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Recently I pulled my RC10T2 out of the attic and blew the dust off. I did a fairly comprehensive rebuild including a Castle Creations Sidewinder3 ESC, and an accompanying 1406 4 pole brushless motor in 4600kv. Now my drivetrain is destroyed. I need to say that I have done a V2 conversion to the Stealth transmission. If I lock the differential all the way down, and lock the clutch all the way down I still get ALOT of slippage in both. What can I do? I do not race the truck and its only for bashing and tooling around on pavement, grass and dirt in the backyard. Would a new build of the differential help? Is there a different differential I can go to? What about the clutch? Is a VTS slipper clutch a better solution? Should I just get rid of the slipper all together and run a slipper eliminator? I am completely new to brushless motors and LiPo batteries so any information is welcome. It seems that this new motor technology is way more than the Stealth transmission technology can handle...

Thanks
Jeremy

First you need to know what is slipping. The easiest way to tell- hold both rear wheels from turning, and try to turn the spur. If the nut spins with the gear, your diff is slipping. Take it apart, inspect for damage, rebuild (t2 is same as gt, diff rebuild pieces should be easily found) and spend some time properly rebuilding. Make sure the slipper is the only thing slipping.

For one a 4 pole is overkill for a T2. Usually when both are cranked down and it still slips is a melted diff center.

A broken axle drive pin or stripped wheel can cause similar problems

Good point on the wheels too, back in the day we would see that occasionally but with the power of today's motors....I could see it being an issue

Thank you for the replies. I took your suggestion and put the truck on a rubber mat and held the wheels tight to the mat. I attempted to spin the spur gear and it was tight, with no slipping. I assume this means that the differential is tight? I did take an open end wrench to the clutch, and got about another turn of tightening into the clutch…. I don't know.. Im waiting for the battery to charge so I can go test it out some more. I have much adjusting to do in the suspension and steering still...

Loosen the clutch back up. It's the fuse in the system, the tighter it is the more likely you'll take out the diff.

So, when you held the tires and spun the gear, did you get anything to slip? Something should be slipping! Tires glued?

Correct. When I put the rear wheels on a rubber mat, and held the wheels tight to the mat there was no slipping in the system once I spun the spur gear..

It seems that this new motor technology is way more than the Stealth transmission technology can handle...

Not at all. I have hammered 2.25:1 stealths with 4 pole 550 motors on 3S lipo, and 2.60:1 GT steaths with 42x68mm 1/8 scale motors on 4S, as well as .32 size nitro engines. In the latter, I did end up putting RRP metal gears in them, and had no issues after that.

As GOmachV said, your T2 uses GT internals, so you can get all the upgraded stuff from Thorp/RRP/Etc. to make it really tough. A 2.60 stealth with RRP gears can take more power than the axle shafts will, trust me. That .32 powerd GT had no slipper, and would break dogbones or cross pins in a heartbeat.

Your truck should be just fine with that castle motor once you get it dialed in. My T2 was running a Reedy 550SL 3,500KV 4 pole 550 with an AE SC900BL ESC, had no trouble. My 10T (2.25:1 stealth) has a Hobbywing 10 turn 36x50mm can, will wheelie on demand at any speed under 25 MPH; I've only had to replace the idler gear once. Probably has seen north of 60 hours run time with that motor (which, though 2 pole, seems to be more potent than the Reedy 4 pole is).

Thank you all for the advice and suggestions. I think that after some more research and reading I am going to do some upgrading to the drivetrain while this setup is still together. I think a 2.60 transmission and a VTS slipper clutch setup is going to be ideal here. Are there any links to write-ups and parts lists to do these conversions?? Thanks again everyone.

The T2 already has a 2.6:1 ratio transmission. The stock clutch is also fine as long as the pad isn't too glazed.

really, you need to download the manual for the T2, and take the trans off the chassis, completely split it up into parts, replace what looks worn out, and rebuild as per the manual, except for one part: when you go to tighten the diff bolt, get everything aligned and start the screw until everything starts to snug up, and continue to rotate the diff back and forth as you creep up on the diff setting. rather than go full tight from the get-go, tighten it in increments, this will make sure everything is aligned and lessens the chance of flat spotting the thrust and diff balls.

when rebuilding the slipper, you can rub the friction pad on some medium grit sandpaper to de-glaze and give it a fresh surface.

also, as mentioned before, get those wheels and dogbones/axles and look closely for any damage or lost pins.

All the B4 diff parts are compatible with it as well as the top shaft. The idler gear is the only part that came off the 2.25 stealth.