RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hey all, I just received my B chassis RC10 last night, and one of the first things I noticed was the steering was binding. After undoing the nylon lock nuts I looked inside and sure enough the inside of the bellcrank tubes that fit over the 8/32 bolts is all galled up.

I for one cannot beleive that AE would use a threaded bolt as a pivot. This is some dodgy engineering!!!

Anyway, I want to retain the 'stockness' as much as possible, so I was thinking that this really needs to be fixed, obviously a ball raced bellcrank is ideal but has anyone fitted a thin walled tube over the threaded section and ream the bellcrank tube to stop it galling up?

Hows everyone else getting by with this?

It's worked since 1984, just run a drill bit thru it by hand to clean out any problems and then make sure you don't overtighten. The system works fine when built and adjusted correctly.

The worlds steering is a cheap upgrade and runs bushings or bearings. If you go this route make sure you run a tap thru the posts or it will bind

Funnily enough that's exactly what I did. I guess. I've come to expect more from steering assemblies working with newer cars, and being an engineer myself i know that using a threaded bolt as a bearing is a big no-no.

Still, like you say, worked since 84!

You would love what hot trick used!

Yeah I saw that on one of the pics, but it's not as stupid as it seems, using a bolt that way is basically a worm drive, it gives a good amount of bearing surface, but your tolerances need to be pretty good to use it correctly.

Fine for say, a 1" thread, but for 8/32 I can see that thing wobbling all over the shop.

Mip made a steering post kit for stock bellcranks, but they used a 4-40 screw to secure it to the chassis. IMO not worth loosing the 8-32 screws

So how does that work? Do you need to drill the chassis for the 4-40's?

no, they just replace the #8 hardware with #4 hardware and those posts. I suppose a steel #4 is stronger than an aluminum #8.