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Well when I was putting a batch of parts in the hydrogen peroxide bath, somehow I wasn't paying attention and threw in a white RPM bulkhead. So had it outside for a short while and brought it in so it wouldn't freeze. That's when I noticed a slightly yellow part. Agh. Dumb@ss. Any way to bleach it or am I stuck dyeing it black?

Is it just yellow, or opaque and chalk looking?

Best bet is to boil it multiple times to draw the peroxide out of it, you can also try the rit dye remover.

Make sure you dump the water after each time you boil.

This information was gleaned from another post that someone accidentally peroxided RPM stuff and managed to get it mostly back to white with boiling.

Chris

HI!... I've H/P'ed tons of white RPM parts in the past. I've never had a problem with them turning yellow? But I also use a 35 watt pure ultraviolet light on mine.

JUST let it sit in the sun after boiling it.It has to finish leaching out the peroxide.don

So here is why I asked my first question- peroxide treatment on white RPM parts normally makes them look like chalk, instead of that nice semi-translucent RPM white. If they are now like chalk, I've never seen them come back.

Degreasers detergents and bleach do this- but through a series of steps you can get them back... But Its not a matter of getting the peroxide out, that creates a chemical change to the material, and can't be undone. The yellow is just physical-

I washed some worlds arms in peroxide by accident... I thought they were junk and left them sitting on my bench in the garage through the summer... they turned white again after a few months of super hot garage days. they were pretty dang yellow too. Don't really know if heat had anything to do with it, Cus I have read on here somewhere to just leave them on your bench for a while...

Its only a guess, but it probably averages around 115-120 or so in my garage during the summertime. I periodically check with a temp gun... The highest I have seen is 127.

(My house faces west, my garage door is metal, I live in Phoenix (Area), that's why, )

Ya know, I washed all the parts with CLR first than the bath. I bet it was mixed in there the whole time.

That's going to be a very long shot-

Well I guess we can just dye it black then. Since I have a ton of black parts. One day I'll work on tracking down more white parts.

Perhaps it was more the heat that slowly cleared the yellow in the boiling procedure? No idea I just read about it in another thread

Chris

HI!... I notice a lot of you just soak the parts in H/P. That's very slow and gets so-so results. You need to saturate the parts/H/P in pure ultraviolet light. That's the key. The U/V light has a chemical reaction with the H/P and speeds up and increases the whitening process. I run a 35 watt U/V light in a desk lamp inches off the top of the solution. I've tried all kinds of whitening process over the years and this works the best IMO.

- clear glass bowl (not plastic!)
- aluminum foil (shiny side in, around outside of bowl)
- H/P
- Desk lamp
- 35 watt or higher U/V light bulb (most pets shops have these for reptile use)
- Leave sit in solution for 3-5 days with light running. Stir parts frequently to remove air bubbles. Top up H/P solution due to evaporation from U/V light heat.

HP, they are talking about RPM white parts, not AE white parts. RPM are a different material than AE parts. the RPM parts turn yellow.

JK Racing wrote:HP, they are talking about RPM white parts, not AE white parts. RPM are a different material than AE parts. the RPM parts turn yellow.

HI!... I know that. I'm talking about whitening parts in general. But I have not had any issues with RPM part whitening either.

I think RPM bulkeads should be hot pink. The 1990's called, and they want their bulkhead back...to the color they say it should be.