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Hello guys, I need some expert help!
Basically I'm building a brand new T2 from scratch and I would really like to know what exactly you would recommend for the T2 tranny. I have a new T2 case coming but I'm not sure what the best options would be for the rest of it. I want to keep the 2.6 ratio, but other than that I'm up for your recommendations. I've heard of various top shafts, slippers, etc, but have no idea what the best route would be.

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it!

Nobody?

Mine is mostly stock, just used B/T4 diff parts and outdrives instead of sourcing originals. Personally, I don't feel that it's necessary to do anything else to it modification wise.

Yeah I just ran across a part number that will save a bunch of money vs buying all the parts individually.
7678 which is a complete diff assy with outdrives and includes:
7664, 7666, 7667, 7668, 6575, 6573, 6589, 6574, 6581, 6582, 6591, 6588.
Based on the best prices I could find anywhere all these parts would normally cost $46 or more, but with this part number I found all of this for $24.10! (almost half off!)
I'm working on what all I need for the rest now.
I'm not really looking for modifications to it, just want to get the better parts weather they are Associated or whatever to bring it up to date. Remember I'm building this tranny 100% new from scratch. I think it's gonna come out about the same as a used one that who know what all would be worn out on it.

If you can score it for a good price, the complete gt trans is also a great option. It gives you the diff plus idler, top shaft, slipper etc. Just toss the case.

Part number 7671

Last one I got for $50 on closeout

Thanks, just searched... best price I found was $75 plus shipping.
Think I'll stick with my original plan.

Guess you missed the part where I said I'm building a BRAND NEW T2?
The trannies on FLEABAY are worn out, beat up junk and they still want $40 (after shipping) or more.
I'll have a 100% brand new T2 tranny with the B4 shaft and slipper for a little over $50 by building it all from scratch although it has taken a lot of work to source all the parts.
Thanks though...

Ahh okay

The T2 tranny is almost unbreakable.
Don't use any grease or lubricant, just the associated ceramic grease for the ball diff and that's all.
I completely disassemble my tranny last year, my truck is a 95' T2 if i remember and it has been parked for almost 10 years. I just disassembled,
clean the tranny and rebuild it with new grease.
I use it with a 3520 kv 4 poles and a 9,2 / 1 ratio without any problem.

except if you want to put it on a shlef and have a complete brand new T2 there is no use to spend buck on it.

V+
Laurent
PS : sorry for my awful english ...

OK, so I got all the brand new parts in to build my stealth T2 tranny, the top shaft is an MIP 12156 aluminum shaft for the B4.2/B4.1/B4, T4.2/T4.1/T4, SC10 according to the MIP package.

Supposedly this is a straight swap into the case?
The built in spacer on the MIP shaft won't go through the T2 bearing or case where it exits for the slipper. What am I missing? The bearing and hole is only 3/16, yet the shaft is 1/4 where it needs exit the case.

the ae 9601 topshaft is the only "straight swap".

one of our members milled the spacer down to the 3/16" (removing it). another drilled out the case and used a 1/4 x 3/8 bearing.

Well that sucks!
I guess the 1/4 x 3/8 bearing is the best option, I really don't want to mess with the shaft. Didn't want to cut the case either, but now that I just got 2 brand new additional T2 cases I won't mind opening the hole up a little over 1/4.
Thanks for the quick reply!

While I'm asking for help, and you sure know what you're talking about, do you know if I actually need the axle bearing spacers if I'm using the RPM T2 carriers? I measured .100" between the 2 bearings, so if so I need to find 2 spacers that are .100" thick by 3/16 ID and the OD has to be less than .400"

Well that actually was very easy to do, I had the right bearing already, so just popped it in and used it as a guide to slowly run a 1/4" drill bit through the case so it lined up dead center, then just used an "F" drill bit to open it to .257" for clearance. 5 minute fix...
Thanks again for the help!

ae clear silicone on the diff balls, ae black grease on the thrust balls.
set diff by the manual, check, and roll....