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I've been interested in building one or two of these for a while now so here's the early beginings The plan is for one runner and the other a shelfer both being open ended projects with different parts and setup.

It was a tough project to get started since since certain parts don't exist so I knew I had to tackle that first. I began with drawing up and machined the necessary shock towers and a battery strap. The design influences are obviously Associated Worlds with some Fibrelyte touches included. The battery brace came out pretty cool too, it's a simplified version of the stock t2 brace.

With that out of the way I can start assembly and focus on the next major hurdle, the custom body. I've always wanted to design a buggy body so here's my opportunity. I'm moving right along with that in a short time, soon I'll be ready to pull a few. I'm sure after the body is done the final part choices and details will fall right into place.

The photo is of the shelfer - nose, chassis and the custom pieces produced so far...

Are you gonna shorten the tub?

Not sure, it's pretty damn long as is. The runner is almost together, I'm going to take it for a spin and see how it drives I'm guessing it's going to push bigtime If it's length is totally out of race spec I think I'll feel compelled to shorten it somehow. I have a ton of parts set aside for this, it's been pretty fun so far.

I do like what you did overall, with the nose piece to shorten it upfront and then the redesigned bulkhead to shift the rear tower more forward - excellent thoughtful engineering going on there I'm planning to keep the 2.6 tranny though.


Here's the start of the runner with the first run of my prototype towers mounted, planning to stress test those the fun way

The runner is together minus the body The main problem I ran into was the rear mounts and arms... due to the rear kick you have to mount worlds arms in the short position (unless you shim the mounts) and due to chassis clearance you can't use old rear arms at all unless you trim the down The good news is the wheelbase on this is right at 292mm which I believe is the ROAR limit I still have more refinements to do so I'll post another photo later after work. I'm hoping this weekend the prototype body will be done *fingers crossed*

i use the old style mounts on mine, they just have no front/back adjustment. but neither do the "t2" mounts.

you could drill and countersink new front holes in the tub behind the existing ones is you really wanted to though.

I'm planning to keep the arm mounts as is since that's what seems to help give me the legal ROAR wheelbase. I ordered some re-worlds arms to use, new arm mounts and a tie rod set to use. I may try some 30 degree castor bocks, but these old ones seem to be fine. The wheels will probably be B3's, I'm digging those out now. I'm not sure what to do to the chassis, might strip it and clean it up to get powercoated?

As for assembly the front end was pretty straight forward, however in the rear I had to throw parts at it to see what stuck I had to do 1.02 bodies with 1.32 shafts with 2 limiters mounted to lower outer and upper inner to get the UJ's to line up ok with the t2 transmission. I'm guessing the outdrives are a bit too high? That part was kind of tricky, but it seems to be ok with such short rear shocks. I might try 1.18's, but we'll see how this goes for now. The drivetrain will probably change too since I doubt these used UJ's would last long with brushless power. Taking it for a quick spin in a bit, should be fun

I know your still going, but just a FYI...
1.02 shaft + 1.32 body = worlds setup
1.32 shaft + 1.02 body = bent shafts

I don't know why I did it backwards, I suppose I'll have to fix that Despite that and a few minor details, I ike it alot and it did run pretty good in the backyard I need to get that body done or at the very least modify something to fit ASAP

those universals should take the brushless power just fine. sixtysixdeuce runs crazy 3s + mod motor on one of his rc10s and those old asso universals seem to be okay!

teman wrote:I'm planning to keep the arm mounts as is since that's what seems to help give me the legal ROAR wheelbase. I ordered some re-worlds arms to use, new arm mounts and a tie rod set to use. I may try some 30 degree castor bocks, but these old ones seem to be fine. The wheels will probably be B3's, I'm digging those out now. I'm not sure what to do to the chassis, might strip it and clean it up to get powercoated?

As for assembly the front end was pretty straight forward, however in the rear I had to throw parts at it to see what stuck I had to do 1.02 bodies with 1.32 shafts with 2 limiters mounted to lower outer and upper inner to get the UJ's to line up ok with the t2 transmission. I'm guessing the outdrives are a bit too high? That part was kind of tricky, but it seems to be ok with such short rear shocks. I might try 1.18's, but we'll see how this goes for now. The drivetrain will probably change too since I doubt these used UJ's would last long with brushless power. Taking it for a quick spin in a bit, should be fun

also if the outdrives are too high, couldn't you shim the arm mounts?

I fixed it since my last post The universals fit a better now, 1.32/1.02 combo with 2 thick shims on the shafts. I have some new CVAs so I'm probably going that route.

I still need to get back to that body, i've been slightly distracted with my new router

looking good, get back on that body, it is gonna look sweet!

I'm surprised you see an issue with the rear u-joints with the factory parts. However, since the diff sits slightly higher and the drive cups are higher, i suppose that could make a buggy universal slightly short. You can avoid this by moving to the rpm or losi carrier that puts the axle higher in the hub which will make the bone effectively longer, as well as change the bone telescoping to possibly almost zero.

unfortunately, rpm has discontinued them? wth.

I only have one set of 3 degree rpm mounts, those will go on the shelfer. If I find a used 3 degree set I'll put them on the runner. I have a used rpm zero degree set I could use but after running it, I think 3 degrees total toe is better. I don't recall what castor blocks are up front but I believe they are 15 degree? It turns pretty good despite it's length.

I know John I need to get back to the body, maybe this weekend? The good news is I should my nip motor plate and guards here any day now

The body I've been working on has been holding things up so for now I retrofitted a used b3 body / wing and tossed in some electronics to do some runs. I might grab a new one to try out to see if I can fit it better up front? I did change a few other things on the runner since I last posted too like...
new worlds rear arms; swivel turnbuckles; worlds-esque battery strap (fits t2 bulkhead); mip steering; b4 gear cover; 3 degree hubs with 0 degree arm mounts; undertray; RPM bumper...

Overall I think it ran great and super fun to drive! I'll have to get some vids for you guys to check out. Some photos, sill a bit dirty from last week