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Heres my new build SG Coyote. Its the 2wd version with factory ball bearings and the upgraded diff parts. I don't know a much about it other than I got it for a fair price built it and shelved it.

Trey

Very nice . I'm in the process of building a 2wd version as a runner. (just need to pull my finger out and get some photos up)

There are a few 2wd's available on ebay at present.

Cheers

Thanks Wazza lol I hear you on the pictures, I keep most of my cars in my little boys room as displays. He's 9 months old, so I don't need to worry about him messing with anything...yet Unfortunately since he's in bed very early if I don't plan ahead no pictures lol

On a SG note, have you gotten as far as assembling the suspension arms yet? I had a lot of trouble getting the pivot balls in the arms, even ended up splitting a few of the arm ends in the process. My guess is the plastic the arms are made of had gone a bit brittle over the years. Other than that, I enjoyed building the kit. The diff is really cool, especially with the hardened parts mine came with. I am highly tempted to run it, but still up in the air about it.

Trey

When I built mine the balls were also very hard to get in but I luckily didn't split any. The worst part was the shocks and the upper shock mounts.

Hi Trey,

Yes I have done all the suspension now, just not the shocks. I was ok with the suspension balls, I just carefully pressed them in making sure they went in square. Afterwards I used bull nose pliers and gently squeezed the arms around the balls until they moved freely.

Yes the diff is excellent, you can see the 1/8th influence in most of the drive train. I too had the all steel diff.

I have all my radio gear in now, just making some little shock towers and working out what shocks to use. In playing with the kit shocks I decided to find something better as I want the suspension to actually work!

Cheers

Hey guys glad you all had better luck with the arms! As far as the shocks go, my shock shafts were a bit corroded, but I used the ruff side of a dish sponge pad thingy to polish them up a bit. Assembled them with some new 30wt AE oil, and they work great! I was shocked really, after building a similar vintage Kyosho kit with the red shocks, which can't even sit on the shelf without leaking But these guys are holding up well, and despite not being as pretty as the kyosho's don't have oily puddles under them.

Trey

The biggest issue I have with the shocks is that it needs softer springs and the kit ones are a very small diameter. In playing around any current 55mm length touring car shock will fit which means there is lots of spring choice. I am just looking for some plain silver ones to try and keep the look right.

Cheers

I just built a couple of coyote's and I broke 2 of the new arms. I then began polishing the suspension balls and everything is much smoother. No more broken arms and no more binding. I haven't finished the cars yet because the next project was tying to get the shocks to work properly. There's just so much binding

My problem with the arms was just keeping them from cracking. As far as the binding, did you use the squeeze trick suggested in the manual? By doing that I was able to get all of my arms working very smoothly.

Trey

Plastics parts in hot water around 20 minutes, and tap the holes before the screws

prp wrote:Plastics parts in hot water around 20 minutes, and tap the holes before the screws

I'd be wary of that suggestion; nylon can be freshened & strengthened by boiling in water, but ABS plastics can deform and melt...so be careful. Certainly wouldn't use boiling water, just warm water. Or a hair dryer might be safer?

....pretty sure it says to boil them in the manual

I'll get a pic tonight

My experience with the SG plastic has been just to make sure they are at a decent room temperature of say 20 degrees C and upwards and they are quite ok.

Cheers

Nice Coyote Trey. Good to see another one.

I'm putting together a 4WD runner with some mods for reliability.

Luckily, I had no problems with the suspension pivot balls splitting the arms. Some were quite tight in their sockets though and I did the same as PRP to loosen them up. I ran a long M3 screw through the pivot ball and used a nut to lock up the screw in the ball. The leftover thread was gripped in a Dremel and then spun at low speed to heat up the socket area. It worked quite well freeing them up nicely.

The shocks though, needed a hell of a lot of work to free them up. Build thread soon.

Here's my resto:

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=20503