RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So I built a beat A stamp car into the CE I had as a kid, but with 12mm hexes and the trackwidth pushed out to ROAR maximum. Im using RPM ballcups and the newer style associated ball studs on the front and am having a problem with the inner camber link and inner tierod rubbing,. is there a shorter ballstud I can run or a thinner ballcup to try? Ive checked the front kickup and its at 25 degrees which since I have b4 hubs and carriers makes it easier to figure out caster. Also, is there a different front arm I can run with less trail? Id like to keep the arm length near 2". The more antiquated this car is the better I will feel about whooping the new equipment at the local track!

Associated does sell short neck studs, .20 or .020 (I dont remember which), I think they are from the TC3.

I usually massage my inner camber link ball cups a hair as well, and use the original (very small compared to RPM) ball cups on the inside of the steering. Helps with clearance issues.

Post up a picture as well, I'm sure others will have input, and a picture helps tons.

Niki sells race inspired bellcranks, both in standard and slightly shortened versions to combat this issue. Standard geometry with short ball studs and 25* castor blocks work but just rub a whisker. No problems with the worlds towers and 30* blocks. They also get the weight forward slightly to better balance the car.


http://www.shapeways.com/shops/nixconcepts

Yes! Those are the business! i have been wanting to do a transverse steering servo to move the battery forward anyway! I had started filing and grinding on a b4 bellcrank set but i was worried about the posts bending and didnt want to add a top brace. is it typical to have the battery as far forward as it will go? seems like with the lipo vs nicd it needs it up there.