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This is a project I've been wanting to do for quite some time. I had originally planned to use a pan car but after seeing several RC10s built on the BME chassis I decided to have a go at it. Winning a pair of Mini-Mags that fit the RC10 was also a deciding factor. This will be a learning experience for me as I've never built an RC10 let alone a highly modified one. I'm hoping you guys will give me your two cents on what I've done and point out any glaring errors. I also have a few noob questions to ask along with advice from the experts out there. I've been digging around the forums a lot so hopefully I won't bug you too much with the same old noob questions. Anyways here I go!

I'm stealing quite a few of my visual ideas from this car. My version will be more simplified though with the engine area faired over. I'll torch together some headers and add a nice filter box for the engine details. I'm going brushless on this one so I could also mount the esc with it's fan sticking through the radiator area. Would be cool if I can pull it off!




This is just a rough mock up with lexan scraps to see if my ideas were feasible. The body will be mounted low and a front nose/wing will be cut from carbon fiber. Brass tubing will be soldered together to form a cage plus nerf bars and bumpers. Probably cut down a Custom works sprinter wing to finish it off. Everything is still in the planning stage at this point. I mistakenly ordered soft brass tubing instead of hard so it will be another week before I can start on the cage. This is what I have so far.


Parts: BME LTO chassis, Assoc truck nose, Klein long arms, B44CVA kit, Custom Works carriers and spacers, Assoc. spacer, all new re-re pins, worlds bulkhead, six gear trans, RC10 front axles and RC10 front castor blocks and knuckles (not shown). Lots of gold anno parts from dhawk are inbound. I'm still undecided on the shock and tower setup.


Foams are 1/8 Novarossi on the rear and 1/10 Corally on the front. The rears need more stretching before they can be glued and trued but they will fit the wide Mini-Mags.



Questions:

1. I take it the re-re six gear internals are safe for a mild brushless setup? I know the original six gear was not that great from what I've read.
2. If I use re-re six gear internals do I still need to perform this mod? http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8834
3. Any of you oval guys have an opinion on shocks and towers? I was thinking worlds front tower and DS rear tower. Also thinking about using RC10 front shocks on all four corners. Anything better you would recommend? This car is for carpet or asphalt only.

Feel free to add any other comments you may have. Good or bad I do value your opinions .

I have a bolink shorty rear tower template so I can whip u one of them out quick if u want it. Perfect for short front shocks on the rear. The Mcallister kit is ok too but looks kind of cheap

the front because of the truck nose im not sure what will be best for you there.

gomachv wrote:I have a bolink shorty rear tower template so I can whip u one of them out quick if u want it. Perfect for short front shocks on the rear. The Mcallister kit is ok too but looks kind of cheap

the front because of the truck nose im not sure what will be best for you there.

That would be great! Let me see if I get any more suggestions before I hit you up for that bolink rear tower. I could always mod the stock RC10 front tower to fit the truck front too.

Tough car to take on for sure. Super mods are crazy designs, cool stuff, way out there. Have fun with it, and don't forget...you need stagger!

Stagger and radical offset!

I think I'd be happy if it just looks like one at this point. Stagger is possible though.

@gomachV I'm go for that rear tower and I'll send you a PM shortly.

Today I'm going into the shop and will fab a carbon front tower and a few other bits. I'm going to start on a list of parts I need too. There will be lots of Lunsford titanium on this machine! Also might drill the chassis for a stealth and ditch the six gear. We shall see.

It's my understanding that stagger only works with a locked diff.

Very cool project! I look forward to following this one. I think a custom made front tower to run touring car shocks would be the go and less obtrusive.

Stagger will kill a diff, but on a supermodified or sprinter you need it to get the look right

RC10th wrote:It's my understanding that stagger only works with a locked diff.

Very cool project! I look forward to following this one. I think a custom made front tower to run touring car shocks would be the go and less obtrusive.

I've thought about that too. I'll try to make my front tower as unobtrusive as possible whichever shocks I decide to go with.

Actually the picture in my head when I see a supermodified they are a solid axle and upright shocks that are prominent. I know your on the route to run a-arms, but a vertical short shock would look pretty good, and you could build a tower that is triangulated out to the shocks to replicate that supermod look.

very cool, i have one of these chassis that i can't figure out what to do with.

one thing is for sure, they are not rigid at all and will benefit from an A&L stiffener kit.

The BME chassis is supposed to have support rails that run from the rear bulkhead all the way to the front kick-up (they replace the nose tubes). Since you're already welding some brass tube for the sides why not use brass tubes for the chassis rails then at the front (where the nose tubes usually are) weld on some uprights to act the front shock tower.

Something like this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ac/ISMA_Supermodified9.jpg


Also I'd use smaller bore shocks like Deltas, pan car micro shocks, or even 1/18 scale shocks for a more realistic look.

Phin wrote: Also I'd use smaller bore shocks like Deltas, pan car micro shocks, or even 1/18 scale shocks for a more realistic look.

If your not trying to stay era correct, the 1/18 idea for shocks is perfect. Great price and size

Phin wrote:The BME chassis is supposed to have support rails that run from the rear bulkhead all the way to the front kick-up (they replace the nose tubes). Since you're already welding some brass tube for the sides why not use brass tubes for the chassis rails then at the front (where the nose tubes usually are) weld on some uprights to act the front shock tower.

Something like this: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ac/ISMA_Supermodified9.jpg


Also I'd use smaller bore shocks like Deltas, pan car micro shocks, or even 1/18 scale shocks for a more realistic look.

I'm already planning to run full length brass tube down the chassis for support. I think I'll give the front uprights a shot too. What about TC3 threaded shocks?

This is how I'm planning to run the support tubes. Credit to whoever this belongs.

gomachv wrote:

Phin wrote: Also I'd use smaller bore shocks like Deltas, pan car micro shocks, or even 1/18 scale shocks for a more realistic look.

If your not trying to stay era correct, the 1/18 idea for shocks is perfect. Great price and size

I've thought about those too. I'll start working on some ideas today. I guess this won't be a quick build project.