RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hi all,

Having raced almost every production (and some not production) 2wd cars this year, and not finding one that suits me I have decided I might build up a black tub team RC10 car and try racing that next year in our regionals and maybe even Nationals!

What do you think guys? I know the stealth will handle anything I can throw at it (6.5 or 5.5 brushless), but is it possible to still get some CVD's for one?

I'll get some Fibrelight carbon towers, put threaded shocks on it and generally trick it up.

Just an idea at the moment.

G

1/4" axles..............

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAV59&P=SM

3/16" axles.............

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAX37&P=SM

Will the 3/16" axles allow me to use the same bearings as B4 and B2/3 wheels?

Cheers,

G

it depends on what hub carrier you'd be using. if you use a standard buggy carrier, they need to be flanged bearings. 3/16" id x 3/8" od flanged.

if you'd use the carrier from a 10t, you can use 3/16" id x 3/8" od plain bearings.

Cheers scr8p, is the geometry any different between the two hub carriers?

G

Northy2 wrote:Will the 3/16" axles allow me to use the same bearings as B4 and B2/3 wheels?

Cheers,

G

B3 wheels will fit straight on with the 3/16" axles, but to fit B4 wheels needs a bit more work and longer arms.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1683

Is the truck rear hub part number: #7365?
Then use the std 3 degree inner pivots, B2 rear CVD's....?

I'm gonna have to build this bad boy even if I don't race it

G

yup, the 7365 carriers. the geometry should stay the same, too.

Right, I'm going to build a current day, race worthy tub RC10, and see if I can put it in the A in our regionals

G

Northy2 wrote:Right, I'm going to build a current day, race worthy tub RC10, and see if I can put it in the A in our regionals

G

And I'm defo going to come and watch that I'll bring some $30 beaters along and if you get your tub in the A I will sell them as the next new big thing

Dump the tub for a good graphite plate and stealth tranny and you'll be competitive. You will also most likely want a front sway bar as the rear will not steer enough with modern tires.

Bob

Why will the tub not be competitive?
Why will it steer more with a front sway bar?

G

The tub cars are ok, they are just heavier. If you've raced an rc10 you will notice that the front end already dives really hard into turns with alot of front body roll. This is mainly due to having shorter front arms in comparison to modern off roaders and most likely will affect handling on high speed sweepers. No big deal though, it is what it is, LOL. Its all about setup. For the front end, thicker oil, smaller hole pistons or a swaybar will help get your rc10 pointed in the right direction along with the proper tires ofcourse

The tub is the better choice, they always ran better than the graphite chassis on our UK tracks. The anti roll bar will take away steering and was never used over here. I'll see if I can find some of Dreschers setups for you.

Cheers Terry that would be great.

I heard that the graphite chassis was too flexible. I'm not keen on sway/anti roll bars.....

G