set of yokomo 834b wheels and tires that had been spray painted blue, yellow, white and red(about 8 or 9 rims). stuck them in a zip lock bag a pair at a time with some acetone, swished them all around, worked the beads loose, and spend a bunch of time wiping down the goo and paint. those were pretty bad. So it depends on how bad the parts are, the composition, and how much time you have to work the parts. this everbuild stuff seems to work pretty fast from your pictures!

I've been using acetone to debond

1L at home depot for 9.99

Then go to the dollar store and buy a rectangular sealed container

Also bought some cookie cutters to place the wheels on top to try the fume method. In my experience it takes long with the fume method.

I found though if you don't need the inserts just let them sit in the acetone for 12hr and remove tire then flip on the other side do the same.

Thanks for bumping up this thread, I had not seen it and it's very helpful.

Scott

I've been looking into sourcing heptane and found that the Coleman fuel has a high percentage of it. I need to stop and actually look at the ingredients to be sure.

Another source is Bestine thinner and solvent. It is 100% heptane and seems reasonably priced.