Assolink 10 - Bolink Invader Restoration (highwayracer)

[highwayracer]

hello All,

I just added a new car to my collection. From what I can see, it's pretty rare and has been the topic of discussion on this board before. The car is in excellent condition for it's age and I can't wait to start the rebuild. Here are some pics:

Supper wide stance with cab forward front suspension.

50 to 1 underdrive gear box.

Regards,
Roger

[GoMachV]

I like the other one u got better
Some people spend way too much time going out of their way to be different. This one would fit into my fantastically silly thread perfectly. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=32060

Oh, and don't forget to run it once before you restore it!

[highwayracer]

He are some extra parts that came in the box:

[highwayracer]

I like the other one u got better
Some people spend way too much time going out of their way to be different. This one would fit into my fantastically silly thread perfectly. http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=32060

Oh, and don't forget to run it once before you restore it!

I added it to your thread so others can be amazed

I can really appreciate when someone isn't afraid to modify their car to enhance the performance. For all we know, this may have been the early prototype for a puller. Either way, this this if UGGGGLLLLY!!!!.

It's actually in very good condition, but there are some critical pieces missing:
* correct rear axle - I doubt I'll find the correct one, so I'll have to fabricate one.
* lower shock mounts - Since I have the rears, I can easily make these since the parts are identical.
* rear hub (non-diff side) - I think the later bolink cars use this part, but I'd like to get one in white.
* upper rear motorplate brace - These are the fiberglass strips that connect the motor plates together. It's easy enough to make, but I don't know where to get the 1/16 green fiberglass. I can only find 1/8 in green.
* bolink motor - I think the period correct version is the standard Mabuchi 540 with the blue end bell.

Regards,
Roger

[GoMachV]

* correct rear axle - I doubt I'll find the correct one, so I'll have to fabricate one.
* lower shock mounts - Since I have the rears, I can easily make these since the parts are identical.
* rear hub (non-diff side) - I think the later bolink cars use this part, but I'd like to get one in white.
* upper rear motorplate brace - These are the fiberglass strips that connect the motor plates together. It's easy enough to make, but I don't know where to get the 1/16 green fiberglass. I can only find 1/8 in green.
* bolink motor - I think the period correct version is the standard Mabuchi 540 with the blue end bell.

Correct rear axle- mine was FUBAR so I took a full length one and cut it
Lower shock mounts- sorry can't help but easy to make
Rear hub- I have plenty in black but I also need a single white one
Upper brace- mine was missing one and I had a spare radio tray so I sacrificed it on the pin router. Ill see if I have more material left
Bolink motor- mine came with the blue endbell sealed can you speak of

[highwayracer]

I started cleaning the parts and I messed up . During re-assembly, I forgot how the Assolink 10 was put together...and I now have this monstrosity

I'm really happy how this one turned out. When I first looked at the auction, I didn't know what the Invader parts would look like. It was a total shot in the dark...and at best, I was hoping the parts would server as a good template for making new chassis components.

Since I don't have the independent rear axle, I'm using a standard bolink pan car axle with the diff and hubs. I'll be gathering parts at the local hardware stored so I can fabricate another.

There were 2 extra holes drilled on the radio plate, but they were done very well. I'll be installing some servo blocks and a servo.

Bottom of the chassis looks perfect. No restoration needed. The tires are also in very good condition. Rears have very little wear...and the fronts look new.

Finally, I'm really happy with the body. It was painted orange on the outside I sprayed it with nitro fuel and it bubbled up in a few seconds. I'm glad they previous owner didn't use Pactra or it may have been lost. The cut lines were really bad, but cleaned up well.

Before:

After:

I just need to gather up a handful of parts and I can call this one done.

Regards,
Roger

[GoMachV]

Wow, that turned out great!!!!

I have enough green material left, I can use mine as a template and cut a couple out for you

[highwayracer]

Thank you so much...I really appreciate all of the help you've given me with this car.

[RC10resto]

Wow, that is some nice work

[GoMachV]

Once I found out someone else wanted it I took it off my watch list glad to see it made it to a good home. I'm happy to help any way I can.

I can't help with the bolink motor but I do have a few new in package leisure motors from the same timeframe if you are just going for period correct

[j-sou]

Looking great! I was wondering who won that auction

[GoMachV]

Just need you to pm me an address and maybe a file to clean them up when you get them. They aren't as wavy as they look but very hard to cut small stuff on the pin router without bolting them down.

[highwayracer]

Looking great! I was wondering who won that auction

Yup...I was the "winner" But I wasn't sure if was a "win" until I saw the condition of the car. I've been the high bidder on an auction but was actually the loser when I saw the condition of the car.

Luckily, I only needed the plastic parts because if the car was really bad, I could always use the fiberglass as a template to make parts. A few years ago, Steve Rule was selling his stuff on ebay, and I bought several pairs of his shocks. If these were bad, I had those covered as well. The fact that the car was in really good condition (and the body was salvaged), made this restoration very enjoyable.

[highwayracer]

When I received the car, it had a "custom" solid axle...but I needed the 2 piece version to allow the rear independent suspension to work. I looked at a few different options including the "spring" and "dog bone" versions, but it's nearly impossible to find those.

I started thinking and I came up with an alternative solution that only cost me $1.36 The parts were purchased from the local "True Value" hobby shop

I went to the bolt section and found one with a 1/4 inch diameter. I then found the correct lengths and cut off the bolt heads. The u-joint came from an older Tamiya car. I had to drill it out, but it works great. I still need to cut the threaded end to the appropriate length, but it should look pretty nice after that.

A BIG THANK YOU to Jeff (gomachv) for fabricating the upper motor mount brace (made from original green bolink fiberglass)!!!!

I still need to fabricate the front shock mounts, but it's coming together better than I expected.

Regards,
Roger

[GoMachV]

Looking good!