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I can´t help buying Bruiser´s

This one is pretty much unharmed. All it needed was some new paint, so in the brakefluid tub it went.
The new paint ended up foggy after hardening, so after 5 coats with the same result, I took it to the boilerroom and then it was all good.

Still missing a few details

Looks great. it could really use some clear coat to bring out the shine

I hate it when You say that

I polished the forward part before the last coat of paint, and it looked really nice and deep.
I think I´ll have a go at the clear coat when details are done - then it´s just to cross the fingers and hope that the different paint types doesn´t react too differently to the coating.

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DennisM wrote:I hate it when You say that

sorry

tamiyadan wrote:at this point, i would just buff out the paint as best you can, you can get great shine off single stage paint without the possible damage of a clear coat later on.
if you are using the bruiser decals, 80% of the body paint will be covered with decals anyway so it will hide a lot of paint problems and you won't have to deal with them.

sometimes less is more.

you can use turtle wax scratch and swirl remover or meguires or even lexan polish, you want a low aggressive polish to just make the paint smoother to the eye that will automatically make it shine without a clear over top. on models thinner paint tends to look more realistic, clear will also clog up the surface details more.

The wax I used was Turtle and it certainly had a nice effect on the paint - but phew, it would be easier just to coat it

Can I use Turtle wax (colourless) on the Bruisers windscreen?

shodog wrote:

DennisM wrote:I hate it when You say that

sorry

Is the Orange beast Yours? Or do You have an Orange Bruiser with a boat and trailer?

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I will warn you, if you didn't build up your paint layers to a decent thickness, be careful when polishing. Polishing is a destructive process (I know that sounds scary, but the fact is, polishing by definition removes material, although in very fine layers, to reach a gloss). Too much polishing on a paint-only surface can potentially bring down the color so you can see the bare plastic underneath. That's the very reason why people spray multiple clear-coat layers on top of the color layers, because when you polish, you're only bringing down the clear layers to remove orange peel texture and achieve your polish finish. The clear-coat layers are what protects the paint beneath.

So, if you're polishing your color without clear added first, proceed with caution--or you'll be repainting the color layers.

The problem is, polishing clear-coats is a very time-consuming, elbow-greasing process.

DennisM wrote:Is the Orange beast Yours? Or do You have an Orange Bruiser with a boat and trailer?

Yes that is mine. it's a high lift that's been painted with house of color Orange.

As for getting a high shine without clearing, I've read that others have used Future floor wax and have gotten a nice shine from it.

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Many Thanks for the inputs

I think I´ll go with the green turtle wax -
It shouldn´t be a problem with the paint thickness - somehow I managed to use the most of 1 1/2 can spray paint, which leaves me with about 600 ml of paint It can be polished with a screwdriver for that matter

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Yes, You´re right - two different things.

The only polish I have is Autosol, which is meant for chrome and other metals.

I remember using a product called Slipol on my 1/1 car after a paint repair, it worked well and took away the flimsey area between the fresh and the old paint. Perhaps I should buy one of those.

I´m not sure about putting on decals - It´s bone stock, apart from the stainless hardware I used to assemble the body, so putting on repros or re-release decals wouldn´t feel right.

I really like it - Kind of a Steel Blue.

Are the alloy wheels factory?

- Limestang

There is an article in this month's RCCA that just happens to cover the painting of a Bruiser.