RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Since things are a little slow I figured I would throw this out there.

First off, I'm not referring to value- this is from a collector and hobbiest point of view only! I am also throwing out the using of the parts to resell a car as original. This is how you feel about the car sitting on your shelf.




We know ReRe parts like the trans cases, chassis, and towers are obviously not "original" parts and wouldnt be used in a period correct build

What about the parts like the black battery cups, front arms, front suspension mounts that were never discontinued? The header card clearly shows that some are old and some are new, but the part itself can't really be identified as 1993, a 2003, or a 2013

Then, you have parts like the white battery cup that are newly remade from the original mold which is the same as the black cups were made from, and never discontinued. The only difference is the nylon being injected! Let's take it one step further- the Compaq gray trans case is identical to the original but a different color nylon!

I guess what I'm asking, opinions only, is how you feel about the different era of parts. I have personally decided I wouldn't feel bad using a new "ReRe" part that was made from the original mold in the same color on a build (basically just battery cups I think!). I draw my line when they are a different mold. I would not use the trans case as it's obviously different nylon


Opinions?

I wouldn't use a "Compaq" case on an all white parts build for the same reason I wouldn't use a black case on an all white parts build....though if I were dying parts a different color I'd use a new case instead of altering an original white one.

Some caster blocks and rear hub carriers weren't discontinued either, but do we know if the new white ones are from the original molds?

the new 30 degree castor blocks from the worlds car are new molds. not sure about those from the classic. i would think the hub mold (classic) would have to be new as well, since they are wide at the top like the 1.5's but are 0 degree.

all of the arms are technically from new molds as well. they are all marked L & R, and the wide track fronts have definitely been redesigned around the shock mounting holes.

for my own personal cars (shelfers - replicas / restos), i would not use any rere stuff except hinge pins, battery boxes and probably front arm mounts. though, original white front mounts aren't that hard to find. the more i think about it, i guess i would use rere trans parts too.

for stuff i would build to actually use, i wouldn't care what parts were rere's. there's really no reason to use new, original stuff for that.

I have a stack of new-but-pre-ReRe front long arms, susp mounts, battery cups, front towers, and front caster blocks all in black and I've been trying to decide how to organize them. I've been putting them with my old stuff as they are late originals but like I mentioned above...2013 versions of originals.

On a resto of an original stock RC10 I wouldn't accept re-re parts but I could let it slide on a replica build. Replica parts on a replica car has an appropriateness to it.

I'd also be fine using re-re parts on something like a BBT sprinter since it's more the sprint car parts that I'd want to show off.

I am probably in the minority but i could care less what parts are used on builds with only a few exceptions. If you are building an early edinger or perhaps an original worlds car, or some special era correct replica. I look at it financially. I would not justify paying 5x or more for 'original' parts for standard builds that used parts that at some point were very common. To be honest very few parts of the rc10 were ever 'special'. They have all gone through many revisions through the years and the re-re is just the evolution of that.

Regardless of where the molds were made or where the plastic is sourced. Fact of life now we live in a global manufacturing world. Do i love it? Definitely not. Do i care enough about my toys that i need to source the right 'era' correct parts? Depends on the project goals.

Now, that stealth rework was unfortunate and disappointing. I also don't see why the case needed to have a different formula either. Strictly based on color i would not use it for an older build. But if the color matched it would be a shoe-in. This is the 'USA' case I'm talking about. The re-re case is unfortunate due to the comedy of errors in gear and case tolerances. The top shaft debacle is a clear example of a quality control issue. Associated appears to be giving excellent support to fix it too, which is great to hear.

Glad to hear the opinions. I know everyone feels a little different and it's interesting to hear the reasoning. Nobody is right or wrong here

Marlo....I'm curious to hear your point of view because I know the ReRe quality (or lack thereof) left you sour on them, but I'm curious...if you were building a late black CE and needed a battery cup or front arms, would you feel right sourcing a part in a late model header? For example, a black cup set or arms from tower hobbies today.

