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Hi guys,

I'm embarking on a few builds and I am looking for some tips to help the builds go smoothly

I am thinking there are lots of little cool things people do to help the builds go smoother/better, and ways to do things I haven't thought of - I remember RCCA used to have a "Pit Tips" section that always had great little insights on how to do things better.

I know there are lots of things in the setup thread, but I am looking more specifically to the building process. If there are other threads like this, please let me know - I tried my google fu but only got so far.

Thanks!

PS In particular I'm looking for:

1) a more graceful way to pop ball cups on without scratching them

2) any tips on how to build/rebuild shocks (e.g. I think I need to buy a good car stand with some shock building holes)

3) ways to keep from stripping screws

4) transmission tips (there are some good ones in the

5) maintenance/preventing corrosion and wear

6) how to best get the suspension flowing smoothly (e.g. do people smooth out the ball cups?)

7) a good way to keep things organized during the build, and clean after running!

1]take a pair needle nose pliers dip in the tool rubber coating,let dry.then you have the tool to pop off or tighten them up without scratching them or marking up.
2] you can make a car stand or tool stand out sheet of aluminum bend into a squared U shape then bend two edges in to stand on.Then drill the appropriate sized holes for the shock bodies to fit in.
3] use the appropriate tool for the job not just any tool.You want the one that fits the tightest in whatever taking out.
4] always clean the gears teeth and bearing.Bearings i use 3n1 oil soaking after soaking them in PB BLASTER AND SHAKING THEM UP SOME USE ULTRASONIC BATH WASHING TO CLEAN THEM ALSO.
5]SILICONE SPRAY works for kkeping rust away and easy clean up after,if storing in old shed id spray all metals with silicone.
6]I use old hinge pin in drill and run drill to prewear alittle the hinge pin holes.Same with ballcups use old ballstud in drill and run it 15 seconds each one then lube reassemble on to car.
7]ziplock bags are my best friends lol
hope this helps don

GREAT POST DON!

I do some of those myself. You are on the ball today huh bud!

Yep don nailed pretty much what I would recommend

the thing to keep in mind is that having the right tools is the first step. If your using the standard Allen wrenches and whatever screwdriver you can find, you will strip screws. A good quality #2 screwdriver is essential on aluminum screws. Use a pin or a xacto blade to clean the dirt out of screws before trying to loosen them.

I install ball cups by hand it only hurts a little bit! Lol. If the ball end is too tight (rare on associated ball ends) a light squeeze with pliers around the ball while installed will free it right up.

I use a .127 reamer on all my arms during assembly and check/remove any flashing. Suspension should fall on its own weight without shock and tire.

Ziplock is fine, I use them, but when working on a car I like a silverware organizer tray to keep parts separated.

If your going to be rebuilding often an ultrasonic cleaner is a perfect addition to your tools

Lastly, a harbor freight 20% off coupon is a necessity!

I started turning my shock cap bolts around so you have Allen Cap -> Small Nylon Washer -> shock bushing -> a locking 4-40 nut -> remaining thread and I put that onto the shock cap ahead of time (not to the tower). Should be visible if you click on this:
Cool benefits:

1) Gives you something to hold and you can fingertighten the caps on and off.

2) Lets you get the shock bushing tightness right and keep it there. I like a little wobble back and forth along the imaginary axis of the shock shaft. AE's shock bushing designs got rounder and rounder with time for a reason. If you overtighten these you fatten the bushing and that can be binding or at least introduce inconsistency from arm to arm (in the same family as the pin reaming machv mentioned).

3) Changing shock tower holes is just pulling a 4-40 nut off the back of the tower. It's like a modern shock stand offs, but with the vintage parts.

Very clever all around! Thanks guys!

Shoe Goo...Use it on the rear drive pins so you can take the wheels off and not worry about the pin falling out...Roll pins also...What really sucks is when e clips pop off...Put some shoe goo on them and it will help hold them in place...Shoe goo around body post holes will help strengthen that area and prevent cracks...IF you are running a full body ( short course , etc ) shoe goo inside the wheel wells will help strengthen that area also...Kepp it from cracking when you hit something...And remember Shoe Goo is your friend...

i was going to start something like this .. nice

as for #6 i use to use a little metal polishing compount on the cross pin with a drill to open the hole a little .. after cleaning them i would spray the cross pins with dry graphite and slid the pins in after dry .. free movement with no oil to atract dirt

This is what I use for all those pesky little screws.

And if you get mad...

askbob wrote:And if you get mad...

DAAAAMMMMNNNNN

I bet that's for tightening those diffs that refuse to stay tight

Chris

askbob wrote:And if you get mad...

Come on.... that's just ridiculous! If you can't get it done with 800 lb/ft you have no business working on rc's.

THUNDERSTRIKE1 wrote:1]take a pair needle nose pliers dip in the tool rubber coating,let dry.then you have the tool to pop off or tighten them up without scratching them or marking up.
2] you can make a car stand or tool stand out sheet of aluminum bend into a squared U shape then bend two edges in to stand on.Then drill the appropriate sized holes for the shock bodies to fit in.
3] use the appropriate tool for the job not just any tool.You want the one that fits the tightest in whatever taking out.
4] always clean the gears teeth and bearing.Bearings i use 3n1 oil soaking after soaking them in PB BLASTER AND SHAKING THEM UP SOME USE ULTRASONIC BATH WASHING TO CLEAN THEM ALSO.
5]SILICONE SPRAY works for kkeping rust away and easy clean up after,if storing in old shed id spray all metals with silicone.
6]I use old hinge pin in drill and run drill to prewear alittle the hinge pin holes.Same with ballcups use old ballstud in drill and run it 15 seconds each one then lube reassemble on to car.
7]ziplock bags are my best friends lol
hope this helps don

great list that id like to add to..
8] nut and bolt upgrades.. first thing i like to do is run all ball studs long enough to put on a nut to hold tight. i use 3 longer bolts on the chassis/steering so i can use nuts to hold chassis tight.(you dont need to do this with some bearing steering setups). always put a nut on the rear bolt of the rear arm mounts. last nut and bolt upgrade i can think of is change all non countersunk allen screws to the larger allen size (shock bolt size)

Hi,one interested thing for ball cups is the pliers used in RC helis,they are the the less agresive way to get a ball cup:

Lot of brand ,but the good heli brands are better for last longer ALIGN,LYNXX,etc


Regards




https://www.google.es/search?q=RC+heli+pliers&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj56NX2hJfLAhVC1BoKHZKyDiMQsAQIOA&biw=1440&bih=771#tbm=isch&q=Helicopter+Tool+Ball+Link+Plier