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I got this car from my brother for my birthday. I've always been a fan of rc10's and I'm really excited to finally own one. I plan on racing this car in the 17.5 edm class at a couple oval events this year.


I've raced rc cars since 2000, when I get a new car most of the time it's just a new car. Unwrapping this one was really special, I felt like I was 8 years old again haha


Started the build. I want to get bearings for the steering, or maybe an aluminum setup. I'm using b2 caster blocks with king pin ball studs. This is something I've notice on a lot of modern oval cars.

I assembled the transmission, the case half's didn't fit very well and it feels really notchy, any advice on that would be appreciated. I read on here that a b4 top shaft will fit and allow different clutch setups? The inboard slipper plate rubs the motor plate now.

Yup lots of problems with a batch of top shafts. Get ahold of associated for a replacement The trans will probably still be a bit rough but allegedly they free up quickly. If it were mine I'd grab the USA version trans case and idler, call it a day!

thanks, I'll look on eBay.

I want to make a body similar to this one. I love the sprint car style front end.


Here's his thread http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=26873

There should be lots of EDM body kits available.

Case shows out of stock at associated, but they may be out there
http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/6565/

The worlds case is supposed to be better...but I don't like the sound of the fitment

There are for sure, I have a couple afx fab bodies for my scmod's which are awesome but think this one looks more appropriate on a rc10
wouldn't a current replacement case be the same as what's in the kit?

No, the kit is a new engineered piece that has webbing and uses a b4 idler, known as a worlds case. The stealth kit sold separately uses the 6565 older style "USA" case with removable spacers and earlier style idler.

Here is a thread showing the differences
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=35116

I read through that thread, it's comparing original world's and stealth cases. The info on the rere casee is similar to mine. Does the b4 top shaft fit either case?

It's comparing original stealth, ReRe USA stealth retrofit kit and ReRe worlds stealth (which you have). The original and ReRe stealth can be mounted mid motor and look alike. Yours has the posts made in and uses the later idler. Same top shaft. It may not be an issue though, especially once broken in and once you have a good topshaft

ok cool, do you recommend breaking in the gears with toothpaste

Per Tim @ Team Associated, just use grease

Patiofurnituregt wrote:

harvey wrote:Has anyone tried breaking in the tranny with toothpaste yet? I think I'll try it with bushings installed when mine arrives.

Just use the diff grease and you'll be fine after a run or two.

A guy 30 minutes from me makes these EDM bodies.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DIRT-OVAL-MODIFIED-EDM-BODY-KIT-TEAM-ASSOCIATED-RC10-/360845444088?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item54041083f8

http://www.ebay.com/sch/nckippy/m.html?item=360845444088&hash=item54041083f8&pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562

Lynn

I've been getting parts together to get this car finished, the event I want to take it to is the 3rd weekend of July.

I got a set of gold rere shocks because I like the color. I machined the top of the body smooth like I've seen a couple kinwald cars and made the shock collars and spring retainer from white delrin to use avid bb springs.


Got the chassis and motor plate trimmed down. I didn't try to perfectly index the dimples because the spur covers most of it, thought it turned out cool.


Reedy Mach2 matches this car pretty good, I'm thinking about getting a d3.5 for the race. Mip aluminum top shaft and avid clutch. I got the stealth trans nip off ebay, the top shaft was correct this time but the case half's didn't fit any better than the worlds case.


With the motor plate attached to the chassis the holes for the trans are to far rearward, is this normal? I think I can shim them apart to get trans holes to line up but the angle is still off.

attach the case to the tub first, then shim the kickup if it's needed. should wait until everything else is in the car first though (bulkhead, trans brace, etc.).

dillonhoffman wrote: With the motor plate attached to the chassis the holes for the trans are to far rearward, is this normal? I think I can shim them apart to get trans holes to line up but the angle is still off.

Your over thinking things and making problems were there aren't any.

You need to attach and tighten the bulkhead first at all of its attaching points to the chassis, then put in all 4 screws in loosely on the tranny (only a couple turns), the same thing for the four screws on the top brace, and finally the same for the 2 screws for the rear plate to chassis.

When all screws are in then go ahead and tighten the 4 tranny screws first, top brace next, then go ahead and tighten the rear plate screws last, the chassis and rear plate will draw in together last.

You never ever tighten screws fully together on assembly's like this, it only gives you problems like your finding out.

Lynn