My personal view on this question- Id use the current black cup set that never went out of production, but if it were a white CE I would not use the ReRe white cup. I don't know how to justify or quantify my view, but that's my opinion.

I'm with jwscab. Only thing I can say is, if its going to be a runner, use the rere parts!

The other thing is if the car was raced regularly, it certainly could and would have had replacement parts of any vintage. So any parts could be correct. Heck how did you get a steath at first? Drill a 6 gear tub with a template provided by associated!

The other thing i wanted to mention is i also highly agree that full disclosure is required if something is being hawked as original. Not that I personally care, but it's the morally correct thing to do. The thing is, if a buyer has a true interest, then that buyer should really know his subject inside and out and be able to tell.

For me personally, I prefer original parts. When dealing with black parts, such as wide track arms, battery cups, or what have you, in the blue header card....... I use them, or have. My stock on these types of parts were bought well before the Re-Re and consider them the same part as a USA flagged header, would I buy a blue header card now... no. I'm not 100% on how the "new" white parts are molded, but with the old stuff, you can tell right away. Old stock battery cups have 4 high mold dots in the cup ( just as an example ), not sure on the new ones. I'd rather have a very nice used part then any type of re-released part. As a collector, and vintage builder, purist, or whatever, I think the re-re was the worst thing to happen to this hobby. $$$$$ is NOT the motive, so don't go there. This is just my opinion guys, but I understand how these types of parts aid the vintage racer...... as costs can get up there for the "real" stuff, but to each his own. Before any back lash begins, remember, I'm the guy who looks for correct raised dot chassis screws, 4 stamped dots in certain screws, correct knurl on screw heads, when most could care less........ because over the years they did change! This what I enjoy, the hunt, the wait.... The buy
Cheers Marlon

Not gonna roast ya here Marlo, this is all opinion anyway. I know what you mean, it's not about the value for me either it's about the fact that I KNOW if it's not right and it will eat at me. For runners, it wouldn't matter

I've seen first hand Marlo's obsessive hunting for parts the lhs. Pretty impressive to say the least!

For me, I don't care about correctness because I don't build them to have them sit on a shelf (for the most part). Well I did build the RC10 classic for that reason and I'm still undecided about my world's re-re.

For ME, I just want a part that works. If there is a part that looks good at the same time, well that's just a bonus. But I'm looking for functionality and being able to run my car. If there are better updated parts that are not AE, then I will consider those too.

So I suppose I'm the 'anti-Marlo'

Interesting question, and one I asked myself several times while cleaning up the Team Car. I finally came to the personal conclusion that the answer depends on the car and the intent of the build. For example, if the intent is to restore a rare period-correct car for the shelf (Endinger, original Worlds, etc), then original parts might be the goal.

In the case of my 92/93 2wd buggy collection, my intent is to simply have shelf-quality representations of each of the flag-ship buggies that were on the market at that time. With that in mind, I was personally okay with having to re-anno the tub, and use a rere steering assembly and ball cups. It's not original, but it's a super clean example and fits my goal.

If it's a runner, I'd personally save the old stock and use the current readily available and cheap rere parts.

I feel it is best to always use correct original parts on any shelf queen NEW restoration. Keep in mind that some of the new parts are still 100% correct.

With runners, go nuts with rere parts!

As for using some rere parts on a build while you wait to find original parts. I think this is ok, but wright it down and keep it with the car. Cross off each item as you find it. God forbid you pass away some day, and your wife or children try to sell said items on eBay unintentionally not knowing they are 100% original. Only for some poor eBay squid to find out the hard way. It is up to us to keep 100% cars out there and to call out the fakes. Let us know when you see a fake by posting in the eBay/Craigs list forum! The seller of these things can also be put on the naughty list!

I keep all my parts in giant freezer bags with each car/truck labeled on them, the rere bag simply says rere so I never mix them up. If I get time in the future, I would like to create a thread IN DETAIL with pictures showing the differences between rere and old. The existing one is very poor.