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I picked up a brand new Trinity Green Machine 2 on Ebay and want to break this thing in right. Trinity recommends running the motor on 4V for 5 minutes with break-in drops and then spray the motor out and oil the bushings. When I was younger I remember people water dipping motors but was always afraid I'd mess something up by doing that. So...all you old school racers, what is the best method? Can you give me some step by step instructions?

Thanks!

I think the water dipping method was more for silver can stock motors. Those brushes were so damn hard that you need the water dip just to get a good shape to the brushes so they would perform their best. I raced Tamiya M05 mini class for a couple years. If you didn't break in your sliver can for this class you would be noticeably slower than others.

My experience is only with silver cans though, hopefully others will chime in. The softer brushes on the other motors shouldn't need as much preparation/breaking-in.

Dude, either way, I'm sure it's cool. I've done the H2O deal and I thought I would burn it up. Just something about electricity under water. Seems wrong. But it was fine. Makes a pretty sweet whirring sound. But when in doubt, follow the Fffff............actory recommendations.

Mark

Low voltage reduces arcing between comm segments which improves the efficiency of the comm, and keeps the motor fresher for racing. Water has a similar effect and speeds up break in keeping the motor cool... Break in drops do a similar job too. Not that it matters on your motor being fixed timing but reducing the timing to 0* for break in reduces arcing as well as run cooler. If the tips of the brushes turn bluish the lubricant in the brush is burnt and the brushes need replacing.

You'll also want to align the brush hoods and shim the armature so it's in its natural magnetic field prior to break in but the question arises. Why are you worried about proper break in on a brushed motor in this day and age?

Why? Because I have fresh stock motor that I want to run at its best. While I have had a love/hate relationship with brushed motors recently, I do enjoy running them and I very much enjoy being faster than the occasional brushless car at the track.

RC10th wrote:Why are you worried about proper break in on a brushed motor in this day and age?

Remove the brushes. Get trinity ag9 mod brushes. Trim 1/8 inch off the top of the brushes. With the brushes removed use your dremel to break in the bushings. Solder the brushes to the end bell. Install the brushes w one side cut up and one side cut down. Use trinity purple springs. Hook it up to your turbo 30 at 5v spray motor spray in it and lightly press the brushes with your Allen driver. When the amp draw flattens out pull it apart clean the brushes and com with a com stick spray the motor out with motor spray. Oil the bushings put a drop on both brushes reassemble and your ready to rock.

The Gweed wrote:Remove the brushes. Get trinity ag9 mod brushes. Trim 1/8 inch off the top of the brushes. With the brushes removed use your dremel to break in the bushings. Solder the brushes to the end bell. Install the brushes w one side cut up and one side cut down. Use trinity purple springs. Hook it up to your turbo 30 at 5v spray motor spray in it and lightly press the brushes with your Allen driver. When the amp draw flattens out pull it apart clean the brushes and com with a com stick spray the motor out with motor spray. Oil the bushings put a drop on both brushes reassemble and your ready to rock.

Wow dude! That's almost exactly how I used to do my green machines and co27s

Es

I run both brushed and brushless, and the brushless set up is soo much more friendly all around. No break in, no fouled comms, no melted power leads, no rf interference. no more regular weekly rebuilds. You do get longer run times. more power and carefree wheelin though. The brushed set ups work fine but the rf glitching can be a bit frustrating if your used to 2.4 and brushless.

The whole point of breaking in a motor is basically to shape the brushes to fit the comm and make better contact as most new brushes are square cut and the comm is round. You can run the motor at low voltage and the brushes will wear into the comm but you will need to clean the dust out after, one reason the water method works well is it keeps the dust from fusing into the comm by keeping the parts cool and just washing it away, rust and corrosion are the biggest downfalls to it though if you dont displace all the water.

There are several methods for break in, all of which work equally well. Personally I cut the brushes prior to installing so I have a minimal if no break in period. Im being very general and there is alot of differing opinions on the subject.

If your faster than a brushless set up with a brushed set up, than the brushless car is probably not properly set up.

If your going to run brushed set ups I would recomend investing in a brush cutter and comm cleaning sticks or lathe. Get spare brushes, springs and caps as well. keep in mind that brushed parts can be rare and can be pricey. in the end the initial less cost than brushless adds up in maintenance and wear and tear and the savings become a wash.

You should also consider varying the rpm rather than a constant so that a resonance doesnt set up and wallow or wear the new parts. this is important so that the bushings and comm stay true and dont wear unevenly

I had a green machine! Awesome!!

Thanks, that actually made me lol. TGIF.

Diamond Dave wrote:I had a green machine! Awesome!!

Try to get a waffle style brush cutter. In the 90's you could count on trinity to supply green machines as the handout motor at almost every big race for stock class. We would try everything to make them better. The one constant that everyone knew was AG9 brushes broken in by a waffle cutter. After that you would have a 100 different opinions of how to cut the brushes and what spring to run.

Btw this is a real green machine

The Gweed wrote:Btw this is a real green machine

That's the one I had. My younger brother had a Big Wheel.