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I am trying to work myself up to drilling out a couple 10t rear 3 piece rims so they will fit on later rear axles and losi trucks which got me to thinking.. Is there any other 3 piece glueless rear wheels suitable for these later model trucks? I have some jrxt rims for the xt and 3 and a half sets of 10t rear rims for the associated trucks.. but did some newer model have some rims that would fit on? I guess you could call me cheap but I hate wasting money buying new rims once I wear out tires, gluing them really isn't hard although I do find it somewhat wastefull and messy.

Chris

clm wrote:...I hate wasting money buying new rims once I wear out tires, gluing them really isn't hard although I do find it somewhat wastefull and messy.

Chris

You're not cheap. I left r/c right before the glue on tires were introduced. Since I've came back, with all the hex, and pins, and offset variations, 2wd and 4wd and outdoor and indoor and wet and dry and clay compounds and insert stiffnesses, not to mention the 1/4" axles on the car I happen to dig....

But if I was in the business of selling rims, inserts and tires, and fancy CA glue for that matter, a three piece bolt or snap together 2.2 is WAY too heavy

What Y'ernat said is true...if it's for a racing application, 2.2" narrow crawler beadlock wheels are a tad heavy, but you gotta love the fact that there's no need for CA glue. Typical buggy 2.2" tires & foams fit perfectly, such as Proline Calibers or Losi LOSA7367R IFMAR pin tires. There's no worries about making a mess with glue or even screwing up the bead or foam balancing, just loosen the beadlock rings and adjust. Fortunately for me, I'm not racing and more interested in durability and bulletproofing than cutting weight, so narrow crawler wheels offer great selection, great-looking designs compared to the rather ho-hum choices for 2.2" buggy wheels, and much less fuss 'n' muss.

Heavy for racing I agree, but not to bad for running

Hmm that's a thought for the buggies, but what about the trucks I am wondering...

Chris

Copy that! Yeah I have this conspiracy theory that the guy that originally sat down at the drawing board with these in mind was thinking of an an actual bead locking mechanism:

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_33&products_id=573

But it got harpooned my management in the process when it was recognized how many less tires and wheels and inserts we would have to buy. So became this "rigid" wheel that is "smooth" (no back-side support fins to collect ALL the loose loamy dirt all over race tracks these days ) whoopee.

Coel' - do you have any links to builds or threads showing the particular beadlock wheels you like run with? I'm sure some are lighter than others

Y'ernat Al wrote:Coel' - do you have any links to builds or threads showing the particular beadlock wheels you like run with? I'm sure some are lighter than others

Probably the best recommendation is the narrow crawler set I used for the Barney Optima. The inners are plastic, they come in black, white, chrome, black chrome. I like the alloy beadlock rings because they only need 6 screws each. I've seen many kinds that need 8 or more; by the time you've assembled 8 rings on 4 wheels (like the 3Racing ones shown in my avatar pic that I considered using for the CYANide Optima), you're getting blisters forming.

The wheels below are Axial Rockster 2.2" narrow crawler beadlocks. They're 36mm wide, 12mm hex, I'm using Proline Caliber tires which fit perfectly. One important note: the hole is too big for typical 4mm threaded axles, but was easily solved by some HPI wheel spacers, I believe these ones but I'll have to confirm later tonight:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HPI-Racing-Wheel-Spacer-Set-4-101305-NIB-/390679601436?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af651a11c

CLM, what truck? T4? Get MIP CVDs, then use 10T 1/4" MIP axles and put 10T bearings in the T4 rear hubs...then done. No drilling. Fronts are a direct swap, no worries there.

Losi XXT

Unfortunately the axles won't just work in that truck

Chris

clm wrote:Losi XXT

Unfortunately the axles won't just work in that truck

Chris

I never thought about it much, but can't you just use a XXXT inboard conversion on the front and rear hex adapters? Then you can use any of the beadlock hex wheels.

I should just go look myself, since I have everything I just mentioned on my workbench. I'm tired of gluing my XXT tires as well.

clm wrote:I guess you could call me cheap but I hate wasting money buying new rims once I wear out tires,

No need to buy new rims when the tyres wear out, just unglue the tyres from the wheels and use them again. Acetone gets the tyres off pretty quickly, stick the wheels in a sealed container with a small cup containing acetone and leave for a day or two. The acetone vapour breaks down the tyre glue making it easy to peel the tyres off the wheels.

terry.sc wrote:

clm wrote:I guess you could call me cheap but I hate wasting money buying new rims once I wear out tires,

No need to buy new rims when the tyres wear out, just unglue the tyres from the wheels and use them again. Acetone gets the tyres off pretty quickly, stick the wheels in a sealed container with a small cup containing acetone and leave for a day or two. The acetone vapour breaks down the tyre glue making it easy to peel the tyres off the wheels.

Oh, that is a good tip. I have some wheels and tires that need to be separated...

I get wheels and tires apart by baking them at 400º for about 45 mins. Tires come right off the wheels and I'd say 90% of them are reuseable. I do wish 3 piece wheels would make a comeback, but as stated before, the wheel/glue companies will never let that happen.