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Hey so,

Flipping the rear end on a TRX-1 to mid motor configuration. Got a problem. Basically I have two degrees of toe out when I flip the arms to mount the shocks on the rear. Any suggestions? Adjustable toe setup? Different arms? Anything.

Thanks

Mark

You could make a plate to account for the difference by canting the rear arm mounts but I'm not sure if it would effect handling having the hinge pins at an angle. Might cause some odd handling.

I would talk to Jake or Niki about custom arms (Jake for Nylon, Niki for 3d printed)

you're talking about the toe-in right?
I've done this before: I think I just kept the arms in the original direction and drilled and tapped 3 new mount holes on the back of the arms

Pics of the build are here: http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=20092

Thanks for the input,

This is what I've got so far. Losi XXXcr rear arms, MIP CVDs, AE Slipper (STRC topshaft), Green Machine 2R. Lost some deck space and no clue on a body. Got some Lunsford bits and a gear cover on the way.
Mark

Haha this one is languishing pretty good.

Uh, I was wondering if anyone has any intel or thoughts on a HyperDrive set up. I've heard they suck, etc. Still interested and here's the deal: I didn't want to fiddle with a 4 gear or topshaft flipping, etc. so I was going to run a Green Machine 2R but also wanted the option of the belt drive and a conventional rotation motor.

Maybe I should get it closer to the test drive phase before all this HyperDrive mumbo-jumbo.

I've thrown up that idea a couple times. But you better use another belt type etc. The hyperdrive fine pitch belts are no good for offroad use. The pinion pulley just scrapes the belts teeth clean off.

I guess I am looking for alternatives to a HyperDrive. But a belt drive spur gear nonetheless.

So this is based on my original TRX-1 "lightweight" chassis from bitd. i really wanted to put some type of top deck on it at the time I guess. I figured what the hey if I drill it some more to attempt a mid-motor.

The electronics layout is the next deal. I was thinking about running a six cell saddle pack. I have some AE 3-cell battery cradles. Or I was thinking about a lipo? Plus, I don't seem to be high-speed enough to arrange some three gear setup and I have the REV. ROT. motor.


Ideas?

Mark

Why not mimic a modern layout instead? me says transverse shorty with speedo upfront, like XB2, B5/6, ... The TRX1 is already LWB anyway so it should be able to cope, assuming you'll run modern tires anyay. If you run vintage compounds on dirt, handling will be a handfull anyway, esp with MM3.

lovely little machine

Lonestar wrote:Why not mimic a modern layout instead? me says transverse shorty with speedo upfront, like XB2, B5/6, ... The TRX1 is already LWB anyway so it should be able to cope, assuming you'll run modern tires anyay. If you run vintage compounds on dirt, handling will be a handfull anyway, esp with MM3.

I concure. Looks like the Reedy Wolfpack 2s shorty is a pretty good deal. And I picked up a tiny 2ch SR210 rx. I will just throw the Dtrax Intellispeed at it for the esc.

Not too worried about low V cutoff. From what I can tell from some snooping around is that running lipo with brushed motor/esc combo is cool as long as you stop at the first inkling of reduced performance. Or is there a cheap noid light/beeper retro fix?

Ok then.

Mark

I'm sure you can find low voltage indicators if you wish so. Check with heli or airplane enthusiasts: they like to get an early warning rather than cut-off for obvious reasons.

Lipo alarms are dirt cheap on eBay and through online e hobby places like hobby king.

Hey thanks gentlemen. I was thinking about which body to run on this. I just dug out a TBG re-pop and trimmed it regular except for leaving the entire rear portion on. I just trimmed some clearance for some rod ends and the gear cover. It just looks like some stealth bubble pod back there. And I swapped in a 2600 series rear bulkhead so I could utilize the wing tubes. I still need to figure out ho to mount the body at the rear still though. And I need to wait a paycheck before I spring for the shorty and charger. Most economical 2s 3800 shorty and charger combo?
Mark

A contoured L bracket off the rear tower and body post will get you there.